Am I asking for trouble?

[efrainz28]

I’m worried that I will have a lot of issue with my car after the rebuild. There proper procedures for breaking inn new/rebuilt cams, engine, transmission, and brakes. I haven’t seen any one do it all at once. I am doing an AWD conversion, fuse box relocation, and switching to E85 to add the mix. Is there a better way of doing this?

I was thinking of breaking inn the engine first FWD but I don’t want to buy a FWD flywheel.

 

[ramsack]

Just keep it on gas/petrol for the break-in, which shouldn't last more than an hour, unless you're a genius tuner and can get things dialed in right away on E-85 or your car is already tuned for it. There's no such thing as a break-in anymore. Just check for leaks at first and idle it at like 2 grand for a few minutes, and if all is good go for a hard drive.

 

[Tyeler18]

Just keep it on gas/petrol for the break-in, which shouldn't last more than an hour, unless you're a genius tuner and can get things dialed in right away on E-85 or your car is already tuned for it. There's no such thing as a break-in anymore. Just check for leaks at first and idle it at like 2 grand for a few minutes, and if all is good go for a hard drive.

Also you don't need to break in brakes, but your clutch you'll want to break in. Just run pump gas tune to start, then after 500-1000 miles switch to your e-85.

 

[ramsack]

A "break-in" shouldn't even last that long. Maybe 100 miles.

 

[efrainz28]

Just keep it on gas/petrol for the break-in, which shouldn't last more than an hour, unless you're a genius tuner and can get things dialed in right away on E-85 or your car is already tuned for it. There's no such thing as a break-in anymore. Just check for leaks at first and idle it at like 2 grand for a few minutes, and if all is good go for a hard drive.

I want to use royal purple break-in oil or brad penn is much better?

Also you don't need to break in brakes, but your clutch you'll want to break in. Just run pump gas tune to start, then after 500-1000 miles switch to your e-85.

Brakes will have new rotor. (Break-in the rotor) I will use the 660 injector and then switch to 1600 injectors.

here my build http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/332793-my-2-0l-t3-build.html

 

[thomcasey]

I want to use royal purple break-in oil or brad penn is much better?


Brakes will have new rotor. (Break-in the rotor) I will use the 660 injector and then switch to 1600 injectors.

here my build http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/332793-my-2-0l-t3-build.html

No need to break-in the brakes or rotor.

 

[efrainz28]

I have a question about the short block surface. The surface is smooth but on one side it rusted a little. Can I still use a MLS? How can I remove the rust?I will assemble my engine. Can I use a harbor freight torque wrench? Is it accurate?

 

[ramsack]

Can you feel the rust? I would just use some steel wool or really really fine sandpaper and LIGHTLY try to get the rust off. Any clicking torque wrenches are not very accurate. The ones that actually tell you the torque by bending the whole wrench are the most accurate and least expensive.

 

[T-mun]

depends on how bad is the rust.. if it is not pitting, u can get away with some light sanding and use MLS.. I

 

[Tyeler18]

I have a question about the short block surface. The surface is smooth but on one side it rusted a little. Can I still use a MLS? How can I remove the rust?I will assemble my engine. Can I use a harbor freight torque wrench? Is it accurate?

If you're going to use a MLS you NEED to deck both the head and the block. It won't seal properly without (just had problems with a new 1g I just bought not decking the head or block before the previous owner used a MLS).

 

[efrainz28]

If you're going to use a MLS you NEED to deck both the head and the block. It won't seal properly without (just had problems with a new 1g I just bought not decking the head or block before the previous owner used a MLS).

deck both the head and the block.

Can you feel the rust? I would just use some steel wool or really really fine sandpaper and LIGHTLY try to get the rust off. Any clicking torque wrenches are not very accurate. The ones that actually tell you the torque by bending the whole wrench are the most accurate and least expensive.

I'll take pictures of the block and post them up. I heard that the torque wrenches you describe are most likely to fail over time more than the spring type.(clicking one)

 

[boostedgsx95]

No need to break-in the brakes or rotor.

I always heard its best to do 1 or 2 60-0's so you can PROPERLY set your pads to the new rotors.

And on the break in, all your really "breaking in" are the new bearings. Just drive like normal for the 1st couple one hundred miles before you "beat on it"

 

[ramsack]

Everything in the engine should be clearanced right off the bat. If something needs broken in to set clearances then that's bad machine work and the engine won't last anyway.

 

[hhuricane]

Brakes do need to be broken in.

StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades

 

[ramsack]

If brake pad material supposedly gets left on the rotor then why don't they just make the rotor coated with brake pad material? I don't believe they need to be broken in, it just happens from use. The brake pad and rotor match surface shape at the microscopic level after time. Manufacturers saying you need to break stuff in is a way for them to make sure you are out of or close to out of warranty by the time you start pushing stuff to the limit. Very few companies actually support you using their products how they are intended to be used and warrant that. One is Quaife.

 

[efrainz28]

If brake pad material supposedly gets left on the rotor then why don't they just make the rotor coated with brake pad material? I don't believe they need to be broken in, it just happens from use. The brake pad and rotor match surface shape at the microscopic level after time. Manufacturers saying you need to break stuff in is a way for them to make sure you are out of or close to out of warranty by the time you start pushing stuff to the limit. Very few companies actually support you using their products how they are intended to be used and warrant that. One is Quaife.

I did an evo brake swap and I was told that if you don’t break-in the rotor correctly u will ruin your rotors. There was a member on the evo forum that bought a set and didn’t break them in. they warped and were replace twice. He followed the instructions and 100k later there still going.
I have a Quaife installed with my shep stage 4 Trans with evo 3 1st and 5th gear that I need to break-in, I don’t want to break it.

 

[ramsack]

I don't see how a rotor is more susceptible to warp early in its life as opposed to later on. Of course that goes with the simple fact to heat your brakes up slowly in racing. For the street who cares, you're not slamming on the brakes all the time. Warped rotors are caused by either people not torquing wheels or a defect in the metal itself.

 

[efrainz28]

I don't see how a rotor is more susceptible to warp early in its life as opposed to later on. Of course that goes with the simple fact to heat your brakes up slowly in racing. For the street who cares, you're not slamming on the brakes all the time. Warped rotors are caused by either people not torquing wheels or a defect in the metal itself.

from what i read on the link"not properly bedding in pads, uneven pad material deposits can occur that may cause a vibration. "

 

[joescool2008]

The brake pad could be rigid and cause hot spots since it wouldnt be evenly worn new. It makes sense to me.

 

[ramsack]

It just sounds like a gimmick to get people to only push what they buy later on instead of right away. Brake pad material sticking to the rotor sounds like complete crap, too. If you don't drive a car for a while and the rotors get some rust on them it will wear off almost right away and iron oxide is pretty damn hard of a material. Brake pads should produce dust, not leave deposits on the rotor. Anyway, I would just get the block surfaced, and the head too if you haven't yet. MLS gaskets are sensitive to surface imperfections, and people just use copper spray as a band aid. I recommend against using it.

 

[nightmares GS-T]

I always heard its best to do 1 or 2 60-0's so you can PROPERLY set your pads to the new rotors.

And on the break in, all your really "breaking in" are the new bearings. Just drive like normal for the 1st couple one hundred miles before you "beat on it"

No sir The bearings are the least of the worries when it comes to break in, The first 20 miles are crucial because most of the "break in" is seating of the rings. Its a never ending debate but most will say beat on it a good bit for those first 20 miles then drive it normally until you finish the entire break in procedure.

 

[efrainz28]

It just sounds like a gimmick to get people to only push what they buy later on instead of right away. Brake pad material sticking to the rotor sounds like complete crap, too. If you don't drive a car for a while and the rotors get some rust on them it will wear off almost right away and iron oxide is pretty damn hard of a material. Brake pads should produce dust, not leave deposits on the rotor. Anyway, I would just get the block surfaced, and the head too if you haven't yet. MLS gaskets are sensitive to surface imperfections, and people just use copper spray as a band aid. I recommend against using it.

The head and block have been resurfaced. I’ll post picture when I get home today. What’s the torque spec for an A1 head studs? What MLS should I use? Mitsu or felpro

 

[jb2zero0six5]

I used ARP headstuds, torqued to 90 ft. pounds in three steps, and a cometic MLS.

 

[efrainz28]

I used ARP headstuds, torqued to 90 ft. pounds in three steps, and a cometic MLS.

The stud to the block is hand tightened?

 

[2gTSIFZone]

yes studs into the block are hand tight, then go 3 steps to ~90ft/lbs