Altered Mental Status (1G AWD 5spd)

[CrackedDSM]

Just found out there's an E85 station an hour exactly from me. That's not too bad at all, and the gas station is a small shop that tests/mixes their own so it's guaranteed at 80-86%. So honestly I may put this car on E85. Or at least go flex fuel sensor and occasionally throw some corn juice in when I feel like putting it on kill. Or even just mix my own E30-E50ish blend so I can boost what pump will make just a leeeetle bit more. So that's exciting. Gotta add a flex fuel sensor and the wiring kit for it to my parts list.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I honestly expect this at this point. So I paid extra for a complete stud and nut kit from ExtremePSI instead of eBay junk, thinking it would go on and be great. Nice smooth install. But before I got these things anywhere NEAR my cylinder head I test fitting them together. They threaded on hand-tight, then stopped. Pulled it off, and even with HAND (no tools), it started to come off on each other. With basic hand tools, they immediately stripped out/ruined the threads and are impossible to get back off.


If I would've tried to do this while they were in the cylinder head, you'd strip every single thread. Nowhere in the ad did it specify you should remove the coating or run a tap over both the nut and the stud itself. No instructions included with the kit either. Which leads me to believe it's rebranded eBay junk. Avoid ExtremePSI's in house brand exhaust manifold stud kit.

Guess I'll try the FP kit next. If that sucks, I have no damned clue what to do other than try to piece together a kit myself or find the OEM kit somewhere. Shame the hell on ExtremePSI for selling such a junk kit.

Pictures:

$35 after tax and shipping for something that honestly I could’ve gotten for $18 on eBay.

 

[Christo]

I would go either Stainless Steel or OEM. I have had the ARP SS set for a long time without issues.

ARP Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold Stud Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt

ARP has developed an innovative multi-purpose accessory stud that can be used for exhaust systems, intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. The studs are manufactured from a proprietary alloy developed by ARP (Stainless 300) and are impervious to the rust and corrosion that plagues ordinary...

www.extremepsi.com

OEM Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit-6 Bolt Head-Flange Style Nuts | JNZtuning.com

 

[CrackedDSM]

I would go either Stainless Steel or OEM. I have had the ARP SS set for a long time without issues.

ARP Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold Stud Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 6-Bolt

ARP has developed an innovative multi-purpose accessory stud that can be used for exhaust systems, intake manifold and exhaust manifolds. The studs are manufactured from a proprietary alloy developed by ARP (Stainless 300) and are impervious to the rust and corrosion that plagues ordinary...

www.extremepsi.com

OEM Exhaust Manifold Stud Kit-6 Bolt Head-Flange Style Nuts | JNZtuning.com

100% gonna order the OEM stuff from JNZ. I just don’t understand why someone would sell a junk kit.

 

[Mickey5055]

One last update of the day. Short and sweet, but I couldn't take it any longer. I did a mod that lost me about 50+ HP, and I am not even a little bit sorry.

Here it is....ready?

Before...

View attachment 686180

Jumpin' Jehoshaphat can you guys SEE how much pollen is on this car? This is honestly less than a weeks worth. A F**KING WEEK! And it's not even summer or spring! This is why I am heavily considering painting this car white, or silver. Because pollen is a straight gangster around here...anyway..on to the mod.

After! Less horsepower never felt so good.

View attachment 686181
View attachment 686183
View attachment 686182


Honestly, so much better. The stickers were really clashing with the paint scheme for me, and honestly I'm just not a fan of stickers. The ONLY exception, is the "jealous?" sticker on the bottom in the center. I was really gonna keep it, but it was cracking/fading and starting to come off with just the pressure washer. I'll 100% get another one though, just to troll people. I know this isn't a McLaren or some kind of high dollar supercar, but it'll irritate them just the same. And I am all about that.

I just want to answer your question on your back window, Yes i am jealous.

 

[DogWhistle]

Believe it or not, that picture is about the halfway point man. The shop that did this had to have two people working on it. Guy #1 was awesome and heatshrinked/soldered every connection, and ran loom that looks identical to the stock loom to the cabin and was meticulous.

Guy #2 chugged a beer or twelve, said I can finish this in like 35 seconds, and made sure he didn't use a single bit of solder anywhere for any of the power and ground wires, and divided all the wires in every different spot he could, meeting in a giant ball right at the ECU behind the radio.

We know exactly what you described. Some people should never be let near a car.

Enjoying reading the build. Keep up the good work!

 

[CrackedDSM]

We know exactly what you described. Some people should never be let near a car.

Enjoying reading the build. Keep up the good work!

That's the God's honest truth! Thanks a bunch, I'm definitely trying.


I've learned my lesson and I ordered the OEM studs and nuts directly from JNZTuning. I'll order the turbo bolts and gaskets/lines that I need later, but dammit I at least want the manifold itself bolted on. JNZ has some great deals, man.

You're all riveted and excited about some updates for some nuts and studs I know. Contain yourselves.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Update from ExtremePSI in case any of y’all are curious. It was a case of the nuts being a different thread pitch than the stud. So please beware if you buy this kit in the future and test fit it before you install it in your head.

I’m gonna test out the new kit because I’m curious. Still got the OEM studs on order.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So the updated stud/nut kit came from ExtremePSI, and honestly I'm just not impressed by it. I just don't think I agree with locking nuts on a DSM exhaust stud. Especially not if both the nut, and the stud are coated. The nuts are copper coated, and the stud is like black nitride coated or something. Both of those things mean the threads get galled easily, and the entire stud/nut assembly will turn and strip the head out. Unless I'm missing something, and locking nuts are supposed to be easy to get on. I haven't attempted to tighten them down, but it's kinda the same problem as before. They'll thread onto the studs by hand for a few turns, and then stop hard. Any more and I'm confident they'll strip.


Also, why would you include lock washers along with locking style nuts? Wouldn't you just need one or the other? IDK. I'm not going to install them though, at least until I get the actual OEM studs and nuts in from JNZTuning and compare the two.

 

[CrackedDSM]

JNZTuning OEM studs and nuts came today, and my God is this the way to go. Don’t even bother with the copper nuts/aftermarket options from anyone. Just go OEM from JNZTuning. They fit together like they’re greased up or something. Total joy.

Such a joy. Here’s the “updated” ExtremePSI kit by comparison.

Meh. I’m not gonna bother. Maybe it won’t strip when you tighten it down but I’m not taking that chance.

If anyone wants the extremePSI kit I’ll sell them to you for $22 shipped/sent as a PayPal gift. I don’t need or want them.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Unsurprisingly no one has taken me up on the extremePSI studs. Lol.


I’m not dead, just enjoying EMS work in my home county. Had some A5 Waygu Ribeye to celebrate yesterday and dear God does it melt in your mouth.

But yeah. Kiddo has to go to the dentist so it’ll be a month or so before I buy any more car parts.

 

[We're on Boost]

A5 Waygu Ribeye

??
I had to look that one up. It sounds like something I'd see in a tripleS "Signal" episode, where they mix tortured English in with their native Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and Vietnamese. Close! It's Japanese right? Anyway I've never had it but glad to know about it.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

It might sound like I’m living dangerously, but the parts stores sell some exhaust manifold studs in the “help!!” section intended for some Fords I believe that are the right thread and have a hex head that I cut down to the original length and use, topped with nuts and flat washer with a lock washer from Rural King with some nickel antiseize. Never let me down, however the plating on the studs burns right off and looks like doo doo within a few heat cycles. One of these days I might buy the right thing to go in there just to look nicer if anything but knowing how I do probably not.

 

[CrackedDSM]

??
I had to look that one up. It sounds like something I'd see in a tripleS "Signal" episode, where they mix tortured English in with their native Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and Vietnamese. Close! It's Japanese right? Anyway I've never had it but glad to know about it.

It’s technically American. It’s the result of breeding a Kobe cattle with American angus. A5 is the grade.

Basically means a super marbled fatty ass steak with a tiny bit of red.

 

[chrisman287]

I applaud you for what you’ve done so far. Reminds me much of what I’ve had to do with my car.

In the end, it’ll all be worth it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I applaud you for what you’ve done so far. Reminds me much of what I’ve had to do with my car.

In the end, it’ll all be worth it.

What helps is when I'm past the whole weird schedule part and get a set routine down for the county EMS I work at, then I can start throwing money at the car. It's honestly not very much left to do, just mainly elbow grease and some odds and ends. Hopefully if everything goes well I'll be ordering all the rest of the fasteners and stuff I need to bolt the turbo on here soon, and the rear motor mount too.


But, thank you for the kind words!

 

[curt-s]

I hate those copper nuts. I'd rather use the multi-ply copper gasket and (and do) tighten standard nuts with lock washers on it once a month than deal with those damn copper things again.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I hate those copper nuts. I'd rather use the multi-ply copper gasket and (and do) tighten standard nuts with lock washers on it once a month than deal with those damn copper things again.

Honestly I so agree with you. I don’t see why they even sell them or how anyone uses them without stripping the threads in the head. I thought ooooh copper goodness that’ll be great.

Meh. Lesson learned.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Today was a really good day for the DSM. I know it's stupid and small, but it's good to win a battle no matter how small.


Installed the OEM studs and nuts thanks to @DSSA and all the good folks at JNZTuning. God this was honestly a pleasure. I rarely say stuff like that about working on any car, but legitimately I actually had fun doing this. And the result was so satisfying. Not a ton of details, so I'm just gonna upload the pictures and let them speak for themselves with a few notes.

1) The nuts that game off the car were similar to the OEM style but there were two different sizes at seemingly random. 12's and 13's. They were also not copper plated/whatever the oem stuff is.

2) I test fitting my old rusty ass heatshield that I got fleeced on, and it fits great. So satisfying, man.

The nuts that came off. You can see they're two different sizes. 12 and 13 mm.

OEM Nut on the right. Close, but flip it over...

Now you can see the difference a little more clearly. Also the studs and nuts were a completely different thread pitch than the OEM ones.

God that looks good. Brand spankin' new and not rusty at all. Also as a win, I didn't have to helicoil the one stud hole that was a problem before. Win!

Here's a better pic of the old rusty ones. You can see where someone used vicegrips to install them or something, and it's rusted over so I definitely didn't do it. Good thing I didn't just try to reinstall some new nuts and go.

Bam! Victory is sweet. Yeah it's just a stock unported 2G manifold, but man. So satisfying. Also just ignore that little welded thing on the bottom right of the manifold. Someone welded in an EGT probe and I just ended up cutting it. Which is why I mentioned test-fitting my OEM heatshield to see if it cleared.

And it cleared beautifully! I need to sand it completely down and repaint/prime it so it looks better, but eh. Painting and pretty stuff comes later after it's all together and buttoned up.


Thanks for stopping by guys and gals. More updates later. Next step will be buying all the turbo fasteners/gaskets/lines, and bolting it up. Pretty exciting stuff tbh, as that's the last thing before I can get a battery for it and start it up/break it in. Definitely gonna drop the pan though and check all the bolts and shit down there though, because if the head was this stupid, the bottom end doesn't exactly inspire confidence.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Also, went back to my butcher and got some a4 wagyu partially so I could update this thread with pictures for reference. You can imagine how much more marbled the A5 was. Lol.

Gonna grill it imminently. Mmmh.

 

[We're on Boost]

The nuts that came off. You can see they're two different sizes. 12 and 13 mm.

Ahh yes, the 12mm across the flats would be a JIS type nut. JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) is what we normally have just about everywhere on these cars. The 13mm ones would be either DIN or ANSI/ISO.

That A4 looks plenty good! I noticed the A5 is ridiculous expensive. I did watch a video by "The Bearded Butchers" talking about this stuff and cooking some. Pretty interesting.

Thanks for all the pics!

 

[CrackedDSM]

Got an oil feed line w/ restrictor on order, just waiting on it to arrive.

In the meantime, I have a question I want to pose to you guys. Should I keep my carbon fiber hood, or trade it out for a stock unit?


My logic/thought process is partial aesthetics, but partial practicality. The hood is gonna need new pins drilled into it to keep it closed(don't want it to kiss the roof at any kind of speed), but the hood pins that are on it now are in an idiotic spot(right over the radiator brackets), so I'd have to complete redrill/reinstall new hood pins. Which means there would either be two unused hood pin brackets just sitting there empty, or two empty holes that I have no idea how to hide or cover. It's also getting a little old and cracking. So..keep or trade?

I do really like how it looks, and with a sanding/reclear job it would look brand new. But the hood pins and a few other things has me wondering. I think it would still look great with an OEM hood painted black to match the body. But, curious as to yall's input.

 

[Dericsh]

Got an oil feed line w/ restrictor on order, just waiting on it to arrive.

In the meantime, I have a question I want to pose to you guys. Should I keep my carbon fiber hood, or trade it out for a stock unit?


My logic/thought process is partial aesthetics, but partial practicality. The hood is gonna need new pins drilled into it to keep it closed(don't want it to kiss the roof at any kind of speed), but the hood pins that are on it now are in an idiotic spot(right over the radiator brackets), so I'd have to complete redrill/reinstall new hood pins. Which means there would either be two unused hood pin brackets just sitting there empty, or two empty holes that I have no idea how to hide or cover. It's also getting a little old and cracking. So..keep or trade?

I do really like how it looks, and with a sanding/reclear job it would look brand new. But the hood pins and a few other things has me wondering. I think it would still look great with an OEM hood painted black to match the body. But, curious as to yall's input.

What about fix the hood pin location, and then paint the carbon hood body color?

 

[CrackedDSM]

What about fix the hood pin location, and then paint the carbon hood body color?

That would kinda work, but I don't like hood pins on a painted hood.

I give you permission to scratch your head and/or laugh react but that's just me. If I have CF I want to show it. I have debated going the ricer-ish route of just fixing the hoodpins and getting the hood professionally wrapped in gloss CF.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I decided today was a good day to give it a bath with actual soap. I still didn’t scrub it down or put too much elbow grease into it but wow does it look better. It leaks a little on the drivers side which kind of surprised me, so I guess I need to address the weatherstrip situation there.

But yeah. Man this car doesn’t look too bad with a proper bath. Excites me to get it running soon. But I’m gonna have to take the spoiler completely off when I go to actually detail wash it because the amount of dirt that comes out after I stop the water is still too damn high. But, that’s a future me problem.

Appreciate the views and comments everyone.