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98 talon tsi road racer

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I do not think it would be neccesary, I think inside of the doors tying the main hoop to the front should do it. or under the floor pan, right up against it, so it could also be welded to floor pan, if no cage is present.
But always tying F to R subframes and even a diagonal from side to side.

I am trying again.

No dice.

Trying again

Well finally, these are the pics at the chiro.

Hopefully start on the cage next wk.
 

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I see pictures whhhoo. Freaking awsome how people have jacked up the car and messed up the inboard rail. Mine is in the same boat. Looks like it has a new left front control arm tho, so one less part to buy. I think u need to show that ford pick up some love to, LOL.
 
Not much to report, been busy getting my grandson car ready to go to chassis man and I am glad to say that his is in better shape than mine, the bottom of car has not seen as many curbs or run over things as mine.
This other car is being built at the same time as mine, it is a 95 eclipse gst, and will try to get both cars to the track at same time, we will start building the roll cages next wk.
We are going to go w/ a 2.0 NA on his so it will fall in the smaller class. (MP3)

AND we have a buddy that has another gst w/ no engine, he might go with a 1.6, so we may be able to have a DSM in MP4 also.

It would be a blast if we could get all 3 cars to the track at the same time.

arrowhead

I see pictures whhhoo. Freaking awsome how people have jacked up the car and messed up the inboard rail. Mine is in the same boat. Looks like it has a new left front control arm tho, so one less part to buy. I think u need to show that ford pick up some love to, LOL.

Yes you are correct, the rails take a lot of abuse and there is not much reinforcements at all.

You seem to be making headway on your build, I am glad.

The Ford is a 93, and you are right it needs some attention, but I look at it as my work truck, except for the out side, the thing only has 110k miles on it and the interior is fine. I will get around to painting it one of these years.
 
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Look at the floor on pass. and driver side where you would rest your feet before it turns up to become the firewall, there is where the first relief is at the bottom of car, remember a lot of these were put in by factory as safety so the car would absorb impact so it is the weakest point,

The floor in that area as you are looking down should be flat . you may have to remove rug to see it or get under car and see if you have damage.
 
I jacked up my car on the rail last year.....moved over to the other side and heard a noise...looked over at the drivers side and the car was SINKING down around the jack!!!! pushed a big lump up under the pedals and i had to beat the floorpan back down with a 4lb mallet.....stupid butter-frame cars! I couldnt believe it. My ford focuses are very sturdy on the rails and I never had an issue using the frame rail section as a jack point.

i have yet to see an eclipse with a nice looking underbody. they all cave in/smash/distort even when new on at least the 2g's :(
 
I jacked up my car on the rail last year.....moved over to the other side and heard a noise...looked over at the drivers side and the car was SINKING down around the jack!!!! pushed a big lump up under the pedals and i had to beat the floorpan back down with a 4lb mallet.....stupid butter-frame cars! I couldnt believe it. My ford focuses are very sturdy on the rails and I never had an issue using the frame rail section as a jack point.

i have yet to see an eclipse with a nice looking underbody. they all cave in/smash/distort even when new on at least the 2g's :(

Well from what I have observed I agree 100% w/ you.

So far, what I have seen is really bad ,surprise no one has built sub frame connectors for these cars that I have seen, although have not look for them but have not run across any write up on one.

This should be one of the first mods made to these cars, since they are usually overly abused,

Maybe some of the more experiance members can chime in w/ their ideas

Thanks for looking in.
 
yes much like the fox-bodied mustangs of the 87-93 era a simple sub-frame connector would be great. theirs used the front seat bolts for some of the connection points.

i have not seen anything like that but I know exactly what you mean.
 
Hi guys.

Not much to report but now I have the roll cage and getting ready to do some work on it, will first tie the rear strut towers so I can proceed with the rear 1/4 panels removal of course after making overlays of fiber.

I have to make 3 of these, I am thinking of a hopefully 200# removal on these parts, this I will do w/ a plasma cutter from a friend.

After I make the parts I will make the flares to the glass parts maybe about a 4 incher so I still have a lot of glass work to do.

I am also taking measurements to build a subframe connector and maybe do it out of aluminum.

I will post some pics as I go along on the panels.

Thanks for looking in.

arrowhead
 
Hi everyone.

Thanks to all for your e mails and calls on my project, it is encouraging to receive everyones support.

Even if I have not posted in about a month I have not been idle. putting out a lot of pieces for my car and my grandson, at the same time getting some parts together for when I am done with the glass work.

I have a friend that had his front right fender smashed and ask me if I could make him one out of fiber, maybe some of you may recall I was not going to make these for my car since they really did not weight that much, only 6 1/2 #, so I went and made his fender after weighting it, it came in at 2 1/2#, so of course he wanted the left one made also, to make a long story short, I have made 6 sets already, so I have saved another 8#, every bit helps.

The pics follow If I do it right.

Again thanks to everyone.
 

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I know men and believe me it makes me feel bad I have not done it yet, as promised before, but I am very anxious to make progress on my car and there is always something coming up.

I am on my way to get more materials as I am running out fast.

Thanks
 
Well now that I have twice as much work to do, having 2 cars going up at the same time, is not an easy job but at the same time it encourages both of us to keep working hard.

For those that want to look at the other car, my grandsons, he has also started a journal under road racing, there will be minor changes to his car, but it will be basically the same as far as weight is concern.

I have finished the rear 1/4 panels and they turn out real nice, they were a pain to do and made some changes from the first idea, I will still cut about an inch off the perimeter, but I went with the fiber all the way to the runners or the small sill where the hatch rest, this will allow me to fasten the new piece there instead of below the 1/4 window as I had thought originally also did away completely with the 1/4 window opening, save the plexi expense and work of shaping it in.

Here are the pictures:
 

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Im so confused on how this car is gonna be put back together, but i cant wait!

Why are you confused?

Everything will go back on basically the same way as stock except no welds to these parts they will be attached with fasteners to the remaining metal, or new brackets, if you have something in particular or in general let me know and I will clarify.

Thanks for looking in.
 
Can't wait to see your cage. Its going to have to be pretty beefy to put rigidity back into the chassis. Great work!

Kevin

The main points of the body are going to stay, the undercarriage will be reinforced,
I will be cutting to the outside of the spot welds, it may be kind of difficult to visualize.

The cage will tie all of the cabin and all strut towers, plus I will build some kind of subframe connector, the main hoop and front hoop will be welded to that also, it is what you have down there really what counts, to me from the door sills up it is only fascia.

Thanks for your input

BTW your car is really turning out real nice, are you going to road race it or only time attack.
 
they will be attached with fasteners to the remaining metal, or new brackets

I too am very curious regarding what type of fasteners you will be using. Do you have a picture or a link? :thumb:

~Kevin
 
Sorry did not answer before, but my computer has been giving me problem lately.

There will probably be many different fasteners, from dzus, screws, bolts, some nylon, and of course rivets and blind inserts.

Around the windshields they will probably be large rivets, these will go through the
plexiglass, fiber roof and lip of metal around perimeter of frame, also the fiber roof will be attached to this frame with a product I use, called super bond which is basically and epoxy used for many things but it is formulated for fiber in particular,
expensive but very good, then the mandatory brackets on the inside.

The rear quarter I have made them so they can be fastened to the original bracket in the rear bottom where the back bumper mounts and the perimeter of the hatch mounting all the way to the top, it is like a tooth cap if you will like to think of it that way.
The pass door will be non functional, but removable.

It looks so far that I will make the front cap one piece, that would include both fenders, the front bumper- spoiler with the headlights shape integrated, this will be held in place by various brackets and fasteners for quick removal,

I will take some pics of the places where I plan on mounting the parts, of course this takes a little fabrication.

All mounting points will be reinforced with block foam where possible just like the perimeters of the wheelwells and hood.

I hope this clarifies some of the questions if any suggestions please let me know.

Thanks.
 
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