2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[deviousgst]

This makes no sense to me. You have to cut access in order to drop in the front bolts it's not just a spot you can drop the bolt into. Take a picture and post it here to clarify things.

Your not understanding what I'm saying I guess. It's in the correct spot forsure. I would post a picture but idk how. But the new access hole, like I said, it just seems like it'd be best to add an extra support type plate with a hole for bolt and Weld it to the thickeright part of metal, but if people have just dropped in and tacked the head, and or even just dropped in a grade 10 bolt with a hex head with no reinforcement and have had no problems then I shouldn't worry too much

 

[deviousgst]

https://goo.gl/images/QkDfE7

 

[Doubleot]

Ah okay I see what you're talking about. If you feel you need extra support go for it. I dropped mine in and tacked the heads and called it a day. It's been two years and zero issues. Make sure you torque the nuts to spec when you install the subframe.

 

[deviousgst]

Ah okay I see what you're talking about. If you feel you need extra support go for it. I dropped mine in and tacked the heads and called it a day. It's been two years and zero issues. Make sure you torque the nuts to spec when you install the subframe.

if you don't mind me asking, how many miles in those 2 years. Launching and what not. I just wanna do this once since I'm going to be welding the flaps back down to coverun up the cuts I made. Thanks

 

[Doubleot]

Around 1,200, no hard launches. You're over thinking this. I welded my access hole closed too.

 

[deviousgst]

Around 1,200, no hard launches. You're over thinking this. I welded my access hole closed too.

I went to budget bolt to get me some bolts instead (just to see what works best. Stock or new 10.9 grade bolts) and they had these square washers that fit perfect in the front location. They're about 1/8 thick I belive. I just have to shave the corners a bit to make it sit flush. I wish I can upload pics of my progress from my phone but says file too late

 

[deviousgst]

Here is the washer

 

[deviousgst]

Are you guys tacking the carrier brackets or welding it completely on each side? I was planning on welding in the holes where the spot welds used to be. Should still be strong enought right?

I'm actually going to go buy a harbor freight Welder right now. And I know they're cheap but I've used them before for little welds like this so I should be find.

 

[Doubleot]

I did full welds

 

[deviousgst]

Test fitting brackets. Had tacked rear carrier before but was just double checking. Was spot on

 

[Doubleot]

Easiest way to get it lined up!

 

[eclipsh]

Just weld in where you drilled spot welds.

 

[deviousgst]

Well I regret getting the cheap Harbor Freight Welder. My weldes are coming out like .

I filled in the spot welds and TRIED welding a whole Weld along the rear bracket(backside, closest to tank) I only tacked the front side of that rear bracket. I'm not too happy with the welds so I'm going to just slap fuel tank on and subframe back on and drive it to a exhaust shop and have them Weld the rear bracket better. It looks like there's enough room once tank and subframe are on. After that, all I have left is trans n tcase

 

[deviousgst]

I know. Worst weld. Gonna grind it down a bit install tank and subframe and drive it to a shop and have them Weld it much better. Also I was planning on welding fuel tank bolts so I wouldn't have to cut anymore inside but the way this Welder is, I might just have to cut from up top

 

[deviousgst]

Ended up welding studs for the gas tank bolts and mounted it. Tomorrow going to install subframe and figure out the wiring for fuel pump. Btw, my welds aren't the best. Especially with a cheap Welder =/

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[eclipsh]

I don't think I'd trust those welded studs to hold a full fuel tank going over bumps. I just drilled up though the bottom holes as guides, dropped carriage bolts through and tapped them down flush with a hammer. They look fine, don't spin and will definitely hold.

 

[deviousgst]

I don't think I'd trust those welded studs to hold a full fuel tank going over bumps. I just drilled up though the bottom holes as guides, dropped carriage bolts through and tapped them down flush with a hammer. They look fine, don't spin and will definitely hold.

Yea im planning on redoing through front. The rear, should be fine. I fished them thru the bigger holes near by. Welds are just to hold the bolt from spinning anyway

 

[deviousgst]

I'm stuck on the wiring. I dont understand the diagrams in the previous posts. There's 2 yellow blue wires. Which one do I use? The awd harness, fuel pump connecter has a yellow with blue stripe, and the sending unit plug has a yellow wire with blue stripe. On the gst harness side, it has 2 yellow and blue wires( gst harness has 2 pin plug and 7 pin plug) donor was 95 and gst is 97

 

[deviousgst]

Nevermind, think me and my brother figured it out. It's reading empty and gas light is on. Donor car was on empty and gas light was on when I drove it last. So hopefully it's all good. Tomorrow gonna drive it to a shop to have carrier bearings welded in.

Finally on all 4 again.

 

[Doubleot]

Here's the wiring I used since I have a 98 spyder the plug is different from 95-97 and 98-99. This worked for me and my gas gauge works well. Hope it helps

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And these are the wires from the main plug I used in order to wire them into the sending unit plug.

 

[deviousgst]

My plug looks different

 

[deviousgst]

This how I have mine wired. Gas guage is at empty. Gas light turned on too before I put 5 gallons in and guage still didn't move

This is how I have the wiring now.

2nd pic is the plug I removed from my gst, it's a 7 pin not a 3

 

[deviousgst]

What does it mean on the diagrams as far as "3 pin" mine has 7 wires

 

[deviousgst]

Just got back from Chevron, put 10 gallons and only reading quarter tank

 

[Doubleot]

Since your plug is different I'm not sure what you'll need to do.