2G Brembo brackets

[SJDSM]

Hello guys,

I know there are lot of threads about that but I don't find response...
I've brembo evo 5-9 calipers and I would to know if there are any brackets bolt on, with no need to grinding any parts (calipers, knuckles).
I found these one on the web, someone know these brackets ?

 

[jakelandry]

A guy made those for himself. They’re not a production part and require a machined surface on the back side of the knuckle. I utilized the same bracket design that I drew up myself for a 14” ctsv setup. Unfortunately I can’t offer much help since all my experience is relative to fitting ctsv brakes but should the need arise I do probably know more than most people about those.

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[SJDSM]

Thank's for reply guy!
you think it's possible to homemade design brackets fits without grinding anything ?

 

[dsmcrzy]

It’s honestly worth the money to get the galant front knuckles if you are doing the evo 5-9 brembos. Makes the whole thing a bolt on affair. This is the route I took.

 

[SJDSM]

Yes I know but the good version of galant knuckles are rare and also I'll need speed sensors include with knuckles so more most rare in good condition ..
The oem number are MR369425 & MR369426 that's right ?

 

[jakelandry]

Thank's for reply guy!
you think it's possible to homemade design brackets fits without grinding anything ?

I doubt it. I know there is a bracket on existence that makes it “bolt on”. It would depend on the diameter rotor, offset, and brake design. Like I said I did all my experimentation with ctsv which are a different casting with a 130mm bolt hole spacing vs the evo 157. I dropped the 157 into cad briefly earlier and you can’t just “rotate” the bolt circle about the same “bolt circle” as factory without hitting the knuckle at the ball joint or the top. It would have to be on a larger bolt circle or the pad would have to not contact the rotor “parallel”. In short, with the information I had handy when I put it in cad earlier, it still would likely hit somewhere on the knuckle. There is a thread on here all about the one “bolt on” bracket if you briefly search.

 

[josh408]

Maybe @ec17pse would have some Galant knuckles with sensors for sale. Worth a shot

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Maybe @ec17pse would have some Galant knuckles with sensors for sale. Worth a shot

Currently ran out but i am hoping to get more stock soon.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Fabricating this up is not hars but you have to be precise as a few mm off and you can introduce pad wear and tapering or binding if your not careful

 

[Kryndon]

It's not really worth to run this setup in particular. The machining work alone would be almost as expensive as just going to a scrap yard and getting a set of Galant knuckles (I've been to Paris, I've seen Galants...). Hit up Bobby (ec17pse) when he gets some in stock, or alternatively if you find a set of 1G 3000GT 4 pot calipers, I can offer you an already made set of brackets which work perfect with your stock DSM knuckles. There's almost no difference between the two caliper setups.

 

[THEIFNDNIGHT]

Hello guys,

I know there are lot of threads about that but I don't find response...
I've brembo evo 5-9 calipers and I would to know if there are any brackets bolt on, with no need to grinding any parts (calipers, knuckles).
I found these one on the web, someone know these brackets ?

Hello these brackets will save you a few hundred $$ and its a great choice to mount your brembos attached are the brackets that bolt-on with zero grinding or modifications done

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[jakelandry]

Hello these brackets will save you a few hundred $$ and its a great choice to mount your brembos attached are the brackets that bolt-on with zero grinding or modifications done

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FWIW, This is what I was speaking of about the bolt circles in my post above. Essentially think of it as you have the factory caliper bolted up. You undo one bolt and pivot the caliper about the side that is still fixed. You move the top hole 1/2” to the side and “re bolt it down”. I assume you can understand that the brake pad no longer clamps the caliper in a radial manner. After designing a few different ctsv brackets, I believe this may be what the bolt on evo brackets do.

The proper way would to be to place the rotor and pad locations where you want them in cad then fill in the blanks. The problem is that when you put the in the correct locations you end up with a misalignment of bolt holes which is why you need the brackets. In order for the brackets to function properly, they have to rotate about the rotor’s radius. In order to rotate them you would hit the knuckle and they wouldn’t work. That is why I believe these brackets move one side out more rather than rotate about the evo rotor OD.

Edit: I quickly drew this diagram to better explain the concept I’ve been trying to communicate. Blue line is knuckle. Red circles are factory bolt location. White bracket/ circles is where mounts need to be. On the left you can see the brake pad is correctly oriented with the rotor, but the top bolt hole hits the knuckle. On the right would clear everything but you can see how the pad would contact the rotor. This is all speculation relative to evo calipers but I can’t see them being much different than ctsv brakes in terms of where the brackets would contact the knuckle.

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[THEIFNDNIGHT]

These will fit both 1G and 2G Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon or Plymouth Laser. These brackets will work with EVO 8, EVO 9 and EVO X brakes. You can "clock them up or down" with these brackets! If you use the EVO X Brembos you have to use the EVO X rotors. The brackets will come with the hardware that is needed to mount the brackets to the car (see pictures, colors of bolts may change). These brackets are laser cut so they will fit like a glove.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/di...ocked-up-picture-heavy.479548/#post-153431014

 

[SJDSM]

Thank's all for yours reply.
I'am more in reflexion...

 

[SJDSM]

FWIW, This is what I was speaking of about the bolt circles in my post above. Essentially think of it as you have the factory caliper bolted up. You undo one bolt and pivot the caliper about the side that is still fixed. You move the top hole 1/2” to the side and “re bolt it down”. I assume you can understand that the brake pad no longer clamps the caliper in a radial manner. After designing a few different ctsv brackets, I believe this may be what the bolt on evo brackets do.

The proper way would to be to place the rotor and pad locations where you want them in cad then fill in the blanks. The problem is that when you put the in the correct locations you end up with a misalignment of bolt holes which is why you need the brackets. In order for the brackets to function properly, they have to rotate about the rotor’s radius. In order to rotate them you would hit the knuckle and they wouldn’t work. That is why I believe these brackets move one side out more rather than rotate about the evo rotor OD.

Edit: I quickly drew this diagram to better explain the concept I’ve been trying to communicate. Blue line is knuckle. Red circles are factory bolt location. White bracket/ circles is where mounts need to be. On the left you can see the brake pad is correctly oriented with the rotor, but the top bolt hole hits the knuckle. On the right would clear everything but you can see how the pad would contact the rotor. This is all speculation relative to evo calipers but I can’t see them being much different than ctsv brakes in terms of where the brackets would contact the knuckle.

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Ok I understand the diagram, I realized that with brackets I will have to machine and grind my calipers and knuckles, but I don't understand why the new holes are shifted upward compared to the knuckles holes, so calipers are not aligned in a vertical position but shifted up?
it is not possible to build brackets with the holes correctly located as on a gallant knuckles, to have calipers in perfect vertical position ??

Edit: with your diagram to explain my question, in green are calipers, on the right: caliper is shifted upward and on the left caliper is perfectly vertical aligned

 

[SJDSM]

Three pictures to show difference of position calipers
1 normal vertical position (galant knuckles I think)
2 upward position
3 downward position (brackets are 180° turned)

 

[pauleyman]

FWIW, This is what I was speaking of about the bolt circles in my post above. Essentially think of it as you have the factory caliper bolted up. You undo one bolt and pivot the caliper about the side that is still fixed. You move the top hole 1/2” to the side and “re bolt it down”. I assume you can understand that the brake pad no longer clamps the caliper in a radial manner. After designing a few different ctsv brackets, I believe this may be what the bolt on evo brackets do.

The proper way would to be to place the rotor and pad locations where you want them in cad then fill in the blanks. The problem is that when you put the in the correct locations you end up with a misalignment of bolt holes which is why you need the brackets. In order for the brackets to function properly, they have to rotate about the rotor’s radius. In order to rotate them you would hit the knuckle and they wouldn’t work. That is why I believe these brackets move one side out more rather than rotate about the evo rotor OD.

Edit: I quickly drew this diagram to better explain the concept I’ve been trying to communicate. Blue line is knuckle. Red circles are factory bolt location. White bracket/ circles is where mounts need to be. On the left you can see the brake pad is correctly oriented with the rotor, but the top bolt hole hits the knuckle. On the right would clear everything but you can see how the pad would contact the rotor. This is all speculation relative to evo calipers but I can’t see them being much different than ctsv brakes in terms of where the brackets would contact the knuckle.

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Excellent explanation. I have seen these setups and from the casual view most do appear to sit offset relative to the radial line. The pictures above don't look like that to me.
Speaking from an engineering perspective i cant wrap my head around why it would matter very much as long as the entire pad touched the rotor. I can think of a few non symmetrical stresses. the pads are symmetrical and larger towards the outside typically but would a degree or two make a big difference?

 

[jakelandry]

Three pictures to show difference of position calipers
1 normal vertical position (galant knuckles I think)
2 upward position
3 downward position (brackets are 180° turned)

So i may have added some confusion. I have shown two different brackets in this thread. My original pictures were of a bracket that bolts to the two corresponding wheel bearing bolts. With this method you have to machine the knuckle flat, like the other guys thread showed, and cut off the existing bolt holes where the factory calipers bolt to. If you do this, you can have a vertical caliper just like the galant knuckles provide.

The autocad image where i explained the scenario above is a different bracket, similar to the one that is a "bolt on". I designed a few variations of this one first and finally just decided it was a waste of time WITH CTSV CALIPERS. If you look in my pictures posted earlier you can even see where i had to remove a lot of material from the caliper and the knuckle.

Excellent explanation. I have seen these setups and from the casual view most do appear to sit offset relative to the radial line. The pictures above don't look like that to me.
Speaking from an engineering perspective i cant wrap my head around why it would matter very much as long as the entire pad touched the rotor. I can think of a few non symmetrical stresses. the pads are symmetrical and larger towards the outside typically but would a degree or two make a big difference?

Just from my experience I would say they probably do sit off-axis. It was literally impossible to do the CTSV calipers without grinding the knuckle or cocking them like pictured above. I have ZERO experience with any negative side effects from them being installed like that but recall reading about them in the past. It seems like they were more severe than uneven pad wear but i'd be lying if I said I knew.

 

[pauleyman]

So i may have added some confusion. I have shown two different brackets in this thread. My original pictures were of a bracket that bolts to the two corresponding wheel bearing bolts. With this method you have to machine the knuckle flat, like the other guys thread showed, and cut off the existing bolt holes where the factory calipers bolt to. If you do this, you can have a vertical caliper just like the galant knuckles provide.

The autocad image where i explained the scenario above is a different bracket, similar to the one that is a "bolt on". I designed a few variations of this one first and finally just decided it was a waste of time WITH CTSV CALIPERS. If you look in my pictures posted earlier you can even see where i had to remove a lot of material from the caliper and the knuckle.



Just from my experience I would say they probably do sit off-axis. It was literally impossible to do the CTSV calipers without grinding the knuckle or cocking them like pictured above. I have ZERO experience with any negative side effects from them being installed like that but recall reading about them in the past. It seems like they were more severe than uneven pad wear but i'd be lying if I said I knew.

Good enough. maybe somebody eles would chime in. Personally I like clean solutions so I would go with the galant knuckled designed and engineered for these brakes. It makes the most sense even if we don't have the design criteria behind it. I've seen a bracket break first hand and I'm just not a fan of adapting stuff like this. To each his own I suppose. Brakes aren't something I'm comfortable with design.

 

[SJDSM]

So i may have added some confusion. I have shown two different brackets in this thread. My original pictures were of a bracket that bolts to the two corresponding wheel bearing bolts. With this method you have to machine the knuckle flat, like the other guys thread showed, and cut off the existing bolt holes where the factory calipers bolt to. If you do this, you can have a vertical caliper just like the galant knuckles provide.

The autocad image where i explained the scenario above is a different bracket, similar to the one that is a "bolt on". I designed a few variations of this one first and finally just decided it was a waste of time WITH CTSV CALIPERS. If you look in my pictures posted earlier you can even see where i had to remove a lot of material from the caliper and the knuckle.



Just from my experience I would say they probably do sit off-axis. It was literally impossible to do the CTSV calipers without grinding the knuckle or cocking them like pictured above. I have ZERO experience with any negative side effects from them being installed like that but recall reading about them in the past. It seems like they were more severe than uneven pad wear but i'd be lying if I said I knew.

Ok thank you for reply