2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[T is for TURBO]

Wow, that's pretty crooked. How did it get that far off?

 

[nicknorth11]

When installing the carrier bearing, that's where it fit the best. Everything I read on hear said to install it where it fits snug. Well, that was it. Is it too far off?

 

[T is for TURBO]

let me go take a shot of mine real quick... Since it's still on jack stands :-/

 

[nicknorth11]

Thanks. I just found a thread with some pictures and it looks like mine is correct, but more pics are definitely welcome.

For reference:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/307675-pictures-undercarriage-awd.html

 

[T is for TURBO]

I guess that is actually where it's supposed to be. I guess I never paid much attention to the straightness of the the drive shaft.

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[nicknorth11]

Thanks.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Is the driveshaft okay? No dings anywhere? Sure it's not the tires that need to be balanced? Possibly warped rotors?

 

[miguelmcv]

Check the drive shaft bushings, check for play or some sore of.

If the bushings are OK, Then check the carrier bearing, they might be bad.

If they end up being bad, then you have a big headache there.

Here are some stuff to look at.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JurluoSxJHI]Driveshaft 103 - Replacing carrier bearings - YouTube[/ame]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/438476-about-drive-shaft-carrier-bearing.html

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/dshaft.htm

 

[nicknorth11]

Is the driveshaft okay? No dings anywhere? Sure it's not the tires that need to be balanced? Possibly warped rotors?

The driveshaft looks good. I'm not sure about the tires. They've been sitting for about 14 months, so they may have flat spots, I'll look into that. The rotors should be good.

Check the drive shaft bushings, check for play or some sore of.
If the bushings are OK, Then check the carrier bearing, they might be bad.

The bushings were replaced with aluminum ones and the carrier bearings appear to be in good shape.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll look into them a little more and get back to you guys.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Check the balance though. Not just for flat spots. If the rotors are warped, you'll feel them when you hit the brakes. Is the vibration at 40 and any speed above that? Or does it go away?

 

[nicknorth11]

The first time I drove it, I hit 40 mph, it started, and I slowed down. The second drive I hit it going 40, I kept accelerating to 50, and it stopped. Ironically, it didn't do it again that drive. Both drives were only a mile long. No subsequent drives.

 

[Sebba]

Seriously, just take it off, get it to a driveshaft shop, and have it checked for balance.

 

[nicknorth11]

I don't see the harm in waiting until I get an alignment. No need to pay to have it tested if the alignment solves it. Patience = money, grasshopper.

 

[jdxnc]

The angles look fine, the drive shaft is not supposed to be perfectly straight, so that the wear does not occur in the same spot all the time.

 

[nicknorth11]

So the alignment fixed that issue, but there's another one. On acceleration the car drives wonderfully, but on deceleration it has a bad vibration and sound coming from the rear. Any ideas?

 

[Sebba]

Perhaps a bad U joint, or a worn out rear? How are the bushings?

 

[T is for TURBO]

Is the exhaust clearing everything? Is it vibrating during decel while in gear? out of gear? or both?

 

[nicknorth11]

The bushings for the diff and subframe are aluminum. I'm not sure about the exhaust. I'll check that in the morning. I'm pretty sure it just happens when in gear.

 

[T is for TURBO]

If it only does it in gear, it could simply be exhaust harmonics. Especially since you have aluminum bushings, you might just be experiencing the cars natural frequency.

Is it happen at a certain speed only? or a certain RPM range only?

 

[nicknorth11]

Any time during deceleration in gear. And it's WAY too loud and vibrates too much to be harmonics. I'll do some poking around tomorrow and try to get more info.

I took a look under the car and took it for another test drive this morning. The exhaust seems to clear everything, but there are a couple of spots where the carrier bearing studs are pretty close to it. (I don't think this is the problem, though.) The vibration seems to be coming from the far rear, and only during deceleration while in gear at higher RPMs. If I give it just a tiny bit of gas, just enough to prevent the RPMs from falling too quickly, it stops. I'm thinking something must just be loose back there. I'll check again tomorrow when I have more time.

 

[johnovision27]

Nick, I suggest checking your axle boots to make sure they are A) not ripped or loose and B) filled with grease. When those bearings run dry and wear out, they cause a ridiculous amount of vibration under all driving conditions.

But on to my question!
I've read and re read, and REREAD all of the guides and still have a couple questions.
Firstly, bottom holes for the forward AWD subframe bolts. Are they already cut into the chassis or will I have to measure and drill them myself? By the looks of it, the hole is already there, I just want to make sure.
Secondly, in reference to this part of the VFAQ
"On the 1998-1999 gas tank there is a solenoid at the back of the tank and sensor on the fuel pump assembly. Wiring the solenoid and sensor may be optional. I wired one, but not the other and haven't received a check engine light. You will however want to splice into the ABS if you have this option. These wires will connect according to color. Connect the ABS, and evap purge solenoid to the corresponding colored wires. I just hid the solenoid behind the plastics under the rear speaker. You may hear it click when you start the car."
Am I matching up the colours of the evap solenoid to those of the ABS system? (Tapping into the ABS?) Again, just feel a little unclear and would appreciate some guidance here.
Thirdly, Seeing as I'll be doing this swap on a 99 Spyder, is it possible to remove the rear crossbrace with out cutting it?
Fourthly, is it relatively easy to line up the dual inspection ports for the AWD gas tank on the rear seats or should I be taking accurate measurements before sending my donor car off to the wreckers?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[eclipsh]

The rear subframe holes are already there, no drilling required. You'll want to cut in from the side to drop your bolts in though (as you've probably seen).

Do not wire the ABS to anything other than the ABS or it won't work.

I can't say for certain on your Spyder but in my Galant the rear seat pan stamp had outlines for three locations of inspection holes for the gas tank. I just had to cut out the one on the driver side and then drilled out the holes to screw in the additional cover.

 

[Peepers]

Johnny, there's no way to remove the Spyder's rear cross bar, it needs to be cut out to gain access to the driver's side rear subframe bolt hole.
You can see where I cut and rewelded my access hole here - sprayed back to factory black

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With regards to the dual inspection ports for the AWD gas tank, do not skip this. I've had to use these access ports many times to pull the transfer pump. It would have been a bi*** to remove everything and drop the tank to gain access. I don't recall taking too much measurements as I think the indentations are already there. Just use the donor access plates as templates. Also make sure you keep those "little square plugs" that the plate hardware screws into. I'm sure there's other ways to secure that access plate, but I went after the OEM look. Heck, I even went so far as adding the AWD OEM warning label located on the driver's side door jam

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[johnovision27]

Darn. I was afraid of that. Oh well. Just one more thing to add to ths list. Looks like you cut it right at the base opposed to in the middle of the pipe. Is that correct?
Thanks for the info and pictures, exactly the answer I was looking for. Looks great and clean. I wouldn't have installed the tank with out some easier way to get to the sending units/pump without dropping the tank.

I plan on removing the LSD warning from the donor door jam and installing it on the Spyder as well.

Did you have to rewire that evap solenoid or were your cars of the same year?

Cheers

 

[daren_p]

Did you have to rewire that evap solenoid or were your cars of the same year?

Cheers

Marks a 97, so all the emissions on his setup were the same as his doner (IIRC 95-97 are the same). In 98, Mitsu had the bright idea of making the fwd vs awd completely different.

I used a 96 doner & being 98 all my emissions related stuff was mostly in/behind the fuel tank, where as the awd's still had it in the engine bay. So I had to basically ditch the evap setup.