BEP hx35 track results, time slips, datalogs (poor results holset pros chime in)

[e85_4g63]

Get some video's!

 

[907dsm]

Did you boost leak the car?? And or do a compression test?

 

[doesitonall4rs]

YOu will be surprised how much the quicker the car will be with added 3* of timing. Hang on!!!!

It seems like its made a big difference!

Get some video's!

I'll def shoot some videos at the track tomorrow. I would take the car out tonight but its tucked away cozy in the garage .

Did you boost leak the car?? And or do a compression test?

I actually boost leak tested the car last week and fixed every tiny boost leak I had.

I havent compression checked my car in maybe a year, last time I check it was at ~120 on all 4 cylinders but I was told by several DSMgurus in my area that these numbers are normal on Brian Crower 272 cams because they are not degreed since I am still running stock CAM gears. I will see what I will go tomorrow and see if I should check compression. If I trap over 120 I will know its driver error and nothing really wrong with the car.

 

[awdmonster1904]

my buddy (redrum97) did 127 trap on a hx 35 back when his motor was healthy and 5 speed

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Ah i remember now why I haven't gone to the track for 4-5 years. Sat in traffic for an hour, got there at 6:30ish, sat for half an hour while they cleaned up the track, got one run around 7, messed up 1-2 shift and car started knocking in the middle of 3rd gear, I let off and coasted to a 13.5@80MPH. Took a look at my logs fixed a few things went back out, found out some stupid domestic crashed, waited for 45 minutes while they cleaned the track, lady comes back on the loud speaker at 8:15ish "We are canceling any more racing for tonight"

Went out on the street and car ran amazingly spins 2nd on 1-2 shift and hauls ass in 3rd. I think this thing just isn't cut out for the track. Not sure if I will be able to make it there again this season, because I think its going to snow here soon.

 

[Gooberlog]

I broke my trans today but two runs before that i got a new best of 11.56@128 with a 1.88 sixty foot.
HX35 with BEP .55 a/r bolt on housing at about 33-35 psi on E85.
2.0L eagle rods, ross pistons 8.5:1CR, BC272, super tech dual valve springs ect.
Yesterday i ran 11.7s but got a new best MPH of 130!

 

[JusMX141]

130mph is baller for the HX35 turbine in the bolt-on housing.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

I broke my trans today but two runs before that i got a new best of 11.56@128 with a 1.88 sixty foot.
HX35 with BEP .55 a/r bolt on housing at about 33-35 psi on E85.
2.0L eagle rods, ross pistons 8.5:1CR, BC272, super tech dual valve springs ect.
Yesterday i ran 11.7s but got a new best MPH of 130!

Those are some AWESOME TRAPS!

How high are you reving to? Also happen to have a log of your 1/4mile passes you could post up?

BTW sucks to hear about yours trans

 

[Gooberlog]

Thanks guys. Those runs i was reving to about 8000 rpms. I'm not sure which log is which since my lap top battery is always dying and the clock always resets. I don't even know how to post a log, luckily i haven't needed to...yet.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Hey Guys is anybody logging there PLX wideband through there EGR Temp on the 1G (pin15)?

I wired it in yesterday and did all the things in link that need to be done and it just sits at 11.2:1. Any tricks to this?

 

[rhamlinii]

What's worng with your trans?

 

[Gooberlog]

What's worng with your trans?

It's stuck in 3rd gear. Clutch disengages ect, shifter shifts but feels very light in 3-4 gears, but on the trans side it's stuck in 3rd. After i get back from vacation i want to pull it out and look at it.

 

[Mr Peepers]

Broke the 3-4 shift fork. Only about $20-$30 part and usually doesn't hurt anything else since the pieces that broke off are aluminum. Usually splits right around the roll pin.

 

[jesse_fc3]

My best is 12.6 @108 with my hx35 at only 21lbs tho because of my baby injectors at the time, but i got 1000cc's now, so next year, it's gonna be 35 psi, and hopefully mid 11's!
Also i would think that with meth, and your lower 1g compression, you should be able to run a lot more timing. Right now in my car i have stock 2g internals, so about 8.5:1 compression, at 25psi on e85 and about 30* timing at red line.
Last year i went from a 1st run of a 13.5 w/ 1.7 60ft at stock timing (15* or so) to a 2nd run of 12.6 w/1.8 60ft at 30*timing i couldn't believe the difference just from timing.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

No race track for me this week due to the track being unbelievably packed. But got together with some friends for some fun. Ran this GN that was on slicks. He said his last pass he went 11.5. The run was really close. I think he might have beat me by a fender tho.

<object width='670' height='377' classid='clsid27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000' id='SFID016554228495806456'><param name='movie' value='http://www.streetfire.net/flash/SPlayer.swf' type='application/x-shockwave-flash' /><param name='allowScriptAccess' value='always' /><param name='wmode' value='transparent' /><param name='allowfullscreen' value='true' /><param name='FlashVars' value='video=a4acb9e6-3b37-448d-956c-9fa701818001&servicecfg=386'/><embed src='http://www.streetfire.net/flash/SPlayer.swf' flashvars='video=a4acb9e6-3b37-448d-956c-9fa701818001&servicecfg=386' allowfullscreen='true' wmode='transparent' width='670' height='377' allowscriptaccess='always' type='application/x-shockwave-flash' pluginspage='http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer' /></object><br/><a href='grand-national-vs-talon_2340927.htm'>Grand National vs Talon</a>

And I wont be able to make it to the track again this year. My ACT 2900 unsprung 6 puck has taken a shit already at maybe around 4,000 light miles. I wont buy anymore ACT junk. Time to find something new.

 

[goodbuds]

Ha, i like the curb on the end reminds me of back home in puerto rico.

 

[rhamlinii]

No race track for me this week due to the track being unbelievably packed. But got together with some friends for some fun. Ran this GN that was on slicks. He said his last pass he went 11.5. The run was really close. I think he might have beat me by a fender tho.

<object width='670' height='377' classid='clsid27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000' id='SFID016554228495806456'><param name='movie' value='http://www.streetfire.net/flash/SPlayer.swf' type='application/x-shockwave-flash' /><param name='allowScriptAccess' value='always' /><param name='wmode' value='transparent' /><param name='allowfullscreen' value='true' /><param name='FlashVars' value='video=a4acb9e6-3b37-448d-956c-9fa701818001&servicecfg=386'/><embed src='http://www.streetfire.net/flash/SPlayer.swf' flashvars='video=a4acb9e6-3b37-448d-956c-9fa701818001&servicecfg=386' allowfullscreen='true' wmode='transparent' width='670' height='377' allowscriptaccess='always' type='application/x-shockwave-flash' pluginspage='http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer' /></object><br/><a href='grand-national-vs-talon_2340927.htm'>Grand National vs Talon</a>

And I wont be able to make it to the track again this year. My ACT 2900 unsprung 6 puck has taken a shit already at maybe around 4,000 light miles. I wont buy anymore ACT junk. Time to find something new.

Speak for yourself, sir. I driven my car on the street, and have had over 8,000 miles on this clutch. I have a spung 6 puck w/ a 3200 PP. I'm sure my car makes more power then yours, but I have had no problems with it thus far. I do plan to replace it the next time I take this "spare transmission" out the car. Shep used my clutch combo, deep intot the 9s. If you want your clutch to last longer. I'd recomend a "ACT street disk", or a full face disk for you. In my opinion the clutch is supposed to wear, and a replacement disk is only 100-150, so I just look at it as basic manitence. You also don't need that high of a torgue rating either with your current setup. Either way, I tend to be against twin disk clutches. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

It's stuck in 3rd gear. Clutch disengages ect, shifter shifts but feels very light in 3-4 gears, but on the trans side it's stuck in 3rd. After i get back from vacation i want to pull it out and look at it.

Damn, oh well. Stop shiftin the car like your pissed off.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Speak for yourself, sir. I driven my car on the street, and have had over 8,000 miles on this clutch. I have a spung 6 puck w/ a 3200 PP. I'm sure my car makes more power then yours, but I have had no problems with it thus far. I do plan to replace it the next time I take this "spare transmission" out the car. Shep used my clutch combo, deep intot the 9s. If you want your clutch to last longer. I'd recomend a "ACT street disk", or a full face disk for you. In my opinion the clutch is supposed to wear, and a replacement disk is only 100-150, so I just look at it as basic manitence. You also don't need that high of a torgue rating either with your current setup. Either way, I tend to be against twin disk clutches. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Prior to this I ran a xtd 6 puck and it lasted for over 20,000 miles. I would run the full face but I am scared of all the shit that I see about the people snapping the springs off their ACT clutches. I also used to run a spec stage 4 on my 3000GT for over 20,000 miles that easily had over 300 launches on it. I really just want a clutch that I dont have to worry about pulling the trans every ~5k miles.

Do you use no lift to shift with you clutch combo? You think my ACT will last with a full face clutch and a 2900pp? I really do not want to spend 1000+ bucks for a twin disk clutch set up yet. But I also want a clutch that will hold 5500rpm launches and no lift to shift pulls problem free.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Do you use no lift to shift with you clutch combo? You think my ACT will last with a full face clutch and a 2900pp? I really do not want to spend 1000+ bucks for a twin disk clutch set up yet. But I also want a clutch that will hold 5500rpm launches and no lift to shift pulls problem free.

An ACT 2600 setup can easily do that!

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Shit guys, feel like a noob. Took the clutch out only to find out that the fingers on the PP got bent, probably from improper clutch adjustment. I measured the actual pads on the the clutch and they were at .305"-.308" thickness. Brand new is .315" and the service limit is .270" So I decided to just buy another pressure plate and make a clutch pedal stop so I don't over extend the PP agian. I also bought a new oem throwout bearing since my ACT one was making noise already and bought an new OEM slave cylinder. Fork/Pivot ball all looked to be in good shape since I replaced them a few years ago.

We'll see how the clutch works after i break it in for 300-500 miles.

 

[forcefed86]

Shit guys, feel like a noob. Took the clutch out only to find out that the fingers on the PP got bent, probably from improper clutch adjustment. I measured the actual pads on the the clutch and they were at .305"-.308" thickness. Brand new is .315" and the service limit is .270" So I decided to just buy another pressure plate and make a clutch pedal stop so I don't over extend the PP agian. I also bought a new oem throwout bearing since my ACT one was making noise already and bought an new OEM slave cylinder. Fork/Pivot ball all looked to be in good shape since I replaced them a few years ago.

We'll see how the clutch works after i break it in for 300-500 miles.

Clutch pedal stop? Adjust the master rod under the dash, that's why it is there. I doubt you were over extending anything anyway. Aftermarket Press. Plates are designed for less pedal effort and sacrifice travel to attain this. Check out the you tube videos by "Jacks Transmissions" on proper clutch adjustment.

Usually the problem is not enough travel. Or not enough room for the clutch to travel far enough without contacting the PP.(my issue) You need to check the step height of your flywheel while it is out. With the clutch installed the fingers should be slightly convex. Not facing each other and not concave. Not flaming you, I just went through all this garbage myself and I wish I would have know the above before I installed mine.

I'm also told by Jacks transmissions that the 4 puck unsprung is the only way to go. Because it is light weight it is alot easier on the synchros and easy to shift at high rpm. He was not happy with my decision to go with a full face southbend feramic/kevlar disc. Anthony of South bend told me this clutch weighs the same as an OEM clutch. SouthBend clutches are also thicker than ACT clutches and require more break in. My trans shifted poorly until I put a full 500 miles of heavy clutch riding on it and readjusted the clutch for max travel. Now I'd say it shifts much better but doesn't feel factory. I doubt I'll be shifting this setup over 7000. I wish I would have went with the 4 puck, but the suggestion was made to me after I had installed my setup.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

Clutch pedal stop? Adjust the master rod under the dash, that's why it is there. I doubt you were over extending anything anyway. Aftermarket Press. Plates are designed for less pedal effort and sacrifice travel to attain this. Check out the you tube videos by "Jacks Transmissions" on proper clutch adjustment.

Usually the problem is not enough travel. Or not enough room for the clutch to travel far enough without contacting the PP.(my issue) You need to check the step height of your flywheel while it is out. With the clutch installed the fingers should be slightly convex. Not facing each other and not concave. Not flaming you, I just went through all this garbage myself and I wish I would have know the above before I installed mine.

I'm also told by Jacks transmissions that the 4 puck unsprung is the only way to go. Because it is light weight it is alot easier on the synchros and easy to shift at high rpm. He was not happy with my decision to go with a full face southbend feramic/kevlar disc. Anthony of South bend told me this clutch weighs the same as an OEM clutch. SouthBend clutches are also thicker than ACT clutches and require more break in. My trans shifted poorly until I put a full 500 miles of heavy clutch riding on it and readjusted the clutch for max travel. Now I'd say it shifts much better but doesn't feel factory. I doubt I'll be shifting this setup over 7000. I wish I would have went with the 4 puck, but the suggestion was made to me after I had installed my setup.

I appreciate all your input man! But unfortunatly I read this too late and my trans is already in the car. I actually never really was worried about the flywheel step because the clutch was being disengaged without any problems and my shifting always felt great.

However with the NLTS on my car as soon as I push the clutch pedal in the tiniest bit it engages the NLTS. I tried adjusting the sensor but there is only so much adjustment I can get. I adjusted to the point where you can still push back on the slave cylinder (as described on the jacks transmission. So this puts the pedal perfectly towards the top to the point where if I hit the clutch the disengagement point and the point that triggers the switch are really close together so it doesn't feel like I am hitting fuel cut (if any of that makes any sense kind of hard to describe while typing on a message board) But the downside to this adjustment I believe is that there is a lot of room at the bottom of the clutch pedal and I think from being used to driving different cars, I sometimes push the clutch down all the way.

I believe that is what caused the pressure plate to stretch out or get over extended. But I made a really nice adjustable clutch pedal stop that I feel will allow me to adjust everything perfectly, so my NLTS sensor is happy, my pressure plate fingers are happy, and my synchros are happy


BTW I dont know if some of you guys know this, I have pulled many transmissions in my time and I recently learned that you can use an engine crane to pull the transmission and put the transmission back on. It was stupid easy, might have taken 5 minutes to pick the trans up and bolt it back in. If anybody wants a how to let me know and I can post the link!

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

When your NLTS is connected to your cruise switch, it's SUPPOSED to engage as soon as you start pushing down on the clutch pedal. If it doesn't, then it's connected to your neutral safety switch. That means your rpms continue to climb for that extra .5-1 second until you make contact with the plunger for the safety switch. It's MUCH better to have it connected to the cruise switch.

FYI, When DSMLink first came out, the 90's had to connect to neutral safety switch, while the 91+ could connect to cruise switch. Eventually, with the help of some resistors, the 90 cars could also connect to the cruise switch.

 

[doesitonall4rs]

When your NLTS is connected to your cruise switch, it's SUPPOSED to engage as soon as you start pushing down on the clutch pedal. If it doesn't, then it's connected to your neutral safety switch. That means your rpms continue to climb for that extra .5-1 second until you make contact with the plunger for the safety switch. It's MUCH better to have it connected to the cruise switch.

FYI, When DSMLink first came out, the 90's had to connect to neutral safety switch, while the 91+ could connect to cruise switch. Eventually, with the help of some resistors, the 90 cars could also connect to the cruise switch.

haha I know man, there are 2 switches. Having it off the cruise switch is the best way. I was just trying to explain why I have my clutch adjusted to engage higher up. Keeping the NLTS connected off the cruise switch and having your clutch adjustment at the bottom or a little below the middle, it will feel almost like a fuel cut for a split second until the clutch disengages because the NLTS will engage wayy before the clutch is disengaged. I tried every which way and having the clutch engaging/disengaging a little higher then the middle works the best for me. But I just recently made a clutch pedal stop so my clutch pedal isn't being stopped all the way at the floor thus over extending my PP.

 

[-red97rum-]

I ran a 10.97 @ 125mph today on my 8 blade hx35/bep bolt on housing. Automatic trans 35psi with a 75 shot on e85 and my motor has almost no compression in 2 cylinders. Hence the reason I sprayed the bi***