2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[gofer]

FOUND 'EM!

The long ones are 5 and 1/4" and the short ones are 3 and 3/8".

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[c2ypt1c]

The long ones are 5 and 1/4" and the short ones are 3 and 3/8".l

Thanks again man, it really helped me out:

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I went with 3.5" x 0.5" for the fronts and 6.0" x 0.5" in the rears and they fit damn near perfectly

My next hurdle is welding the driveshaft carrier brackets. Right now, I have the rear tack welded and I'm wondering if the placement is correct:

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To me, it seems a little off to the right, but I might be psycho analyzing it. What do you guys think?

 

[spyderdrifter]

As the driveshaft doesn't sit straight anyway, it doesn't have to be perfect.

 

[OGDSM1989]

Yeah, It actually cant sit perfectly straight, it will ruin the bearings / u joints and cause a clunk clunk clankity clank int the driveline.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Yeah, that was my mindset when tacking it on but I decided to call it a night to let it sink in, just in case. My donor is literally 5ft away from my fwd, so I'm just going to check the placement on it tomorrow before welding it on permanently. After seeing some other pics, I'm actually starting to worry about the forward-aft placement now...anyway, thanks for the feedback guys.

 

[eclipsh]

You can easily skip welding the front carrier piece in. I just fished some bolts through the existing piece with some wire and tack welded them so they wouldn't spin. No cutting or drilling required. Then I welded the exhaust hangers on. The indents are already there to do it all.

EDIT: NVM, I see you already drilled the old one out.

 

[Doubleot]

You can easily skip welding the front carrier piece in. I just fished some bolts through the existing piece with some wire and tack welded them so they wouldn't spin. No cutting or drilling required. Then I welded the exhaust hangers on. The indents are already there to do it all.

EDIT: NVM, I see you already drilled the old one out.

I did this, Only cut out a few of the spot welds and ran bolts threw the existing holes, Tacked them in and put the bracket back up and welded those. Worked like a charm and sold the bracket I bought off the awd car.

 

[c2ypt1c]

You can easily skip welding the front carrier piece in

Ah, good call considering this is probably my least favorite part of the swap (drilling out and welding in such tight quarters is a pain).

Just wanted to give an update on my progress - I'm glad I waited to weld the rear bracket because I was indeed too far forward. After looking at the positioning on my AWD car, it was obvious where it needed to be:

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Anyway, I fired her up and verified the pump and gauge are working Everything is pretty much done, Just need to swap the trans and axles. I'm rebuilding the awd trans next so it'll probably be a couple weeks before I send her down the track.

 

[deviousgst]

I'm about to tackle this swap myself in next few weeks if no one buys my running 95 gsx. I've read all 31 pages last year and last few days I've read all 31 pages at least 4 times . So it seems pretty straight forward. I'm sure I'll understand alot more once im in there. Seems like fuel pump wiring, alot people having trouble with. I hope it goes smooth when I come to that point. I just have couple questions that I'm not 100% sure on.

I've read people say that for ALL swaps, the fwd rear bolts can go upfront on new holes going to be made for front awd subframe bolts, then i hear that only for the SPYDER swaps. So which one is it? I'm assuming for ALL. And what's the reason for using the fwd shorter bolts up front and not use all AWD bolts from donor?

On the new forward subframe bolts, I see people make a "spacer" so bolt will not move when tightening from bottom. Is that the only reason why? Or is it to make the bolt be somewhat shorter? Extra support? And are you guys welding that spacer to body?

The rear awd bolt, no spacer or nothing like that required. From what I understand, just drop new bolt in and add a tack to hold from spinning?

The rear carrier bearing bracket, can I do that last after I install tank and subframe? Or does it have to be welded before adding awd tank and subframe? Reason I'm asking is because, I rather do rear end first so I can add driveline after and then see where carrier bearing lands to get my measurement to be exact location.

Lastly, does anyone have pics of how and if they cut a cicrlce/square to have access to driver side fuel sending unit so if I ever need to get to it, I don't have to drop subframe to get to drop tank. Thanks

 

[Doubleot]

I'm about to tackle this swap myself in next few weeks if no one buys my running 95 gsx. I've read all 31 pages last year and last few days I've read all 31 pages at least 4 times . So it seems pretty straight forward. I'm sure I'll understand alot more once im in there. Seems like fuel pump wiring, alot people having trouble with. I hope it goes smooth when I come to that point. I just have couple questions that I'm not 100% sure on.

I've read people say that for ALL swaps, the fwd rear bolts can go upfront on new holes going to be made for front awd subframe bolts, then i hear that only for the SPYDER swaps. So which one is it? I'm assuming for ALL. And what's the reason for using the fwd shorter bolts up front and not use all AWD bolts from donor?

On the new forward subframe bolts, I see people make a "spacer" so bolt will not move when tightening from bottom. Is that the only reason why? Or is it to make the bolt be somewhat shorter? Extra support? And are you guys welding that spacer to body?

The rear awd bolt, no spacer or nothing like that required. From what I understand, just drop new bolt in and add a tack to hold from spinning?

The rear carrier bearing bracket, can I do that last after I install tank and subframe? Or does it have to be welded before adding awd tank and subframe? Reason I'm asking is because, I rather do rear end first so I can add driveline after and then see where carrier bearing lands to get my measurement to be exact location.

Lastly, does anyone have pics of how and if they cut a cicrlce/square to have access to driver side fuel sending unit so if I ever need to get to it, I don't have to drop subframe to get to drop tank. Thanks

I didn't use a spacer, I simply tack welded the tops of the bolts so they wouldn't spin. That's the only reason for those spacers, so the bolt won't spin when you install the subframe.

The rear bracket must be added before the tank, thus before the subframe. What I did was get the bolts ready for the subframe. Mount it up, connect the driveline and it's clear as day where the rear bracket goes.

For the drivers side access, I went to the junkyard, pulled the cover off a 2g that covers the sending unit with the rubber boot (you obviously won't need the wires, So I chopped those off) Took the small plastic clips off the car including screws, and use those as a stencil to cut the access hole and clip holes. I have pictures of this in my build thread.

Good luck with the swap

 

[deviousgst]

I didn't use a spacer, I simply tack welded the tops of the bolts so they wouldn't spin. That's the only reason for those spacers, so the bolt won't spin when you install the subframe.

The rear bracket must be added before the tank, thus before the subframe. What I did was get the bolts ready for the subframe. Mount it up, connect the driveline and it's clear as day where the rear bracket goes.

For the drivers side access, I went to the junkyard, pulled the cover off a 2g that covers the sending unit with the rubber boot (you obviously won't need the wires, So I chopped those off) Took the small plastic clips off the car including screws, and use those as a stencil to cut the access hole and clip holes. I have pictures of this in my build thread.

Good luck with the swap

Okay cool, I'll look for your thread right now. Is there a specific reason on using the rear fwd bolts upfront on new awd subframe?

 

[Doubleot]

Okay cool, I'll look for your thread right now. Is there a specific reason on using the rear fwd bolts upfront on new awd subframe?

Because they work and are oem bolts that can take the weight? I'm somewhat confused about this question. You can't leave them in the rear because they are too short to reach the awd subframe but work perfectly up front.

 

[deviousgst]

Because they work and are oem bolts that can take the weight? I'm somewhat confused about this question. You can't leave them in the rear because they are too short to reach the awd subframe but work perfectly up front.

I mean as far as like, why use the fwd rear bolts up front, and not use the awd bolts for rear AND front?

 

[jjw205]

Because the "rear" FWD bolts are the same as the "front" AWD bolts. It is the same bolt. Two less bolts to buy.

 

[Doubleot]

Yup^

 

[deviousgst]

Because the "rear" FWD bolts are the same as the "front" AWD bolts. It is the same bolt. Two less bolts to buy.

ohhhh, my bad . I though BOTH front AND rear awd bolts where the same size. Didn't that the awd sub-frame bolts were different size in lengths between fronts and rear. I apolgize.

 

[deviousgst]

Got all stuff from donor car removed along with my gst removed. Im kinda stuck though. I'm trying to work on the front awd bolts. I made a hole where the front bolts go. So all I have to do here is drop the FWD rear bolts in here and tack the square head in there? It seems so thin of metal there? Anyone ever had any problems just dropping in bolt? Like wouldn't it flex? I've read in previous post that they just drop in there but I'm not sure what's the best route here? Other than that its going pretty well.

I do have one question, does anyone know what size bolts and thread to get for the new awd gas tank bolts? I'm planning on fishing them thru the existing holes so I don't have to cut and just tacking it to chasis. Thanks

 

[eclipsh]

There is no problem just letting the bolt heads rest in the frame rail but you can get the bushing made that is shown elsewhere in this thread. I've gone both ways and either is fine.

You can use whatever bolt you want for the gas tank. I'd put the largest one you can fit though it in. Fine threads are nicer but it won't matter much. I think I used nylon lock nuts on mine.

 

[deviousgst]

There is no problem just letting the bolt heads rest in the frame rail but you can get the bushing made that is shown elsewhere in this thread. I've gone both ways and either is fine.

You can use whatever bolt you want for the gas tank. I'd put the largest one you can fit though it in. Fine threads are nicer but it won't matter much. I think I used nylon lock nuts on mine.

what do you mean by bushing? i might have missed it in the previous posts? like an actual bushing or are you talking about the the plates different people have made? When you did yours, did you just drop the oem bolt upfront and weld it or used wrench, or did you use a hardware bolt with a head to hold with socket? thanks. i know its this has been beating over and over but i just want to do it right the first time.

 

[eclipsh]

I dropped the OEM front bolts in the front then tack welded the base in place so they didn't spin.

Yes, the plate, bushing, square washer thingy, whatever you want to call it. I have a friend with a mill so it cost me nothing but time. They're nice but probably not completely necessary.

 

[Doubleot]

I just tacked mine and never had an issue. The metal is the same thickness as a GSX so don't worry about that.

 

[deviousgst]

I just tacked mine and never had an issue. The metal is the same thickness as a GSX so don't worry about that.

Did you just tack it to the bottom with no "bushing"? Seems real thin there .Okay cool. Seems like alot people doing it like that, drop n tack. Have you noticed any issues? Like have you checked from bottom where that front bolts sits, does it look normal still? I noticed there's a thick part of frame closer by the hole for front bolt, I'm thinking of just tacking the the square head to that.. almost done with swap, just need to find me a Welder to tack the gas tank bolts and Weld the rear carrier bearing bracket. And install tank and subframe. I'm planning on removing front bracket and installing transmission last so I can drive it to a buddy's lift and finish there. Also to hear for any odd noises. Doubleot, did you get your fuel guage to work properly? What diagram did you use? Seems alot people have same problem and I don't see alot people posting if they ever fixed it. Thats my last concern. Was saving that part for last . This swap is going faster than i thought. I removed both gst and gsx rear ends and tanks Sunday, and yesterday I removed rear carrier bearing bracket along with cutting and dropping in new subframe bolts. All that in 2 days AND with a straight brace on my knee. Just had ACL and meniscus surgery last month . Prolly shouldn't be doing this but I got bored being out on disability from work and sitting on couch. Lol

 

[Doubleot]

Did you just tack it to the bottom with no "bushing"? Seems real thin there .Okay cool. Seems like alot people doing it like that, drop n tack. Have you noticed any issues?

This makes no sense to me. You have to cut access in order to drop in the front bolts it's not just a spot you can drop the bolt into. Take a picture and post it here to clarify things.

 

[eclipsh]

This makes no sense to me. You have to cut access in order to drop in the front bolts it's not just a spot you can drop the bolt into. Take a picture and post it here to clarify things.

For a Spyder you have to cut in from the side. For a Galant or a coupe you can drill holes in the top side and drop the bolts in.

 

[Doubleot]

For a Spyder you have to cut in from the side. For a Galant or a coupe you can drill holes in the top side and drop the bolts in.

I'm aware of this his post still isn't making sense to me.