The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

97 GSX: 2.3 Stroker with a T4 FF TS HTA3076

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yeah thats what i was thinking. Oh well though. It's not like GT isnt proven. I'm envious of yours. Curious if you can ever uograde the bearings/shaft for a 35r and keep your center.

That thought has crossed my mind as well, ill probably be calling FP soon to discuss some details regarding the center section and will be asking then.
 
A couple shots of a cruise we did a few weeks ago. Keep in mind she still has the 'under construction' signs on in terms of looks, but I think she looks alright for the current state.
 

Attachments

  • Group1.jpg
    Group1.jpg
    28.1 KB · Views: 169
  • EngineBay1.jpg
    EngineBay1.jpg
    54.8 KB · Views: 179
  • Rolling1.jpg
    Rolling1.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 168
^I have some thoughts there, just haven't had time to do it, stay tuned though, I will be tackling that once things settle down.
 
Currently away on a work trip but a quick update: Car started running rich by a whole point (from 11.5 to 10.5) at wot and I've even seen it rich at idle. A little baffled, from my initial boost leak test I've found a leak somewhere at the head to intake mani connection, not sure if this could cause these types off issues on sd. Thoughts? I already tested the e85 content and it's nuts on.

As for power, once I figure out the above issue, I'm going to a ebc to try and hold boost better up top and I'm gonna open up the tial wastegates and put some stiffer springs in. Not sure on what's currently installed but I think a lower boost spring set could be causing my lower than expected power numbers? Thoughts?

I'll keep you updated, keep your ideas rolling, I need some sd tuning theory know how in here for sure!
 
No I've got the iat and map sensor both. Keep in mind the car was ran for roughly 1000 miles prior to this afr issue too.
 
Intake manifold is off, waiting on STM to get my new heat barrier gasket out the door. Found two of the manifold to head bolts were loose and there was e85 'black goo' seeping out under the gasket, I think it is safe to say there was a leak there. Ill post back when she is back together and we have a new BLT done.

While I am waiting I am going to fab the bracket for the EBC and get it wired in and also work on a couple other things in the bay as well as some external mods.

More to come!
 
It works! Looks good whats it made of?

Thanks man, its made of 5/16ths inch thick acrylic that a friend scored for free (figured why not, if it breaks Ill try something else). The struts are just a combination of stuff from Ace Hardware. :p

*****Updated post #77 to inlcude my evo 3 16g dyno graph for comparison. Hopefully this will help to highlight just how much this new setup matches the evo 3 setup.*****
 
man i am just seeing the dyno graph. i saw the raw numbers and forgot to come back. The dyno curve is really special. love the way it makes torque quick and holds it for over 2500 RPM. this is the way to run a hta3076. wish i had room to do this in my evo1. nice work!!!

there a guy on evo forums that did a simliar thing. "driftos hta3076" very pretty curve. made 575whp on a 2.0 with spool only a few 100 slower than whats seen here.
 
Thanks guys! Yeah, Drifto's setup was exactly what I used as a bench mark for mine. I have some searching to do on a little more power, but I feel that I can get pretty close to matching his WHP with some extra digging!
 
Took the car and did some hardcore cleaning on her. This is what a quick wash, claybar, and wax can do. I forgot that she could still look half decent. Ill try and get some more pics of her at the Red Door Meet (count was +300 cars that night). She was parked on a little slant which gave me less than a finger width between the pavement and the bottom of the new lip, sexy pic IMO! Anyway, found out that she has a decent fuel leak from the O-ring that the fuel sender is sealed with, new one should be here tomorrow. :thumb:

No news on the odd WOT AFRs, still fighting it... :confused:

Enjoy!

*On lookers caught on camera! HAHA
 

Attachments

  • RedDoorMeet.jpg
    RedDoorMeet.jpg
    54.4 KB · Views: 162
  • Waxed.jpg
    Waxed.jpg
    36.8 KB · Views: 149
Anyway, found out that she has a decent fuel leak from the O-ring that the fuel sender is sealed with, new one should be here tomorrow. :thumb:

No news on the odd WOT AFRs, still fighting it... :confused:

Car sure looks good.
I hope the o-ring arrangement on the wally 450 is better than the kit that comes with the wally 255. I know the 255 install has been done thousands of times, but I still can't get over how funky it looked to me when I put mine "together". For one thing it re-used the stock plastic spacer (going on memory now - this could be bad) to back up the o-ring to the "correct" position, but the spacer sits crooked on top of the fuel pump, so the o-ring also sits crooked. Secondly, I don't think the o-ring that came with the kit was exactly the right size. Hard to tell because of swelling of the old original one, but I think the new one that came with the wally install kit was a tad small.
Anyway, I couldn't stand it, so I replaced the o-ring and the spacer with 1 piece of soft viton tubing about 15/16" long. The OD and ID of the viton tubing had to be just right, but luckily there is that size. It fit nice and snug, and couldn't go anywhere, and has no possibility of leaking. I ordered the viton tubing from Small Parts, which is now swallowed up by Amazon, but they still have most of the same stuff - in the industrial and scientific section. [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Black-Viton-Soft-Tubing-Length/dp/B003TJ9YRE/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1394337493&sr=1-5&keywords=small+parts+rubber+tubing[/ame]

On your AFR mystery, this might be totally random, but I see you are using an AEM wideband. Right this moment there is a guy in the "Official Vipec Thread" in evolutionm who is saying that his AFRs are 1.5 off and he is also using an AEM wideband. Now with the Vipec you can set a "target" AFR in every cell of your fuel table. So this is very strange. So I wonder if you and him are having some kind of an AEM anomaly? Vipec by the way recommends the Innovate LC-1 (now the LC-2). The member over in that thread is 211ratsbud.
 
I'm new to these amazing vehicles I'm looking to buy a 1995 awd eagle talon 5 speed but it needs an engine therefore I found a jdm 6 bolt but would it be a direct swap or what has to be done any help would be much appreciated
 
Here are a couple more photos. Home-made lip FTW! LOLROFL:hellyeah:
 

Attachments

  • RDM-1LIP.jpg
    RDM-1LIP.jpg
    49.1 KB · Views: 134
  • RDM-2LIP.jpg
    RDM-2LIP.jpg
    51.5 KB · Views: 152
Here is the timeslip, got more work to do but I am pretty satisfied! Get a few more kinks worked out and go back for more! LOL
 

Attachments

  • 11.9 Timeslip.jpg
    11.9 Timeslip.jpg
    34.5 KB · Views: 104
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top