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Boost leaks

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gsxeclipse97

15+ Year Contributor
1,255
2
Nov 7, 2004
Cedar Park, Texas
Ok so I had major vacuum leaks on my car that I fixed today. The car drove alot well, it stayed on which I was at idle which it had not been doing recently.. So now I'm trying to find the next place to search for leaks. I'll do the injector seals tomorrow. But when I hooked up my tester and pressurized the system it evetually blew the tester off. I would say that was a good sign but the car still runs like it did before but stays on now like I said ealier. Sugestions welcomed.
 
You need to elaborate a bit on the issue your seeing bud, just because you cleaned up the boost leaks you had doesn't mean there wasn't something else wrong. If the tester blows off the intake side of the turbo then just take the coupler off of the pipe next inline, which for you would be the pipe just after your j-pipe, and connect the tester up to it. Intercooler piping typically has a bead around it so when you build boost the clamps have something to hold onto, the compressor housing on the turbo has no bead around it since its a vacuum on that side of the turbo unless of course your doing a BLT.

:dsm:
 
I started doing the testing at the tb elbow and found the three major leaks there. I got those all fixed. The only other places i think that leaks could be happening now are between the turbo and j pipe because i didnt connect those parts.. that was done by the shop that last worked on the car. and the entrance to the IC everything else tested good the farther back i went so tomorrow im going to test those places.

right now the car still feels like its pulling timing whenever you hit boost. and at other times the car feels okay until you get above about 5psi then it acts crazy. Now I wish i could find the source of the main issue cause every day i fix something and it get alot better. but i still want my 2g head back.
 
yesterday, i was driving on highway and i wanted to boost a little bit........ so i pushed my dsm to 4500rpm and boost gauge shows 10 psi..... i stabilize the throtle a 4500rpm...... and suddenly the pressure decreases to 0 psi.... does that mean my dsm has a boost leak????
 
You need to fix all you boost/vac leaks before we can start pointing out possible issues. The boost leaks will cause all sorts of crazy issues and will make it run good and bad at different times. Finish up the boost leak tests and then let us know how it runs/drives.

YUKIZ:

if your boosting 10lbs and then it drops off under the same load and gear your in you most likely have a toasted turbo. If the car still runs fine and doesnt feel like its hitting a brick wall (fuel cut) or running poorly (boost/vac leak) then your turbo is just oscilating and not creating boost. I may be wrong but if it were anything other then the turbo (like a boost leak) you woold have issues with driveability and it would be running like Pooo.
 
I was reading someone elses post about problems they were having.. About the intake manifold gasket and that will be the last place I have to check tomorrow. Everything else is ok. Nothing from the bov I really hope it's not that though. But it may be cause the car runs best when it's really warmed up.

Alright.. I worked on the car today for 10hrs straight.. seriously from 12 to 10 there was a leak coming from the j-pipe and the turbo so i took it off and redid gasket that on there.. it has a metal gasket with silicone on both sides. Also i noticed that there was a bolt missing from the o2 housing and there was a gap so it closed the gap on there. I also replaced the shifter cables and for anyone having trouble removing the pins on there I used 2 wrenches. One as a wedge and the other to pry them up.. came off really easily. But I went for a road test after all of my work. Car drove much much much better. But... always a but between 4&9 psi very rough!! 10-15 flew like a rocket.. but overall still think there is a leak somewhere and after my 10hrs of working on the car I have run out of places that i could think of there one being..

but since that metal gasket is there do I need to put the sillicone on there or does that just make for more problems?
 
If your trying to use a gasket at the j-pipe remove it all together and grab some Permatex 81158 Black RTV Silicone from AutoZone and smear it on the compressor outlet. The theory here is to use ONLY the amount necessary, its not a "bigger the blob the better the job." Imagine it like making a PB&J sandwich, when you put on too much jelly and mash the bread together it mushes out the sides. The same thing applies here, too much RTV and it mushes out the sides and on the inside of the j-pipe as well so a nice thin layer will do.

:dsm:
 
Okay.. all boost leaks have been fixed and still feels like timing is being pulled.. its much smoother now but, its not nearly as fast as it should be. I hit 15psi like nothing but doesn't seem to just. want to accelerate the way these car are designed.

So on this list of things i have done in the last week

fixed boost leaks
fixed exhaust leaks
New spark plugs.
(new shifter cables)

the first 3 helped the car idle normal and drive more smoothly but power is a no go.
 
for emission stuff but. I do not have any of that anymore and, I have noticed a small misfire when the car is at idle. It didn't do that before. My cel light doesn't work so I have to take i to be read every now and then.

P0141

P1400

P0443

P0403

P0136
 
Last edited:
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