Anyone using tial vband turbine housing?

[4ged4G63]

I'm sick of dealing with the old school flange turbine housing. Having a galant with ac makes it extra difficult if I need to remove the turbo and/or exhaust manifold for whatever reason due to having the least amount of space from the upper core support to head compared to the other 4g63 powered cars which have more clearance.

Right now I see no cons to upgrading to a tial turbine housing, well, other than the wallet taking a serious gouging.

If you have one and have put some mileage and wrench time on it I would like to hear your opinions. I will be having a manifold and dp made to accompany the tial housing.

I'm looking at going from working on a turbo/flange and dp that have aprox four to eight bolts and a bracket that is a bi*** to get to, to three or four vband clamp nuts that literally take less than 30 seconds to loosen and then wala, the parts disassemble. Life changers is what I've heard vband clamps referred to as.

I'm looking at probably the .82 housing. Looking for an easy 500 whp on e85 using ecm tuning v3 "lite". Stock intake manifold and tb for now, 272 hks cams, rev limit is close to stock but can be raised a bit if needed.

Pics for reference:

TiAL Sport.com

I've seen just the housing offered for around $450. Probably go that route and just stick with my existing turbo which is a 60-1 or equivelant to fp red.

Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.

Cliffs: na

 

[turboglenn]

It's the same thing i've wanted for a while now but really it comes down to only being as reliable as the manifold. My friend craig had the same cast manifold that i still run for a long time and two years ago went to a SS tubular and bought the V'band to convert it all over to "quick release" as we were calling it... The problems weren't with the V-band couplers or turbine housings but with the manifold cracking like they are known to do if not built properly. I wold say given the correct bracing and materials used to make the manifold or convert it to the bands, you would be fine.

Personally, I have stayed with cast as I thankfuly don't have to worry about my turbo braking the manifold, but I may not lok as cool as some of my friends either. Ijust pull the manifol and turbo as one unit, and i can have it off including the downpipe removal, intake and FMIC piping in under 30 minutes just removing the manifold to head bolts

 

[4ged4G63]

Tubular manifolds do look cool but I would like one more for ease of use and power potential. People that I've spoke to about ex manifolds always recommend fp's ex mani but it puts the wastegate too close to my alternator. I would like to retain ac so relocating the alt is not an option. Plus the fp manifold is convention bolts/nuts to turbine housing which keeps me at dealing with havong to pull my radiator if I need to pull the turbo. Not enough space for me to get in there.

Many views with no responses but I already know which direction I'm ging in wit this upgrade.

Thanks for the suggestion and insight turboglenn.

 

[ExtremeTurboSystems]

I have a galant and can pull the turbo without pulling the radiator. get a stubby ratchet wrench and life will be easier. the o2 housing is the pain for me. and if your having trouble with the nut that goes to the head behind the power steering bracket you can either cut the bracket or get a 12MM u-joint socket. tools make life easier. Best option for pulling the turbo though is just un bolt the 2 bolts to the downpipe, the 2 for the return line, coolant/oil lines and then unbolt it from the head and pull it off. can be down in around 30 min.

 

[turboglenn]

couln't get my turbo off the manifold with themin the car as an assmebly if i wanted to, just no clearance to get to two of the 4 bolt really.. But i'm running a custom Hx35/40/T3turbine housing with a stock 2g radiator and fans with alt, power steering and AC... the hardest oart is pulling the down pipe flange from the T3 turbine section (converting to V-band as soon as i am out of pain long enough to swap the actual DP front section)

It's still easiest with the t-netics manifold i have to pull the manifold off the head and lift the turbo and mani out together compared to trying to pull the turbo out alone.. might just need to re-evaluate the methods at which you remove the turbo because most people don'tthink my turbo and OEM fans and such can even b put in together but i've made it clear just fine and can work on it with ease (when i do it in the right order)

 

[4ged4G63]

I have a galant and can pull the turbo without pulling the radiator. get a stubby ratchet wrench and life will be easier. the o2 housing is the pain for me. and if your having trouble with the nut that goes to the head behind the power steering bracket you can either cut the bracket or get a 12MM u-joint socket. tools make life easier. Best option for pulling the turbo though is just un bolt the 2 bolts to the downpipe, the 2 for the return line, coolant/oil lines and then unbolt it from the head and pull it off. can be down in around 30 min.

Na, I dont have any trouble getting to that lower nut on the head behind the power steering pump. The headache is once I get all the nuts off and go to pull the ex mani away from the head my entire turbo assembly runs into the radiator fan. I have a spal low profile puller fan on the drivers side and one oem fan relocated in front of the ac condensor pass side.

V band everything is going to be the solution for me, it seems. If I had a 1g/2g dsm this wouldnt be as much of a concern seeing as how I would have more space. It doesnt clear by what seems like mm's. my o2 housing is custom but very close to the block. I think its time I have all these pieces updated and the routing adjusted so I can get to everything easier.

No one on here has a shearer or jmf v band ex mani and turbine housing?