2G AWD Conversion/Swap Guys Enter Here - Advanced. [Merged 2-07]

[GRNDSM]

Both, the center hole AND the four bearing mounting holes are different. Since the FWD holes are smaller, you might be able to make them work on AWD, but the original holes will be breaking through the new (larger) center hole. So it will be a bit of a hack job... It guess it all depends on your ability to live with it... There are lots of things in this thread that I wouldn't do.

I ended-up selling my rust free FWD backing plates as part of "disc conversion kit" to a member of this forum with NT (they normally have drums). So you could offset the cost of buying AWD backing plates by selling your old plates (assuming they are in good shape).

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Don't even waste your time trying to use fwd backing plates. The holes are different, as well as the overall diameter.

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I think someone mentioned the parking brake cables as well. You can disconnect it at the disc which in my opinion is easier than swapping out the entire cable. The fwd cables will work just fine.

Grndsm, your idea works, but a lot of these guys don't have access to a milling machine. As I posted earlier in the thread (but it's back a good bit so I'm sure most people will miss it), a cheap and VERY simple solution is to just have a nut welded on top of the bolt. Any welding/exhaust shop could handle it easily and quickly if someone doesn't have a welder. That way you can hold it on top with a socket and keep it from spinning. Just drop in a nice thick washer or two and call it good.

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[GRNDSM]

Your "cheap and very easy" method doesn't work very well for Spyders

I too, do not have access to a milling machine (anymore), which is why I used JayRacing. I gave the drawings to Jay, so they can make more of them for anyone who wants my blocks!

 

[v8s_are_slow]

But it works good on the coupes. Lol.

 

[GRNDSM]

But this swap should only be done on Spyders!

 

[gofer]

How much did Jay charge for those backing plates Leon? I used a different method to bolt up my rear subframe but still have the stock AWD subframe bolts in storage and I like this idea a lot better.

 

[GRNDSM]

I believe they were $40 and he only made a pair for me. I am sure if quantity goes up, the price will go down. But you would have to talk to Jay about it .

Make sure to ask for the shorter, second version (I had to send them back for rework).

 

[jjw205]

I believe they were $40 and he only made a pair for me. I am sure if quantity goes up, the price will go down. But you would have to talk to Jay about it .

Make sure to ask for the shorter, second version (I had to send them back for rework).

Count me in if they decide to make some more of these...... seems like a good idea.

 

[NWHTanK]

Question about this swap. Should I go with a two piece aftermarket drive shaft If one can afford it? Estimated hp 500 to 600 range.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Tank, two piece Dsmspick love's his setup.

 

[GRNDSM]

That will simplify your swap (one less carrier bearing mounting to worry about). Personally, I am not a fan of such driveshafts... Some people love them, but I HATED it based on my experience in Bruce's car.

This is why: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152246360-post76.html

 

[nicknorth11]

My halfshaft bracket isn't lining up right. The axle is all the way in the transmission, but the bolt holes are about 3/16" off. Any ideas why?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Bracket probably isn't on the shaft all the way. Tap the bracket over but be careful not to mess up the bearing.

 

[nicknorth11]

That gave me about 1/16". I still need another 1/8".

 

[2slow4now]

These are the mounting blocks I made for my swap. I liked them better because it gives more structural rigidity attached to the frame more like what the original bolts would have. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/428065-95-eagle-talon-tsi-awd-swap-started.html
Post 3 and 6. A plus is you can use the rear fwd bolt in the front bolt location and have two extra awd bolts from your swap parts car. Don't remember how much they cost me to make though.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Are you 100% sure the bearing/bracket is on all the way? If the shaft is in all the way, that's the only thing I can think of. Maybe pull the shaft and inspect it? Take the bearing off and inspect that if needed.

 

[nicknorth11]

I installed solid roll stops. Do you think that could be pushing the transmission over?

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Nope, engine and transmission would still be bolted together, and that distance wouldn't change.

 

[2slow4now]

Nick are you sure the bearings in the carrier are seated all the way? Or maybe the shaft isn't seated all the way into the bearings?

 

[nicknorth11]

Ok. No, I'm not sure. I've hammered the bracket toward the shaft and vice versa. I'm not sure how to tell if everything is probably seated. Here's a couple of pics.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Take the CV joint off. Then hammer the bracket in the direction of the transmission. But not while the shaft is in the transmission. If it still doesn't go far enough, hammer off the bracket/bearing and see what's up.

 

[nicknorth11]

K. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Also, try and mount the shaft without the CV joint attached. Makes it much easier. Install CV joint after shaft is installed.

 

[nicknorth11]

Thanks guys. Got it.

 

[nicknorth11]

I've got a vibration when I get up to 40 mph that i haven't been able to identify. I still have to get an alignment, but I was wondering what the tolerances of the driveshaft angles are? Does this look too drastic?