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Boost leak from biss scew [Merged 8-8]

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GeneralChaos

15+ Year Contributor
366
1
Feb 13, 2004
Belleville, Michigan
Searched and cant find anything.

When I was performing my leakdown last time a ton of air was coming out of the BISS screw when I sprayed soapy water on it, as well as a part of the gasket.

Is this screw supposed to just unscrew out? or does the throttle body need to be taken apart? We couldnt get it out and I remember reading people replacing an o-ring in there somewhere.

Just trying to get all the materials and knowledge I need for this weekend.
 
I know this is a big time newbie question, but i have been reading in other threads and reading about the BISS Screw, and i would like to know where the BISS Screw is located on the throttle body.
 
Be careful when removing the screw. Recently, a member had to deal with the head of the screw stripping, making it impossible to either screw in or remove. Some cars have plastic ones, while it seems other cars have metal ones. Either way, be careful.

I just replaced my BISS and o-ring and was amazed at how flattened and shrunken the old o-ring was.
 
Question... when replacing the screw and o ring, you can just take the screw right out right? Just turing the screw with out grounding it or what ever will have no effect correct? I wouldnt have to readjust the ide afterwards?
 
Of course turning the screw has an effect, it changes the amount of air bypassing the throttle butterfly regardless of the terminals being grounded.

You will have to set the Base Idle Speed after changing the o-ring. I can never keep straight which 2G have the timing check connector or if their dataloggers will log ISC steps I can't describe the procedure.

What grounding the timing check and DLC mode pins do is cause the ECU to position the ISC to its default position so that you can adjust the BISS to get the engine to idle at the programmed speed. Once the connectors are ungrounded the ECU will move the ISC in and out to maintail that idle speed so another way of setting the BISS is by adjusting it until the ISC steps are right without ant pins grounded.

Steve
 
Well, I tested my system at 25psi, it gradually drops to 0 withing 15-20 seconds, which is not to bad i guess, but heres my problem, i have air comming from my biss screw and another unknown area around underneath my t/b area, anyone know of some common things i can start replacing.?
 
The leak at the BISS is likely just the o-ring that seals the head of the screw against the screw's bore.

The leak underneath the throttle body, if that is where it is coming from, is either going to be the gasket in between the lower and upper sections of the throttle body or the ISC gasket. This lower section is attached to the top piece with about 4-5 phillips-head screws, and the rubber gasket in between the two seals off the various chambers from one another. It could also be the ISC gasket. This, like the BISS, is an o-ring gasket but much larger.
 
Like srumel said, the biss leak is just a o-ring. Replace it with a new one.

And also, the leak around the TB can be two things. Either A. TB gasket, like srumel said or B. Throttle body shaft seals. My guess would be B.
 
Like srumel said, the biss leak is just a o-ring. Replace it with a new one.

And also, the leak around the TB can be two things. Either A. TB gasket, like srumel said or B. Throttle body shaft seals. My guess would be B.

Agreed.:thumb:

C. EVAP system is bad about leaking as well. might check it out while your in there.
 
Changing the shaft seals is abit of work. So if you want to verify if their the cause before hand, do a boost leak test like normal but when you listen to the leaks around the TB, move the throttle plate back & forth with your hand. If the pitch of the leaks change while doing this, the shafts seals are leaking & need to be replaced.
 
I searched the forum but really didnt find a ansewr. So my problem is my car runs fine but at boost I read 10psi briefly but no power.

I did a boost leak test and the biss screw is leaking like a pig! I went as far to remove all the ic pipes to check all connections and everything checks out good. No shaft play in my turbo, Im not hitting fuel cut as I see that came up alot in my search. I just have no power at boost.

I know the problem is in the tb/intake section. If it was'nt I wouldnt even read boost on the gauge right?
 
I searched the forum but really didnt find a ansewr. So my problem is my car runs fine but at boost I read 10psi briefly but no power.

I did a boost leak test and the biss screw is leaking like a pig! I went as far to remove all the ic pipes to check all connections and everything checks out good. No shaft play in my turbo, Im not hitting fuel cut as I see that came up alot in my search. I just have no power at boost.

I know the problem is in the tb/intake section. If it was'nt I wouldnt even read boost on the gauge right?

Where do you have the boost gauge taped into?
 
Its a manual. I have it hooked up like turbosmart instrucitons say the "t" piece between the waste gate and j-pipe nipple and the to the controll unit as per instructions. Hvent tried another boost source. Where I have it now has been working fine, minus this damn problem.
 
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