2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[c2ypt1c]

Hey guys, so I'm (finally) finishing up my swap and didn't realize I needed the awd starter plate. I bolted the trans up and noticed one of the starter holes does not line up on the plate. My question is, can I just drill out the hole and be done with it or am I going to have to drop the trans (again) and order a new plate?

2g m/t awd trans -> 2g m/t fwd

 

[miguelmcv]

No you can't, if you take a look at the starter plate it has the molding for the starter housing as well so you have to grind it as well, otherwise the starter will not sit in the plate.
Best bet is removing the trans and install the correct plate.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Fantastic...alright thanks for the help man

 

[Fox1486]

Hey guys, so I'm (finally) finishing up my swap and didn't realize I needed the awd starter plate. I bolted the trans up and noticed one of the starter holes does not line up on the plate. My question is, can I just drill out the hole and be done with it or am I going to have to drop the trans (again) and order a new plate?

2g m/t awd trans -> 2g m/t fwd

I did the exact same thing a few years ago. Went back and forth on how To Dix it. But I agree with miguelmcv, best bet is to remove trans and get the right plate.

 

[IHeartMyHonda]

Same thing happened to me. I had 3 fwd starter plates sitting around that I could have modified. In the end, I bit the bullet and bought a new one since they are so cheap.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I'm searching and searching but not finding how anyone has done a fuel pump rewire for us with the awd swap. I've done it but now swapped to an external pump and having an issue where the pump stays on full time when the key is turned on and it's kicking my BUTT to diagnose this crap. I'm not sure which wires do what. Everything I see as far as anyone making a diagram just names the color wires such as yellow w/blue stripe. Well that doesn't tell me much. I need to know which one is power, which is ground, which wire is signal, and at which connector, etc. etc. And when doing a rewire it's even more complicated when I look at something like this which I purchased from STM.

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I know 87 goes to my pump but where I'm confused is where 86 goes to. That doesn't tell me squat. Like which color wire, and where am I cutting? Anyone have any idea? I'm going nuts over here. Thanks!!!

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Nevermind. I found this diagram Gopher posted awhile back and it helped me resolve my issue. I had #86 wired up to one of the yellow wires for whatever the reason. It's all fixed and working now though. Carry on.

 

[Tony818]

Guys sorry to bring up this old thread but im a lil confused with my fuel pump wiring. This is the diagram im following

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but i only see three connectors in the car. This is what i have so far.

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Am i missing something here? The pump is from a 95 gsx going into a 99 gst spyder

 

[Doubleot]

Why did you cut the plug out of the second sending unit? I believe all those other wires need to stay connected to work properly. The only two that need to be cut and spliced are those two in the diagram. Also are you using connectors or tying the wires together? You'll want to make sure you either solder or use good connectors to keep those solid. Also, use heat shrink to keep them clean and protected.

 

[95REGF150]

The reason your plugs don't match the diagram is the later 98-99 cars have additional evap related wires and a the larger square plug (bottom one in his picture). So some wires need to be removed or not used from that plug when doing the AWD swap. The other wire colors are the same and so far looks like you have it right. Nice thing is you just have to match the wire colors except for where it loops through the second AWD sending unit:

FWD Square Plug:
Blue/Black - Fuel Pump Power (To AWD White Plug)
White/Black - Fuel Pump Ground (To AWD White Plug)
Blue/Yellow - Sending Unit Power (To AWD White Plug)
Black/Yellow - Sending Unit Output (To AWD Black Plug)
Black - Sending Unit Ground (To AWD White Plug

AWD White Plug:
Blue/Black - Fuel Pump Power (To FWD Square Plug)
White/Black - Fuel Pump Ground (To FWD Square Plug)
Blue/Yellow - Sending Unit Power (To FWD Square Plug)
Black/Yellow - Sending Unit Output (To AWD Black Plug)
Black - Sending Unit Ground (To FWD Square Plug)

AWD Black Plug:
Black/Yellow x2 - Sending Unit Output
1st wire - (To AWD White Plug)
2nd wire - (To FWD Square Plug)

The reason for the second plug and the Black/Yellow wire running between the two is that the AWD has two sending units. These have to add in resistance to make the same total resistance as the single sending unit in the FWD. This is actually how it is wired from the factory on the AWD. Here is mine from my AWD swap. I have the large guage wires because mine is setup for rewired.

But as you can see the Black/Yellow wire that goes between the two AWD plugs is original. I never cut it. I just spliced the others into the FWD plug. What I have detailed above is the minimum you need to get the car running and the fuel gauge working. Either way something is off about your plug arrangement.

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[Tony818]

Ya man for some reason you have the male plug that actually attaches to the sending unit on the gas tank. That's not correct. You need the female plug like I have in my harness below.

As far as wiring the rest of it the reason your plugs don't match the diagram is the later 98-99 cars have additional evap related wires and a the larger square plug (bottom one in his picture). So some wires need to be removed or not used from that plug when doing the AWD swap. The other wire colors are the same and so far looks like you have it right. Nice thing is you just have to match the wire colors except for where it loops through the second AWD sending unit:

FWD Square Plug:
Blue/Black - Fuel Pump Power (To AWD White Plug)
White/Black - Fuel Pump Ground (To AWD White Plug)
Blue/Yellow - Sending Unit Power (To AWD White Plug)
Black/Yellow - Sending Unit Output (To AWD Black Plug)
Black - Sending Unit Ground (To AWD White Plug

AWD White Plug:
Blue/Black - Fuel Pump Power (To FWD Square Plug)
White/Black - Fuel Pump Ground (To FWD Square Plug)
Blue/Yellow - Sending Unit Power (To FWD Square Plug)
Black/Yellow - Sending Unit Output (To AWD Black Plug)
Black - Sending Unit Ground (To FWD Square Plug)

AWD Black Plug:
Black/Yellow x2 - Sending Unit Output
1st wire - (To AWD White Plug)
2nd wire - (To FWD Square Plug)

The reason for the second plug and the Black/Yellow wire running between the two is that the AWD has two sending units. These have to add in resistance to make the same total resistance as the single sending unit in the FWD. This is actually how it is wired from the factory on the AWD. Here is mine from my AWD swap. I have the large guage wires because mine is setup for rewired.

But as you can see the Black/Yellow wire that goes between the two AWD plugs is original. I never cut it. I just spliced the others into the FWD plug. What I have detailed above is the minimum you need to get the car running and the fuel gauge working. Either way something is off about your plug arrangement.

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It looks like we have the same connections. But where are your black /blue and black/white wires going to?

 

[95REGF150]

It looks like we have the same connections. But where are your black /blue and black/white wires going to?

I see now you do have the correct black plug. Just don't remember mine having all those extra wires. But my AWD was a 95 so maybe if yours was a later car it had extra evap stuff. Anyway your other connections are the same as mine so you should be good to go. Just need to remove the extra pins from the connectors or you can just clip the wires off close up to you.

The extra wiring on mine is because it is setup for a larger 255 fuel pump. The small 18 guage factory wires cannot support enough current to keep the voltage up at the pump in high load situations. This can cause the fuel pressure to drop.

The way my harness is done is what people normally refer to as fuel pump "rewire". I just incorporated it into my FWD AWD patch harness. The large gauge wire on the fuel pump side goes to a high current relay and then to a battery. The smaller blue and white wires on the car side are the from the factory fuel pump relay triggered by the ECU. I in turn have them trigger my relay for the larger wire. Boom - No more voltage drop or worrying about the car going lean from inconsistencies in the fuel pressure.

Here is my relay setup. You can see the fuel pump relay on the right side. I have a rear mounted battery so I just pulled off the main fuse I have for that for the pump. 30 amp fuse in case I get a short somewhere in the pump wiring.

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[Tony818]

I see now you do have the correct black plug. Just don't remember mine having all those extra wires. But my AWD was a 95 so maybe if yours was a later car it had extra evap stuff. Anyway your other connections are the same as mine so you should be good to go. Just need to remove the extra pins from the connectors or you can just clip the wires off close up to you.

The extra wiring on mine is because it is setup for a larger 255 fuel pump. The small 18 guage factory wires cannot support enough current to keep the voltage up at the pump in high load situations. This can cause the fuel pressure to drop.

The way my harness is done is what people normally refer to as fuel pump "rewire". I just incorporated it into my FWD AWD patch harness. The large gauge wire on the fuel pump side goes to a high current relay and then to a battery. The smaller blue and white wires on the car side are the from the factory fuel pump relay triggered by the ECU. I in turn have them trigger my relay for the larger wire. Boom - No more voltage drop or worrying about the car going lean from inconsistencies in the fuel pressure.

Here is my relay setup. You can see the fuel pump relay on the right side. I have a rear mounted battery so I just pulled off the main fuse I have for that for the pump. 30 amp fuse in case I get a short somewhere in the pump wiring.

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I guess where im getting confused is this fourth plug

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i have 3 but cant find that fourth one. Where would it be?

 

[95REGF150]

You don't have a 4th plug. All 5 wires are part of the one large square plug in the later FWD cars. You already wired that entire diagram as what you have done. Just think of the 2 FWD plugs in that diagram as your one big plug.

 

[Tony818]

You don't have a 4th plug. All 5 wires are part of the one large square plug in the later FWD cars. You already wired that entire diagram as what you have done. Just think of the 2 FWD plugs in that diagram as your one big plug.

Sir. Id like to buy you a beer now i gotta figure out why it wont start. When i crank it feels like it wants to start but it just jerks and nothing happens

 

[95REGF150]

Well first thing I would do is make sure the fuel pump is actually running. If you don't want to yank the back seat out and listen for it you can always pop the return hose off at the regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. When you turn the key from off to on is should prime for a second and you will get a little fuel out of the regulator. If not then you dont have fuel pressure and she won't start.

If thats the case check is for power at the blue/black wires. Fuel pump relay might be bad. Or you may have swapped the wires and the pump is running backwards.

If you have fuel pressure while its cranking then the problem is elswhere than the fuel pump wiring

 

[Tony818]

Well first thing I would do is make sure the fuel pump is actually running. If you don't want to yank the back seat out and listen for it you can always pop the return hose off at the regulator on the fuel rail under the hood. When you turn the key from off to on is should prime for a second and you will get a little fuel out of the regulator. If not then you dont have fuel pressure and she won't start.

If thats the case check is for power at the blue/black wires. Fuel pump relay might be bad. Or you may have swapped the wires and the pump is running backwards.

If you have fuel pressure while its cranking then the problem is elswhere than the fuel pump wiring

I have fuel in the fuel rails, but i can only hear the pump when i stop cranking. Right now i have the pump out. Can i just conect it and turn it on while its out?

 

[95REGF150]

Gonna be almost impossible to hear it while its cranking. Ya you can connect it and have someone watch it while you crank the car to make sure. If you can hear it running for the short period after you stop cranking then 99% it is running during cranking.

But again just because the pump is running doesn't mean its not spinning backwards. Are certain that you have pressure at the rail?

 

[Tony818]

Gonna be almost impossible to hear it while its cranking. Ya you can connect it and have someone watch it while you crank the car to make sure. If you can hear it running for the short period after you stop cranking then 99% it is running during cranking.

But again just because the pump is running doesn't mean its not spinning backwards. Are certain that you have pressure at the rail?

I just got done installing the fuel tank back up. Once i get the pump back in ima try what you said about the regulator hose. Thats the one by the timing belt right?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

I just got done installing the fuel tank back up. Once i get the pump back in ima try what you said about the regulator hose. Thats the one by the timing belt right?

Correct

 

[Tony818]

Correct

I havnt checked the regulator yet. But as soon as i put the fuel pump in i turned the key it stayed on for a good 8 seconds and then it shut off.

 

[Tony818]

Update guys! Everything has been good. It was just the alternator. Which is wierd because i had it checked at oreilys 2 mo ths agi and it was good. Its running good and strong. It was my first time ever stroking an engine, and doing the awd swap. Looks like everything turned out great. Thanks to everybody for your time. Appreciate this community

 

[Doubleot]

Glad you got it figured out, the members on this forum are amazing!

 

[Tony818]

Anybody had code p0446 pop up after the swap? Im willing to guess that it had to do with the fact that my Eclipse is a 99 with a 95 gas tank (and emission regulations changed since then) any idea how i can take care of the problem?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Have Link? Easy fix with that. Otherwise you may just need to possibly fix the issue somewhere.

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