best oil to use??

[turboedspyder]

i have a freshly rebuilt engine and was wondering what would be the best oil to use. ive done a search and found nothing. i have 10 quarts of 20w-50 that ima use for breakin since i already have them. but after should i use a lighter oil like 10w-30? and synthetic or non synthetic? just lemme know whats been workin good for you. thanks alot

 

[gt35rx]

Breaking in the engine with 20w-50 is good. I usually break it in with 20w-50 for about 2k miles then switch to 10w-30 Mobile 1

 

[txsfisher]

Besides the price on Royal Purple is there a reason that everyone is using the Mobile 1 full synthetic?

 

[fhudsonjr]

Amsoil synthetic 0w-30 or 5w-30.

 

[EclipticalGS]

dont use royal purple for break in, use some 20-50 of either full or synthetic blend.

 

[gt35rx]

I wouldn't use synthetic to break in the engine. Only regular 20w-50

 

[donniekak]

What are your bearing clearances? I usually use generic walmart oil for break in, i change the oil 3 times in the first 100 miles. Then i use a good dino oil until 500, then usually rotella t synthetic. The weights depend on bearing clearances, and oil pressure.

 

[sschambers]

For a break in period, 20w-50 is fine. Just be sure to use non-synthetic for a break in period then you can switch to full synthetic. Amsoil by far is the best oil IMO. Mobil 1 and Royal Purple are also good choices. Hell when I broke my freshly built engine in, I used 10w-40 non-syn then switched to Mobil 1 5w-30. My motor was also the first one I've ever seen that didn't puff a single bit of smoke on initial start-up...thought that was kinda weird. Runs great though

 

[DSM1G90]

Amsoil synthetic 0w-30 or 5w-30.

...which is good for NTs, and folks in Alaska, but not for turbos.

 

[afsdsm]

Royle purple makes engine break in oil, i would use that.

 

[stevestevesteve]

im running royal purple full synthetic. 10w-30. just my .02

 

[DSM1G90]

I'm doing Mobil-1 10w30 synthetic. Just came from a 1400mi trip with the motor running excellent and smooth. Used a quarter quart on this run.

is there a reason that everyone is using the Mobile 1 full synthetic?

RP is a product that has its own following and knows with their marketing skills, they can garnish its selective followers no matter how expensive the products are. If you want the higher price oils, I'd head to AMSOIL if I'm not planning on changing my oil for 1 year or 25k miles as advertised and if I had a new car that I plan on keeping for many years.

Yet, if one is going to doing the routine oil changes, the logic in spending more on oil where one, that is just as good for bunches of pennies less, makes it pretty obvious where one is heading to to find their choice product off the shelf in seeking value for the dollar.

'sides, Mobile Oil has been around for decades where RP is quite a newer company. Where would you want to head to for dependibility and reliability?

It's like putting 93 fuel in a YUGO that can easily run 85.

It's all called "common sense."

-DSM

 

[lacroixdp]

On an engine with normal clearances, Amsoil 10w30 is top notch. Their premium oils have more anti-wear additives than what you will find in API rated oils at the store, such as Mobil 1. If you do not want to pay the extra expense, Mobil 1 is excellent as well.

 

[cookmeup272]

Im running 20w-50 in my eclipse on a fresh rebuild. Got about 900 miles on it but now im having problems with it . After I was going to switch to Royal Purpal 10w-30 since i live in a mild climate area.

 

[silverbullett]

I use 20w-50 cheapo for break-in. I switched to Mobil 1 after 5k. Been on that since. I'm not a fan of Royal Purple. I got it free from my work once. It had my silver DSM smoking bad. Switched back to Mobil and problem solved. Not to say others haven't had great results with RP, it's just my DSM is picky and wants what it wants.

 

[Rob10_99]

Your going to want to break-in with non detergent oil. Be it on the dyno or idling in your driveway.

 

[My1GLaser]

Your going to want to break-in with non detergent oil. Be it on the dyno or idling in your driveway.

Bingo. SAE30ND from NAPA is what I used. Don't idle for more than 20 min, then use the motoman break-in method. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Don't use synthetic for break-in. Don't run 20-50 then switch to 10-30??? WTF Pick a weight and run it.

Don't run 20w50 unless your clearances are set up for it.

10w40 has too many friction modifiers and additives to keep the spread between viscosities, and they break down quicker than the oil itself.

I switched to Rotella 15w40 and I will see how it does. It is run in most diesels, which are mostly turboed and have a more soot to deal with than a regular gas engine. It is gasoline approved also.

This thread is gonna get merged. There is a ton of these on here.

 

[toxicity883]

Its all a matter of opinion, Ive ran castrol syntech in every vehichle ive ever owned, ive never had a problem so im never going to change...and i do alot of contract work through BP so ill stick with the company that signs my checks.

 

[cookmeup272]

Bingo. SAE30ND from NAPA is what I used. Don't idle for more than 20 min, then use the motoman break-in method. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Don't use synthetic for break-in. Don't run 20-50 then switch to 10-30??? WTF Pick a weight and run it.

Don't run 20w50 unless your clearances are set up for it.

10w40 has too many friction modifiers and additives to keep the spread between viscosities, and they break down quicker than the oil itself.

I switched to Rotella 15w40 and I will see how it does. It is run in most diesels, which are mostly turboed and have a more soot to deal with than a regular gas engine. It is gasoline approved also.

This thread is gonna get merged. There is a ton of these on here.

Why would I run 20w-50 conventional oil forever? I run 20w-50 for about 1500 miles then I switch. Your contradicting yourself....

 

[My1GLaser]

Why would I run 20w-50 conventional oil forever? I run 20w-50 for about 1500 miles then I switch. Your contradicting yourself....

I wasn't specifically talking to you. The OP was saying that is what he was thinking of doing...now I see you actually did that after reading your post.

You run the oil viscosity that your bearing clearances call for. I don't see a reason to start with 20-50 then switch to 10-30 after 1500 miles.

 

[DSM1G90]

I've heard on that also about doing these kinds of break-ins that was posted in that link. I've also heard this is what racecar drivers do when they have to do a sudden rebuild while on the track: hit it hard with short bursts to expand the rings so they will seat quicker.

None of this wimpy break-in stuff. But, never send it to redline on the pulls.

That's a good article... have fun reading. - DSM

 

[bnr32_coupe]

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</object></center>im running royal purple full synthetic. 10w-30. just my .02

Try the royal purple 10w-40 out after you're done breaking your motor in. or maybe go with a 5 weight....

 

[DSM1G90]

You don't want 5 weight in a turbo motor-oil's too thin for our bearing clearances...unless you live in either Alaska or down on Antarctica.

Factory recommendations for the turbo (1990) is the min of 10w/30, 20w/20 and 20w/40 (5w in very cold climates).

I use 10w30 since I'm a stock DD and rarely kick in the turbo.

I did try 20w/50 but didn't like it for I felt it really bogging down the motor-gave me lifter tick and actually lost some gas mileage.

If you were a NT or any other motor, then 5 weight is okey since the bearing clearances in those motors are much tighter.

 

[MichaelSuch]

I just rebuilt my engine, the rod bearings were fairly tight, .001", while the main bearings were a little loose, about .003". Right now I've been running cheap TropArtic 10W-30 for the break in, what do you recommend I run in the Summer time and Winter time? I was going to run 15W-40 dinosaur oil during the summer, that I get for $7 something a gallon from a local oil distributor but I've been thinking I should start running synthetic after the first 1500 miles. Also who has some of the best prices for oil?

 

[TSIfreek]

I dont like the thin oils in our engines as they dont give the rod bearing protection a thicker oil gives.
15/40 rotella is what I will be using. We change our oil so often anyway it is a waist of money to run a synthetic. I would only run a synthetic in a newer car as they have crazy tight bearing clearances and they are not built with big forged rods that pound the shit out of bearings and they dont have 25 psi of boost forced on them. In my new motor my bearings are .028-.030 to keep the bearings happy.