Broke A Piston Wrist Pin.

[keltalon]

Car is back at home! !

Don't forget that it has 653 daily driven ponies under the hood!!

 

[We're on Boost]

I will be replacing my old 550hp floor mats in a few days with new numbers engraved.

Now I've seen almost everything

 

[ceedawg]

The rims look dope man!!! 17x9 would be great for me in those.

 

[keltalon]

The rims look dope man!!! 17x9 would be great for me in those.

Thanks.

 

[keltalon]

Went to the track over the weekend import face off Montgomery Alabama. I got to make several passes. The car literally spun down the entire track. At the end of the first pass clutch went out I drove the car 2 hours to the track and made 4 passes with each pass the clutch progressively was slipping more and more. I stop racing and drove the car 2hrs home. This morning on my way to the shop the clutch slipped just going up a steep hill. So out come the clutch. I am considering this one which is Kevlar for street use. It seems to be getting great feedback.

Clutch Master Stage 6 Twin Disc FX600



"Clutch Masters Ultra High Performance Twin Disc clutch kits are one of the finest clutches on the market. They have 300-600% more holding capacity than stock. They are found in more 8-9 second drag racing imports than any other brand, yet still maintain a smooth operation that is ideal for a high performance street car. The approximate weight of the clutch is 16lbs, which is nearly 50% of the weight of your factory clutch. The Kit also comes complete with a 6061-T6 aluminum flywheel.
Bonded Organic / Kevlar mix for street applications. This clutch is rated for cars with approximately 600 horsepower. This assembly is designed to provide extended life and superior holding power for cars with high power upgrades and/or more enthusiastic driving in abusive conditions. This is a high performance clutch for the street that was designed to have all the benefits of a race clutch."


Best time on first pass 12.5@ 127mph spinning 1 and 2 slipping clutch 3rd never went into 4th street kumho xs 25psi! the objective was to see what the car would run on low boost and gradually turn up the boost but that plan was abandon after the first pass Okay stay tuned

 

[ceedawg]

Wow Kels I thought or was hoping the South Bend clutch would do the trick but I guess with all that torque the twin disk is needed. A Lil disappointed and surprised especially since I have a new south bend clutch already installed and not broke in yet. I hope to have better results with mine and less awhp. I am hoping she'll hold up to the max 550awhp I hope to put out. The South Bend clutch ain't cheap. Keep us posted this is all good to know.

 

[keltalon]

Wow Kels I thought or was hoping the South Bend clutch would do the trick but I guess with all that torque the twin disk is needed. A Lil disappointed and surprised especially since I have a new south bend clutch already installed and not broke in yet. I hope to have better results with mine and less awhp. I am hoping she'll hold up to the max 550awhp I hope to put out. The South Bend clutch ain't cheap. Keep us posted this is all good to know.

The South Bend is rated at 500lbs tq according to tmz website as most clutches are rated by holding torque and not horsepower. Southbend has been superb for me the last two years. It held fine @553 whp 488lbs tq for 2 yrs no complaints from me what so ever. You have to understand i am making almost 600lbs tq and that even in the 3rd gear dyno video the clutch was slipping badly way out of the clutch power range that was several weeks ago the clutch was bound to go at some point at my power levels and this I knew but hate it went at the track. But stay tuned this is just a minor set back for the time being and further more It also gives me time while the tyranny is out to fix my speedometer which has gotten on my last nerve being broken. To me its one more step closer to perfection and will be proven at the track soon and will close a chapter the doubters has been trying to keep open for a while

 

[ceedawg]

The South Bend is rated at 500lbs tq according to tmz website as most clutches are rated by holding torque and not horsepower. Southbend has been superb for me the last two years. It held fine @553 whp 488lbs tq for 2 yrs no complaints from me what so ever. You have to understand i am making almost 600lbs tq and that even in the 3rd gear dyno video the clutch was slipping badly way out of the clutch power range that was several weeks ago the clutch was bound to go at some point at my power levels and this I knew but hate it went at the track. But stay tuned this is just a minor set back for the time being and further more It also gives me time while the tyranny is out to fix my speedometer which has gotten on my last nerve being broken. To me its one more step closer to perfection and will be proven at the track soon and will close a chapter the doubters has been trying to keep open for a while

Gotcha. Guess I misunderstood then. 2yrs is a long time and I know you have driven the beast hard every chance you had. I have always heard great stuff about the SouthBend clutch and based on your explanation I am glad you cleared that up for me. Tim does mention that torque is the key when it comes to clutches. Yes you are correct!

Guess I am good to go with the South Bend clutch.

Looking forward to more updates especially once you get the clutch in and rerun her at the track!!!!!!

 

[We're on Boost]

You know, re these clutches, I am just glad that there are still aftermarket people who are interested in making great new stuff for these old cars, even though their sales volume can't be very high. I read a comment in evom a few days ago by a moderator who was already getting the willies that aftermarket support for the evo 8 and 9 might soon be going down-hill. I'm not so sure it will. The new high-performance cars keep getting more fru-fru all the time. These old ones are a lot more primal, even when they are nearly stock. My 1990 Toyota for example - I love that thing. The only mods it has are KYB shocks, exhaust, nice wide wheels and good tires. I hope the good stuff for the older cars keeps going for a loooong time.

 

[keltalon]

You know, re these clutches, I am just glad that there are still aftermarket people who are interested in making great new stuff for these old cars, even though their sales volume can't be very high. I read a comment in evom a few days ago by a moderator who was already getting the willies that aftermarket support for the evo 8 and 9 might soon be going down-hill. I'm not so sure it will. The new high-performance cars keep getting more fru-fru all the time. These old ones are a lot more primal, even when they are nearly stock. My 1990 Toyota for example - I love that thing. The only mods it has are KYB shocks, exhaust, nice wide wheels and good tires. I hope the good stuff for the older cars keeps going for a loooong time.

I hear what you are saying. while my car was being painted I went to the dealer for a few items I needed and to my surprise they were no longer available. One was the side skirt door molding, the front inner fender liner, which is abundant for the gs model, the original front emblem and the Mitsubishi sticker decal for the rear trunk. Yeah these cars are becoming primitive very fast.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sweet kel yes those parts are if you want something buy it now or it could be gone tomorrow.

 

[keltalon]

My latest purchase being very familiar as a craftsman how well the brass filter works I knew mishimoto was on to some to something I have to give them props for this one very nice baffled catch can! You can't see it in the pictures clearly but the metal piece held in the can is several inches from the bottom to ensure that the oil stays in the can don't won't any kind of oil residue in my intake pipe. very very nice!

 

[keltalon]

Sweet kel yes those parts are if you want something buy it now or it could be gone tomorrow.

Yeah I think the old 2g is on its last leg I am looking locally for two spare 2g to purchase for part cars

 

[killercolt]

What happen to the driver side door molding? Did you get enough paint to do the engine bay.

I don't see any Lambo doors so this is a fail. Lol.

 

[keltalon]

What happen to the driver side door molding? Did you get enough paint to do the engine bay.

I don't see any Lambo doors so this is a fail. Lol.

killa I have searched and visited every junkyard and can't seem to find that part. My pops said when I find one he will paint it I sm still looking. Lol

 

[92AWDHX40]

Nice catch can, I see a few around here.

 

[We're on Boost]

KT, what you got for a boost controller in that dyno run you did a couple months ago with the PTE6266?

 

[keltalon]

KT, what you got for a boost controller in that dyno run you did a couple months ago with the PTE6266?

http://nxsmotorsports.com/content/manual-boost-controller-signature-series

 

[We're on Boost]

Do you have a log or a recollection of what boost you were actually hitting right at the torque peak around 110 mph on your dyno chart - Woops, I'm seeing rpm there now, around 5500 rpm? Gee do you think I could be a mph to rpm savant?

 

[keltalon]

Do you have a log or a recollection of what boost you were actually hitting right at the torque peak around 110 mph on your dyno chart - Woops, I'm seeing rpm there now, around 5500 rpm? Gee do you think I could be a mph to rpm savant?

I can't upload the log but here is a shot st 4800 rpm

 

[keltalon]

Peak horsepower shot

 

[We're on Boost]

Oh, well, if boost is that upper green curve then there is no boost spike at all. I thought there might be a boost spike where that mountain of torque happens! But it's just a nice clean ramp up to about 34 psi, then it levels off, and it's making the mountain without a boost spike.

I did find the 32 psi log you posted in September and looked at the omni 4-bar curve in that one - similar deal, except there I can see the BoostEst, which gives a number quite a bit higher than the 4-bar around torque peak. Does BoostEst get fooled when VE is really high or something?

BTW thanks for mentioning the Jay Racing fuel pump several times. I finally paid attention and took a look. Looks good.

 

[keltalon]

Oh, well, if boost is that upper green curve then there is no boost spike at all. I thought there might be a boost spike where that mountain of torque happens! But it's just a nice clean ramp up to about 34 psi, then it levels off, and it's making the mountain without a boost spike.

Does BoostEst get fooled when VE is really high or something?

BTW thanks for mentioning the Jay Racing fuel pump several times. I finally paid attention and took a look. Looks good.

Yeah I was asked about spiking in a pm didn't understand the question though but after doing a little research I found that its done by some guys who try to cheat the dyno torque numbers for the forums wow shame shame shame on them I am still figuring out the link v3 and can't really comment on why boost estimate is not dialed in or matches actual boost. I mention this again this 653 dyno pull was done right off the street with a butt street tune in 3rd gear and was a tad bit lean when I did the 4th gear pull because third wasn't hooking up on the dyno. I didn't tune the speed density cells in 4th if I had had the time to tune 4th gear I really would have made more power. I am in the process of purchasing an additional jay racing pump alone with a dual hanger and will be hitting the dyno back up in January for one more dyno queen run 700whp cyclone is my goal

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Spiking boost, especially on a smaller turbo.. is not done to cheat a dyno.. its done to make more torque.

I did this with my 14B and S16G. Small turbos, with likewise small turbines and housings. They run out of steam early so when you are trying to make power you make it give all its got where it can do so.

You can spike a 14B reliably into the mid 20s for boost (provided you oil it properly) but no matter what as both engine demand catch up and the turbine approaches its flow capacity boost will fall off. So I used to see 25psi peak, falling to upper teens by 7k rpm.

Because of the way horsepower is related to torque mathematically you can't really "cheat" anything this way. If you make for example 325wtq @ 5000rpm on the spike and it falls to 250 by 7000 as the turbo falls on its face, your power figures over that period will look like this:

310whp/325wtq @ 5000RPM
325whp/287wtq @ 6000RPM
333whp/250wtq @ 7000RPM

Even then, what's there to cheat? Your engine still produced those figures, and for most people the mid-range grunt is the most fun. You're not a big fan of high engine speed either, so I would think this approach would be right up your alley, no?

 

[keltalon]

You're not a big fan of high engine speed either, so I would think this approach would be right up your alley, no?

Well I don't prefer to spike and after reading your post I am even more impressed with the power curve of my combination the dyno operator said it best he "has never seen a 4 cylinder make that much whp with very little effort". I think he ment not having to rev to the moon! I drove in with 650 and drove out with 650 in this build thread the car is what it is!