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How to fix your oil cap from leaking [Merged 3-8] leak leaky

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underdogTSI

20+ Year Contributor
33
0
Nov 16, 2002
OK, my oil cap seems to leak, and when I take it off with the motor running, it shoots alot of air out, I also had that dip stick problem where it always pops out. I have bent the dip stick tube enough to keep it in there and put in a new pvc but nothing has stopped this...Anybody have this problem or solution?? Thanks.
 
The first pic you posted above, shows the original spring installed upside down on the cap.

If you were trying to use the cap like that, thats probably why it was leaking.
 
Good fix, personally I just went for a stock Mitsu oil cap LOL. Duno why you say "crappy plastic one" maybe you were not talking about the original mitsu part? I had one kind of like yours from egay that had a ralliart piece in the middle. Did the same thing, putting a 2nd gaskit/o-ring on fixed it but I never trusted it due to the screw. Just the idea of that backing out and falling into the valvetrain OMG

The Mitsu piece use's a rivit if I remember correctly, so that shits NOT coming lose.
 
No it wasn't run that way I wasn't paying attention when I was taking pictures. I took everything apart for pictures after I finished making the part and did staged pictures. It was after 11pm and the ole lady was mad at me so I was trying to make it quick. Good catch tho.
I locktited the screw that holds the spring in place. I also replaced the original screw with a screw much longer than it came with. Frankly the original screw was much shorter than I expected it to be although the cap is threaded a half inch into the cap. I cut a custom length screw that is 2mm shorter than the total threaded length. I wanted to be sure that the screw went all the way in without bottoming out and held the stock spring and the helper plate I made down completely. The threaded part of the original screw was only about 5mm long. That felt really short to me. Very little thread saturation. I was worried that I would wind up stripping threads trying to tighten it. I didn't measure the new screw I used but I am pretty sure the threaded section was longer than 10mm. I used permanent Loctite.
 
Well, my wife was nice enough to buy me an injen cap. They come with a foam ring on the bottom of the cap. The foam isn't even glued to the cap. I noticed that the ring "baked" into my painted valve cover. It works fine now but I'm not to hip on the ring and have a feeling I will have to replace it within the next 2-3 years. The cap is beautiful but a PITA to put on or take off. I don't think I would buy it again if given the chance. As I said it was a present and was purchased for far below the going cost from injen.

d
 
No it wasn't run that way I wasn't paying attention when I was taking pictures. I took everything apart for pictures after I finished making the part and did staged pictures. It was after 11pm and the ole lady was mad at me so I was trying to make it quick. Good catch tho.

Yeah, I noticed it right away.................... I thought to myself, "thats not right" WTF

Sounds like you did a hell of a nice job. I love the ingenuity of using the fork........ :thumb:
 
I use 2 gaskets on the stock filler cap.
Stopped all leaks. Been like that for over a year, still no leaks.


DougR :talon:
 
Oil Cap part # MN163112

I just placed an order for one of these yesterday from JNZtuning.com there like $10.18, still waiting on it to get here. I think there like $17-18 from the dealership.
 
i have replaced my oil seal twice now and the dipstick i just did what u did and never has a problem again
 
no man dont use silicone just buy a new gasket or your gonna have more leaks buy a gasket less leaking and headache
 
ok thanks man wasn't sure some things i know realy well others i dot so looks like Im off to a parts store today.
 
I haven't read every post in this thread, but something I have seen fixing customers cars that I didn't see mentioned here is small cracks in the corners of the valve cover. The cause is improper torquing of the valve cover bolts. The bolts that are in the valley of the cover are in a thin area of the cover and should not be tightened first. Most of the cracks I've seen are in the rear corner right next to the oil fill cap. The easiest test I've found for this is to very lightly pressurize the crankcase with LOW PRESSURE air through the dipstick tube. ~5 psi will show if there is a crack without risking any of the seals or other damage to the engine. I've successfully welded most of the cracks I've found.
Hope this helps someone.

Ray
 
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