ECMlink Afratioest 5000 reading

[TasosEclipse]

Hello I have a problem sometimes the afratioest reading numbers are like 5000 6000 4500 for a second and the car dies. If you know what is causing this please let me know I will post a log later

This is the log

 

[Stapl3]

Your LoadScale is 75%. Are you running a 2.65l engine?

That aside, put in a realistic SD table. Your car doesn't idle at 73.5% VE.

 

[TasosEclipse]

Your LoadScale is 75%. Are you running a 2.65l engine?

That aside, put in a realistic SD table. Your car doesn't idle at 73.5% VE.

It’s a 2.3 liter

And with hks 280 cams

 

[Stapl3]

Then it should be 87, not 75. If you know the engine's overbore I can get it more accurate.

 

[TasosEclipse]

Then it should be 87, not 75. If you know the engine's overbore I can get it more accurate.

85.5mm

 

[Stapl3]

Ok, so we'll call that .020 over. That plus 2.3 results in 2.325. 2/2.325 = .86. You should put 86 for LoadScale instead of the default recommendation of 87.

 

[TasosEclipse]

You suggest this is the problem?

 

[Stapl3]

I see other things too, but it's definitely a major error.

 

[TasosEclipse]

I see other things too, but it's definitely a major error.

I will change it what other things you see?

 

[Stapl3]

Well like I said above the SD table needs to be brought back to reality. It is just so wrong. Now, if these SD values at idle are giving you what you want, which it seems to be kinda doing, you'll need to either adjust the global fuel and/or add a ton of deadtime when you load in a "stock" table to counteract the table change.

You have HKS 280s and are getting ~ -18 vacuum at idle? How? Are your cams degreed aggressively? Is the base timing set at 5*?

Your IAT is stoned at 83F. Do you think this is accurate?

I see big changes to the AirflowSmoothing, but I don't think that's really an issue.

You have the least aggressive timing table I've ever seen. Which is totally fine. Between that and the target AF table I assume you're running low boost and have access to low octane fuel?

 

[TasosEclipse]

Well like I said above the SD table needs to be brought back to reality. It is just so wrong. Now, if these SD values at idle are giving you what you want, which it seems to be kinda doing, you'll need to either adjust the global fuel and/or add a ton of deadtime when you load in a "stock" table to counteract the table change.

You have HKS 280s and are getting ~ -18 vacuum at idle? How? Are your cams degreed aggressively? Is the base timing set at 5*?

Your IAT is stoned at 83F. Do you think this is accurate?

I see big changes to the AirflowSmoothing, but I don't think that's really an issue.

You have the least aggressive timing table I've ever seen. Which is totally fine. Between that and the target AF table I assume you're running low boost and have access to low octane fuel?

I have this timing table because the car has 10:1 compression ratio and this map not knocking. I have 100 octane fuel and methanol injection 50:50 mix.

 

[TasosEclipse]

So I changed the load factor but still shuts off

 

[We're on Boost]

So I changed the load factor but still shuts off

It looks like you are having an electrical problem with the Omni 4-bar sensor.

If you display Baro, and then the raw value for Baro which is "RawOmni4Bar" which is in volts, you will see that those raw volts go to 0 in the places where your AFRatioEst values go sky high. (Like around 3.432 seconds)

So, how can the sensor volts actually go to 0? All of a sudden there is a compete perfect vacuum in the intake manifold?
No.
It must be either a bad sensor that works intermittently, or a wiring connection that goes bad intermittently, or there could be a problem with the Baro input on your ECU.

The Baro input on 2g ECUs has a known compatibility problem for some sensors. I think people use it ok sometimes. Supposedly the Omni 4-bar sold by ECMTuning is OK. So I don't know how likely that is. But if you want to read about that, there's a wiki for it here:
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/2gbaroinputworkaround

Probably it's just a bad sensor or you have a bad electrical connection someplace. There have been a lot of people who've had trouble with the Omni 4-bar sensors lately so it wouldn't be unusual for that to be it.

If you want to try a different input to the ECU, this wiki is good:

externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[jed344]

I agree with everything stated above too. I also agree this is the lowest timing values I have ever seen for wide open. The car must be a total dog and likely has extremely high exhaust temps. I would be concerned about the exhaust valves and turbine in the turbo with these values.

I tune a lot of 10:1 cars as well. Personally lowest I would go is 3 degrees at peak TQ and 10 degrees up top. Ideally anyone running 10:1 would be aware that either e85 or high octane fuel/meth injection will be needed. Ideally a good safe place when you are not knock limited is 5 degrees at peak TQ and 12 degrees up top. When using very good fuel like ignite red we will run 7-8 at peak TQ and 14 degrees up top. This is on cars with 64mm+ turbos at north of 40psi. The timing mark on the ground strap of the spark plug will tell you what your exact set up wants.

You want to also check disable air flow smoothing with SD operation.

 

[DSMPT]

I have this timing table because the car has 10:1 compression ratio and this map not knocking. I have 100 octane fuel and methanol injection 50:50 mix.

My 2g is 2.3 and has 10.5 compression ratio, run with 91 pump gas and 50/50 water methanol injection. Yes I had to pull some good amount of timing to prevent knock, but you have 100 octane + w/m and getting knock even if your timing is lower than mine?
I feel something is not right with basic things. Are you 100% sure that the mechanical timing is set correctly?

 

[TasosEclipse]

The car with those timing and 1.7 bar pressure made 520whp with gtx3071r gen 1

 

[jed344]

The car with those timing and 1.7 bar pressure made 520whp with gtx3071r gen 1

Have you confirmed your base timing advance is 5 deg BTDC. The timing map is targeting -10 degrees at say 5000rpm and then also another 2 degrees pulled in the slider. That would be total negative 12 degrees. Something has to be up for it to even make any power at all. Base ignition timing must be very high.