2G AWD tranny to block bolt question

[Bedicine]

Hi

Hoping for some feedback/advice. I’m currently bolting up my block to the transmission but I’ve run into a roadblock on one of bolts. Bolt labeled Q in the diagram (thanks to another post for that) is showing to be fed from the engine side into the block. On my motor the engine side is threaded and on the transmission side there is nothing to thread it into.

Hoping for some feedback advice

Thank you

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[99dsmer4g63]

Have your tried to thread it in? There should threads inside the bellhousing to receive this bolt. I believe they call it the jessup bolt. It is smaller than the threads on the block and should not use them.

-Daniel

 

[Bedicine]

Yes the bolt does clear the threads but there doesn’t seem to be anything to grab inside the bell housing

 

[99dsmer4g63]

There is threads in there from the factory. You may need need to separate and investigate what needs to be done and possibly helicoil it. This bolt is important to have installed. I suggest doing what is needed to fix the threads on the transmission.

-Daniel

 

[DSMPT]

On my motor the engine side is threaded

It's for mounting the engine on an engine stand.

 

[jdxnc]

That's the so called "crankwalk bolt", it's easy to strip out, you're going to need to repair it if indeed it won't thread in.

 

[Bedicine]

Looks like the threads is completely gone. That’s unfortunate, came like this when I purchased it from the last owner, of course it was the last bolt to try. Will have to pull it and put an m8 heli coil in it this weekend

What feeds into these two holes?

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[Stapl3]

Since no one replied, I don't think I've ever used those.

As for the 'Q' bolt. That's the one that people don't know about and cant get their trans off and are pulling their hair out. I watched someone 20 years ago have a meltdown and rip the trans out with a strap and truck. Looking back on it, it was that bolt.
It's also the bolt people forget to put back in, or instantly disqualify it as important. So many DSMs I've had my hands on were lacking that bolt.

Since you have it apart and can easily fix it, I would fix it. If the car was complete and I discovered the bolt was missing and threads were gone, I'd probably leave it be. It's doing something, someone designed it there, but IDK why and it doesn't seem to do much of anything comparatively.

 

[We're on Boost]

Jafro says this Q bolt is important. He says it's an M8 x 60.
I think his GSX is a 1g but it's probably the same deal.
Here starting at around 12 minutes into the video:

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In 2020 I asked Tim Zimmer if he could order me new OEM bolts for bellhousing to block.
He said, "Yeah I have no problem ordering up the proper OEM bellhousing bolts, there are 4 long ones (3 front, and 1 in back of block), see image attached."

The attached image was this pdf showing the 4 bolts highlighted. Looks like the 20999Q is the one you are talking about. So those are the 4 bolts he sent me.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

What feeds into these two holes?

I believe, since you have a 2g, that those are the rear roll stop bracket mounting holes. 2g's have them mounted to the transmission as where a 1g has them mounted on the block.

 

[Bedicine]

Have the bracket on and it doesn’t use those

I tried putting a heli coil in the one bolt location and it just spins. Can’t go to a larger size as I wouldn’t be able to feed a bolt from the block side. Worst case scenario if I can’t get anything in there to hold?

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[99dsmer4g63]

Not sure if there’s room or not but I would at least get a longer bolt and put a nut on the back of the transmission side.

If you look at the diagram posted about the bell housing bolt locations you’ll notice most are probably only 1/3 of the way around the diameter of the clutch. This specific bolt is the only one that is close to the centerline of the clutch on the rear of the motor.

You can do as want and run it without at well. Probably would take some time before you would really see the problems occur from it being missing. I don’t think it would fail today or tomorrow but likely will eventually cause clutch/crank issues IMO.

-Daniel

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I'm confused. Heli-coils dont spin. You tap a new area for the heli-coil and it threads into the new threads you just made. Can you elaborate on your process of installing a heli-coil? I can't remember if the hole is blind or open on the end. If it is open, thru bolt that thing!

 

[19Eclipse90]

Have the bracket on and it doesn’t use those

I tried putting a heli coil in the one bolt location and it just spins. Can’t go to a larger size as I wouldn’t be able to feed a bolt from the block side. Worst case scenario if I can’t get anything in there to hold?

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You could go to a larger size, you’d simply need to clearance the hole in the block to accommodate.

Pretty sure it’s not a thru-hole in the transmission.

Does the bolt thread into the transmission when not attached to the block? I.e, maybe there are threads nearer the bottom of the hole. If so, you might try using a longer bolt, just be extra cautious when tightening it down.

 

[habitatguy187]

It is not a through hole although Ive wondered if it could be drilled through. I currently have a stud extractor broke off in mine

 

[Dusty Landrum]

I'm confused. Heli-coils dont spin. You tap a new area for the heli-coil and it threads into the new threads you just made. Can you elaborate on your process of installing a heli-coil? I can't remember if the hole is blind or open on the end. If it is open, thru bolt that thing!

I was thinking the same thing.. if done correctly could never spin. Need an update on process used. Curious how this turns out.

 

[Bedicine]

The original hole must have been stripped out a bit larger then needed. If I went up another size I would have to drill a larger hole on the block side which isn’t ideal. When I had the heli coil in place before putting the car back together I did a test and the bolt went in and held. Fast forward motor and transmission together and anything after a hand tighten and the heli would not grab inside. I would get the bolt in and I could feel it grabbing and threading into the heli but once it got to adding torque the whole bolt would spin but it was all the way in.

Ended up dropping the motor and everything back in the car Friday as this was the only day I would be able to get a hand for a few weeks so it had to go in(not ideal as I would have liked to have permanently fixed this). I added some red thread locker yesterday, hand tighten the bolt in and it grabs. I just can’t torque it or it will spin again.

It is not a through hole although Ive wondered if it could be drilled through. I currently have a stud extractor broke off in mine

Is it atleast out of the car ?

 

[We're on Boost]

The original hole must have been stripped out a bit larger then needed. If I went up another size I would have to drill a larger hole on the block side which isn’t ideal.

How did the tap act when you tapped threads for the heli-coil to go into?
I mean, it should be hard to turn the tap because it's cutting new threads. Then when you back the tap out of there it should have a lot of aluminum chips in it.
Then you put the heli-coil in there.
If the tap turned easily when you were cutting new threads with it, then the hole was too big, or the tap is wrong size.

 

[Bedicine]

How did the tap act when you tapped threads for the heli-coil to go into?
I mean, it should be hard to turn the tap because it's cutting new threads. Then when you back the tap out of there it should have a lot of aluminum chips in it.
Then you put the heli-coil in there.
If the tap turned easily when you were cutting new threads with it, then the hole was too big, or the tap is wrong size.

Honestly didn’t have any issues when I tapped it. As I say this I’m also lacking sleep for the past few weeks as I’ve got a new little one. Never had any issues in the past with a heli but not much I can do at this point since the motors in the car

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