Advice on first mods - 97 gst

[Atuca]

Hey all, i know everyone has to lose their virginity one time or another, and now it is finally my turn!

I have done a full tune up on the car, and fixed some problems with mater and slave clutch, passed smog today, registered the car for the year, and now, i got about 800 bucks burning a hole in my pocket.

As you can see in my profile, i have a completely stock 97 Eclipse GS-T, and it needs fixing. I am not a racer, i hardly accelerate when a riced civic revs his engine at me at a stop light( although sometimes i do and i smoke him, which is always great, being as i just got my first manual transmission and he is all riced up ) ANYWAYS, i am looking for a few lights mods.

My list includes:

BOV (greddy type s perhaps)(which i got a bazillion questions about type S/RS/wtf)
K/N cold air intake (i beleive is the name for it)
maybe exhaust (does it really matter)
maybe front mount intercooler (does it really help?)


that is it really. The exhaust was a "eh, kids like it" front mount intercooler looks nice, but i think they are expensive. BOV is cheapish 200 bucks right? but i have no idea what supporting mods i need and would i want one if it doesn't circulate to the atmospher (i am going for efficency, so if it recirculates to the intake, does it change the sound at all?) and the K/N cold air intake, well, it matters if i get a FMIC right? and well, i looked up eclipse on K/N's website and the only had the square filter, and i thought that you could have the cone one that adds 30 horse power or w/e.

anyways, i need you guys to put your hand in my pocket and spend my money. just don't feel around too much, the pocket ain't toooo deep.

-thanks in advanced
Philip

 

[forcefed4]

Sounds like you're well on you way to becoming addicted to this stuff
Welcome to the land of boost!

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As a side note...those were one heck of a couple posts kenamond! You told him all about what he was looking for and then some!

 

[Atuca]

well i can finally see how someone can spend 10-15k in upgrades when i see the list on craigslist..

I will look into suspension, but seriously, when i said money wasn't a problem, that was when i was looking to buy a MBC

I am going to have just enough to get the exhaust, and than i have to lay low for a while, twinker with boost leak testing for a while until i am good at it, or at least better than not knowing how to do it at all.

It is something i would want to eventually look into, but that would come, for me, after purchasing new tires. I am not down to the warning mark, another 1/8 inch, but i am already starting to lose traction at high speed cornering, especially when it is raining.

 

[Atuca]

did you see kenamond on page two at the bottom? take a look if you didn't. I told me everything about the cumbustion engine as a whole.

that man was able to call out how unknowledgable i was, and than correct my problem. I know a heck of alot more because of him, he gets

Anyways, i got t minus 10 mins till my g/f gets here, guess i should put some clothes on or something

I'll try and sneak onto dsmtuners throughout the next few days, because like you said, i am kinda becoming addicted. It is a shame that this addiction cost more than drugs, i might have to start them instead of this car

anyways, i am on a waiting spree to get all the stuff you guys told me to order, so now all that is left really is the exhaust and perhaps either a 1g BOV flange, or a UICP with a 1g already welded on. Which if i could ask a quick question, will the 1g flauge fit other BOV other than just the 1g? anyways, not important now.

talk to you guys all later, this is becoming the new myspace for college kids

 

[forcefed4]

but i am already starting to lose traction at high speed cornering, especially when it is raining.

That, my friend, will be a neverending battle, especially once you start making more power!

the 1g flange will fit the greddy valves, with a little drilling and tapping. they also sell adapters for the HKS valve to fit on the 1g flange.

 

[Atuca]

awsome sauce

 

[eklypse]

Damn Kenamond...you answered questions for me that I havent even asked or searched for yet, !

I'm not sure if anybody mentioned it already, but what about a SAFC or somethin similar?

 

[GreddyGst]

Yea, don't worry Phillip, we all socialize together at the meet. All this info is too much for me to read but yea bring all your ideas to the table and we will tell you what works for you. We have people who are lightly modded and heavy modded so you will get a better idea of what route to take and I know you're aiming for 250 so that isn't too hard to do.

 

[Atuca]

Well for those who care, i got a few packages in, and well i have a few comments.

First off, i have been working on the interior lights, and changing them to blue. That has been so far going smooth, all for one thing. Somehow, i had the blinker arm pressed down in the "turning left" position. Well when i went to plug in my car battary and start the car, it didn't start, i heard a little pop, and realized imediatly it was the blinker arm. I checked the fuses and everything, but the blinker wil not turn the lights on now. The hazards still work, so i know it isn't the bulb or anything, but the actual arm that turns the lights left OR right does not work. Havn't even begun to look into what is required to fix that, but that is a problem that will need to be addressed in the near future (until then turning with my hazard lights )

Second, Installed my indiglo lights successfully. That only took like 3-4 hours longer than i expected. I am a bit of a perfectionist, and have to have all the wires all pretty and stuff, soddered and such. Anyways, that was pretty easy, only had to pull them out one time to readjust them so it didn't catch on anything.

Third, i got my boost gauge and my oil pressure gauge. Now, i havn't read on here and can't til tomorrow ( i got class tomorrow at 10) so i gotta crash and do some homeworks in the morning, but i am unsure, although i believe, i will need to buy a metric thing for the pressure gauge, and well believe i need to buy the copper tubing, although i am unsure why i can't use the nylon, it is rated at 200 psi. So if anyone wants to say sure philip get the metric or not, well tell me please, or not.

and to add to that, I am almost 99.9% (only 99.8% actually) sure that autometer did not package a sealing nut and a ferrule. I got the screw that it would connect to, even though i will probably have to change it, but there is no chance i could have dropped it, there was only 1 in the bag (2 total complete between the oil and the boost gauge), i noticed it before i opened it. So i am i bit unsure what happened there, but it might be all ok in the end if i have to buy a new one in the end anyways.

Other than that, all these projects are being completed slowly but surely, got stuff yesterday and today, and i expect them to be done by thursday or so, i got stopped today by tefflon tape, which apparently i need, and with the possiblity of oil coming into my cockpit, i am not taking a chance.



To end this, really i just want to know the following:

Do i HAVE to get the copper tubing for the mechanical oil pressure gauge

Do i have to get a metric end for the oil presure gauge(i am not sure where i need to screw it in anyways.. )

Any idea what to look for with my turn signal not working, lights are all good, just the switch is not.


Other than that, i hope to hear from you guys soon, I will have pictures up sooner or later, and the reputation points I owe all of you will be awarded when i get the chance to just sit and do it, but beleive me, you guys will be getting them

-Philip

 

[turbodsm18]

Well for those who care, i got a few packages in, and well i have a few comments.

First off, i have been working on the interior lights, and changing them to blue. That has been so far going smooth, all for one thing. Somehow, i had the blinker arm pressed down in the "turning left" position. Well when i went to plug in my car battary and start the car, it didn't start, i heard a little pop, and realized imediatly it was the blinker arm. I checked the fuses and everything, but the blinker wil not turn the lights on now. The hazards still work, so i know it isn't the bulb or anything, but the actual arm that turns the lights left OR right does not work. Havn't even begun to look into what is required to fix that, but that is a problem that will need to be addressed in the near future (until then turning with my hazard lights )

Second, Installed my indiglo lights successfully. That only took like 3-4 hours longer than i expected. I am a bit of a perfectionist, and have to have all the wires all pretty and stuff, soddered and such. Anyways, that was pretty easy, only had to pull them out one time to readjust them so it didn't catch on anything.

Third, i got my boost gauge and my oil pressure gauge. Now, i havn't read on here and can't til tomorrow ( i got class tomorrow at 10) so i gotta crash and do some homeworks in the morning, but i am unsure, although i believe, i will need to buy a metric thing for the pressure gauge, and well believe i need to buy the copper tubing, although i am unsure why i can't use the nylon, it is rated at 200 psi. So if anyone wants to say sure philip get the metric or not, well tell me please, or not.

and to add to that, I am almost 99.9% (only 99.8% actually) sure that autometer did not package a sealing nut and a ferrule. I got the screw that it would connect to, even though i will probably have to change it, but there is no chance i could have dropped it, there was only 1 in the bag (2 total complete between the oil and the boost gauge), i noticed it before i opened it. So i am i bit unsure what happened there, but it might be all ok in the end if i have to buy a new one in the end anyways.

Other than that, all these projects are being completed slowly but surely, got stuff yesterday and today, and i expect them to be done by thursday or so, i got stopped today by tefflon tape, which apparently i need, and with the possiblity of oil coming into my cockpit, i am not taking a chance.



To end this, really i just want to know the following:

Do i HAVE to get the copper tubing for the mechanical oil pressure gauge

Do i have to get a metric end for the oil presure gauge(i am not sure where i need to screw it in anyways.. )

Any idea what to look for with my turn signal not working, lights are all good, just the switch is not.


Other than that, i hope to hear from you guys soon, I will have pictures up sooner or later, and the reputation points I owe all of you will be awarded when i get the chance to just sit and do it, but beleive me, you guys will be getting them

-Philip

Yes, make sure you dont use nylon tubing with the mechanical pressure gauge. Upgrade to a copper or even SS line.

As far as you blinker goes, I went without blinkers for almost a year. I just recently fixed them, I went to a junkyard and get the blinker switch and wiper switch with the peice that goes around the steering column. It cost me $35 dollars and took about 10 minutes to install. Hopefully that the same problem you are having.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I don't advise on purchasing a turbo-back in your situation since you do live in California. Rather, you should just purchase a cat-back with resonators in place (at least one), in the South Bay cops don't really bother you, but they will if you show off. Like most said, you can find a lot of cheap systems on ebay that are pretty decent quality. You'll find mostly N1 style systems on there which is probably the most popular among DSMers.

Also just fyi, next time you have to get smogged, they might send you to a "test-only" center. They differ from regular smog shops in that they are more strict with the visual part of the test (i.e anything that might appear aftermarket w/ no carb sticker), and if you fail the actual emissions test, they cannot repair the car for you and retest. If you fail you would have to go to another shop or attempt to fix it yourself if you already know the reason why you failed.

So just keep in mind that if you don't have all the resources in order to reverse the mods, that you might want to make sure that everything appears to be legal and keeping the bling to a minimum.

Oh yeah and good choice on the K+N FIPK, I have that intake on my car along with a dejontool intake+intercooler piping w/ 1g bov and it sounds pretty nice (sounded better when I was on the T-25). Also I a 1g bov wouldn't be a bad choice like most people are suggesting. On my friends 2g he ran one and it sounded like an aftermarket bov, on my car however it sounds completely different. It might be due to my car not running very strong but I don't know really.

 

[turbodsm18]

I don't advise on purchasing a turbo-back in your situation since you do live in California. Rather, you should just purchase a cat-back with resonators in place (at least one), in the South Bay cops don't really bother you, but they will if you show off. Like most said, you can find a lot of cheap systems on ebay that are pretty decent quality. You'll find mostly N1 style systems on there which is probably the most popular among DSMers.

Also just fyi, next time you have to get smogged, they might send you to a "test-only" center. They differ from regular smog shops in that they are more strict with the visual part of the test (i.e anything that might appear aftermarket w/ no carb sticker), and if you fail the actual emissions test, they cannot repair the car for you and retest. If you fail you would have to go to another shop or attempt to fix it yourself if you already know the reason why you failed.

So just keep in mind that if you don't have all the resources in order to reverse the mods, that you might want to make sure that everything appears to be legal and keeping the bling to a minimum.

Oh yeah and good choice on the K+N FIPK, I have that intake on my car along with a dejontool intake+intercooler piping w/ 1g bov and it sounds pretty nice (sounded better when I was on the T-25). Also I a 1g bov wouldn't be a bad choice like most people are suggesting. On my friends 2g he ran one and it sounded like an aftermarket bov, on my car however it sounds completely different. It might be due to my car not running very strong but I don't know really.

This is why Im glad I dont live in California.

 

[Atuca]

welp i picked up teflon tape, 10 feet of copper tubing, and got two of those nuts that i swear i lost (came in package of two, only needed one)

cost me a total of 11 dollars!! Yea so everywere on the internet charges 10 bucks +shipping for the tubing, so i was happy

Anyways, no for the install.. Let me get back to you guys, i think, i was told i have to drain my oil to do this install, is that true? it makes sense as i am getting oil pressure, but anyays, i am due for an oil change anyways.

I hope it doesn't cost me 35 bucks to repair my blinker, that will suck >.< although, i feel like a real ass driving around without a blinker, i get honked at now

oh well, life of a DSMer with broke stuff

 

[turbodsm18]

welp i picked up teflon tape, 10 feet of copper tubing, and got two of those nuts that i swear i lost (came in package of two, only needed one)

cost me a total of 11 dollars!! Yea so everywere on the internet charges 10 bucks +shipping for the tubing, so i was happy

Anyways, no for the install.. Let me get back to you guys, i think, i was told i have to drain my oil to do this install, is that true? it makes sense as i am getting oil pressure, but anyays, i am due for an oil change anyways.

I hope it doesn't cost me 35 bucks to repair my blinker, that will suck >.< although, i feel like a real ass driving around without a blinker, i get honked at now

oh well, life of a DSMer with broke stuff

Your thinking $35 is alot, your talking about $900 for exhaust. $35 dollars is cheap, I finally decided to get it done so my car could pass inspection. If you want the peice that I got for $35, you can go to Mitsubishi and pick one up for $257.00 . In that case, Ill settle with $35 and used quality.

Also yes you will need to drain your oil, well let me rephrase that, you SHOULD drain your oil. Be carerfull and make sure that you have no leaks at the connections else you could be cleaning oil from the inside of your car and your face. Sounds like everything is coming along nicely.

Anyways, keep us posted on how everything works out.

-Kevin-

 

[Atuca]

would you like to explain the process of getting to the blinker relay, so that i could check it and get one while i am at pick and pull friday? I am getting the 1g BOV and such, so if i could get the blinker relay, that would be awsome. I hope that is what it is to fix it, i really feel wierd driving without one. If i can get it off a 1g, that would be ncie to know as well.

Thanks alot, i'll keep you guys informed!

and btw, i got my MBC today, so more reason to get my boost gauge installed. Although i have to install both my boost gauge and my oil pressure gauge, once i put the new a-piller installed over my old one, it will not come off without breaking..

That and i am about 4 lights short of a new full interior lighting receocoration.

Stuff is finally coming together.

 

[turbodsm18]

would you like to explain the process of getting to the blinker relay, so that i could check it and get one while i am at pick and pull friday? I am getting the 1g BOV and such, so if i could get the blinker relay, that would be awsome. I hope that is what it is to fix it, i really feel wierd driving without one. If i can get it off a 1g, that would be ncie to know as well.

Thanks alot, i'll keep you guys informed!

and btw, i got my MBC today, so more reason to get my boost gauge installed. Although i have to install both my boost gauge and my oil pressure gauge, once i put the new a-piller installed over my old one, it will not come off without breaking..

That and i am about 4 lights short of a new full interior lighting receocoration.

Stuff is finally coming together.

Allright, so does your blinker not work when ever you hit the switch up or down? If so it could be a couple of things. First check your fuses underneath the dash. The is a fuse specifically for the blinkers and even with it unplugged/blown, your flashers still work.

OR

Is your blinker/lights switch not moving at all (aka is it jammed)?

Eitherway, to replace that peice, you have to take off the steering column cover. It has three bolts on the underside. Now is a good time to unplug your battery also. Ok , now there should be two plugins on the back side of you blinker/wiper switch. Unplug these two and hold them out of the way. Now look at the peice from the side(as if you were looking in through your driver side window and you will see two phillips head screws. These are the only two screws holding this peice onto the steering column peice. Take these two screws out and the peice will slide right out.
To install the new peice, well just reverse the steps you used to take it out.

Let me if you need anymore help, I could maybe get you some pics or something.

-Kevin-

EDIT : I would get this part from a 2g, cause Its not the same as the 1g's

 

[turbodsm18]

Just read your previous post and it seems as if your blinker arm is jammed. That I guess is common considering I barely hit mine and it broke a little plastic peice on the inside.

Once again just follow my steps above and it should be really easy.

 

[Atuca]

your never going to believe this, well, at least i can't explain it.

I have been without a blinker for two days now. I unplugged my battery again, and was reinstalling the lights and plastic things on the left side of the vehical (fog lights, power mirrors, cruise control. After connecting the battery again, i accidentally pressed the control arm down as i put the cover on the speedometers (the black piece) well anyways, long story short

the blinker works!

i don't know how to explain it, it didn't work, and now it does.. so ..WTF

Anyways, i will need to probably custom add two more LEDs to the HVAC, it looks a bit on the purple side on the edges, other than that, only buttons left are the fog lights and the cruise control, the A/C button will need a bit more work, but will be completed as well. So than all there is left to do is where the milage shows, well, it is stil orange, even with the indiglos, so i will need to remove that, but i am going to the g/f's house til the weekend (and the junkyard ) so i had to have the car in one peice again. Anyways, if i can sneak online at her place i'll give you guys a heads up on the oil gauge, boost looked easy enough, just gotta get that oil pressure done correctly so i can put my a pillar back on, install my MBC, finish the blue LEDs, get the 1g BOV installed on a hard piped UICP with a 1g flange, and than, and than, hey wait where did all my money go?


Exhaust may have to wait til the end of the month

well that is the report of the day; i will still pull out my blinker in the morning, just in case it is broke and just for some reason is connected atm, so i can get a new peice when i get to the junkyard.

I got finals in two weeks (with projects per class..), going to a conference in san fransico the week after that for a project i am leading and been working on for the past 4 months, and gotta get my sexy car up looking good by the 25th for the meet in daly city. Just so many things going on in life, where did the time all go?

-Philip

 

[hun6over]

Hey attuca, i was wondering if you seen any convertible tops for 2g eclipse during your visits to the junkyards. Im from the bay too. Thanks. Good luck on your car.

P.S. glad you are asking all the questions that i would be asking. I learned alot from this thread.

 

[Atuca]

Hey attuca, i was wondering if you seen any convertible tops for 2g eclipse during your visits to the junkyards. Im from the bay too. Thanks. Good luck on your car.

P.S. glad you are asking all the questions that i would be asking. I learned alot from this thread.

Well I left the valley a day early, ... empty handed.

There were no 2gs at all in either of modesto or stocktons junk yards. I will be checking Newark's tuesday, i'll keep an eye out for you.

I found only about 10-15 1gs, between modesto and stockton, and not ONE BOV

So hopefully better luck at Newark's.

-UPDATE-

I have had the Boost gauge and the Oil pressure gauge for about a week now, and it has yet to be installed. My goal with going home was a) see g/f, and b) get my car on some jacks. Once i was down there i was going to pull my oil plug and get the oil pressure gauge done while the car was empty. Well i now know that the previous owner and nicely rounded off my oil drain plug.. So i with limited tools had no choice but to take it to an oil changer and have them try to get it off. They were able to and got me a new plug bolt, but they also filled up my car with oil so now it appears i will be waiting 2 months or so before i drop the oil and attempt to get the gauge on there (unless I go to the valley again, put it on jakcs, collect the new oil I drain and put it back in the car when i am done.. hmm ) But yea, i felt pretty bad i couldn't even manage to change my oil, i fail at life /emo /wrists

Anyways, hopefully when the time comes again, i am able to drain the oil and get the gauge on, in the mean time, i still will be looking where to install my boost gauge, and getting a squeek fixed in my shocks, and getting new tires, and getting my exhaust, and oh yea, getting my MBC installed.

There is your Atuca update, next on my list as of now is getting the boost gauge installed. I been reading around on the forums, and well, unless someone can link me to a pretty good how to install of a boost gauge, i am going to need a simpled down version. PM me for post if you could so that others can see the "simple version" of the boost gauge install. What i am looking for in particular is where to tap in. I could copy and paste every step that i need to do from other vfaqs, but i need the dumbed down version so that i can, who doesn't know where the intake plenum, after the throttle butterfly, is (where iw as told to tap in), can understand it.

Anyways, have a great night, and to anyone that can help me, thanks in advanced

 

[hun6over]

Hey, thanks dude. Are u refering to picknpull when you say junkyard? Because ill be hitting up several picknpulls soon so ill avoid the ones u have been to.

BTW, i saw someone on craiglist selling a 1g bov for 30 bucks.http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/280035930.html Good luck

 

[turbodsm18]

Well I left the valley a day early, ... empty handed.

There were no 2gs at all in either of modesto or stocktons junk yards. I will be checking Newark's tuesday, i'll keep an eye out for you.

I found only about 10-15 1gs, between modesto and stockton, and not ONE BOV

So hopefully better luck at Newark's.

-UPDATE-

I have had the Boost gauge and the Oil pressure gauge for about a week now, and it has yet to be installed. My goal with going home was a) see g/f, and b) get my car on some jacks. Once i was down there i was going to pull my oil plug and get the oil pressure gauge done while the car was empty. Well i now know that the previous owner and nicely rounded off my oil drain plug.. So i with limited tools had no choice but to take it to an oil changer and have them try to get it off. They were able to and got me a new plug bolt, but they also filled up my car with oil so now it appears i will be waiting 2 months or so before i drop the oil and attempt to get the gauge on there (unless I go to the valley again, put it on jakcs, collect the new oil I drain and put it back in the car when i am done.. hmm ) But yea, i felt pretty bad i couldn't even manage to change my oil, i fail at life /emo /wrists

Anyways, hopefully when the time comes again, i am able to drain the oil and get the gauge on, in the mean time, i still will be looking where to install my boost gauge, and getting a squeek fixed in my shocks, and getting new tires, and getting my exhaust, and oh yea, getting my MBC installed.

There is your Atuca update, next on my list as of now is getting the boost gauge installed. I been reading around on the forums, and well, unless someone can link me to a pretty good how to install of a boost gauge, i am going to need a simpled down version. PM me for post if you could so that others can see the "simple version" of the boost gauge install. What i am looking for in particular is where to tap in. I could copy and paste every step that i need to do from other vfaqs, but i need the dumbed down version so that i can, who doesn't know where the intake plenum, after the throttle butterfly, is (where iw as told to tap in), can understand it.

Anyways, have a great night, and to anyone that can help me, thanks in advanced

Alright, I will suck it up and try and do my best. At the end of your Fuel Rail (Fuel Rail Outlet) you will see the stock fuel pressure regulator. Looks like this...

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On this fuel pressure regulator, you will see a vacumm hose which goes to a solenoid located on the firewall. You are going to want to cut that the vacumn hose in half and put a T fitting in it. It looks like this.....

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You want to reconnect the hose you just cut to this t fitting. I have mine set up so that this vacumn hose is on the two nipples that are inline with each other. On the nipple that runs perpindicular that has not yet been used, this is where you are going to tap you boost gauge line into.

Now you need to get that line in to cabin of the car. To do this there is two ways. You can drill a new hole in the firewall and put a rubber grommet in it OR you can poke a hole in the steering column boot and use a screwdriver to help you get the line. Ok depending on what type of line you use ( I personally run a regular rubber vacumn hose) you need to connect this hose to the back of the gauge.

OK, now for the wiring, I beleive there are two wires on a mechanical Boost gauge. There is a ground wire and a power wire, These are both for the light. The ground wire just find a good ground screw and attach it using a connector. Ok, for the power wire of the light, you need to find a wire that only has power when the lights are on (So the gauge doesnt glow during the day). An easy solution is to use the fuse for the gauge cluster located in the fuse box. Other people may sau differently but this is all about opinion I guess.

Ok. Obviously somewhere in there you should have mounted the gauge pod.

Now its time to turn the key to accesories and turn your lights on and see if the backlight comes on. If that works I would go ahead and start your car an make sure the gauge works correctly. I beleive the vacumn should be at at 18HG when the car is fully warm and at idle. Check to see if you can hear any leaks and takes it for a test drive.

Hopefully this was easy to uncerstand, let me know if you need a clearer description of anything

-Kevin-

 

[Atuca]

yea i hit pick and pull in modesto and stockton (in the valley) and i will be hitting up Newarks pick and pull on tuesday. If you see a 1g BOV wanna hook me up? I'll keep an eye out for your top, but i rarely see any 2g, i've only seen one in the last 3 trips to both bplaces.. although i did see a 3g yesterday, all sorts of mashed up..

and btw, i think this works for the boost gauge. I read i wouldn't have to cut into the hose, but anyways, i think these pics show where i have to put it.

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205099&highlight=how+to+install+a+boost+gauge

that works eh? I thought there is where he wanted me to go, but the vfaq i got said there was a spot already opened up in the hose, so i figured that wasn't it, but reguardless, that is easy, i can do that tomorrow.

*edit* and as i say that you post that. I think i am much better off now. With more than one person saying to tap into that same place, it must be true. So thanks alot. I have time today, and wil be going down the list for rep points.

Thanks a million !

 

[turbodsm18]

Ya, that is how you install it, I wish i would have seen that before I typed up my description above.

 

[Atuca]

no no, your description above clarifies everything i have tried to pul together myself. Alot of the walk throughs here assume you know the basics. With trying to learn the basics and than some with the modding, EVERY bit of help is appriecitated. I know now that more than just one person has tapped into that place now, so i feel much safer knowing you agree with that post and pic.

Thanks a million Kevin

 

[Atuca]

OK! Boost gauge install complete

Now for a few questions/clarifications. The gauge reads at about -20 while idling when warmed up, normal right? And i noticed, unlike my stock boost gauge, that it is reading boost only at peak pretty much, it is at -20 for the first few seconds, than all of a sudden it jumps to 11-12 psi when accelerating, i assume that is turbo lag, and boost works like that? my stock gauge kinda slowly goes up while i accelerate, but that is not how it works really right?

Anyways, i think i am all good, but i'll take an explanation if anyone wants to. Once i am sure that is all gravy, i will work twards installing the MBC, that is after i check for leaks i suppose

Thanks