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96 gsx problem

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badassgsx

10+ Year Contributor
64
0
Feb 12, 2012
gustine, California
Hi guys i am new to the forum and to dsm

I just bought a 96 elipse gsx and the guy i got it from put alot of money into

the motor, engine was rebuilt but after 4000 miles of driving it he said its got

signs of crank walk. I have done alot of research on crank walk and from what

i see is aftermarket pressure plates seem to be what is causing it. by the way

my car has a stage 3 clutch but anyways my question to you guys is can i put

a stock clutch in and it should be fine? I put my hand on the flywheel and had

my dad press the clutch and i could feel movement but very very little.

any help here would be greatly appreciated thanks guys and they cars are

awesome. :hellyeah:
 
I would not waste my time replacing the clutch if you are feeling movement, any other cw symptoms? I would definitely measure the movement, if bad enough you are better off swapping for a 6 bolt (like I did).. You will thank yourself in the end.
 
Crank walk can not be fixed... there are several people that think little things done "Main stud dowels to keep main cap girdle from shifting main studs, Plugging the 7 bolt oil squirters, Graphite coating the thrust bearing, Dremeling the leading edge of the thrust bearing (Don't do this unless you know what you are doing), Disable the clutch switch so you don't have to have the clutch depressed to start car etc.. but its ones opinion to the next changing the pressure plate isn't going to do anything. if its that bad id start looking for a 6 bolt engine to throw in it if it is still drivable run it till its dead then swap... good luck...
 
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the clutch barely grabs so replacing the clutch then driving it until its dead is an option but i dont want to ruin anything other than the short block. will anything else get ruined if i do this? and also what six bolt should i use with my current head and intake? stock head and intake
 
Crankwalk is enough to scare you/me/us out of a car. If you wanna play ot safe I'd say you may look into the 6-bolt swap. But there are plenty of 2g's that have naever had CW. Gotta way your options. I can say however if you look at a 6-bolt swap, look and see how nice a job they did i.e. are there tons of connectors/sensors not connected to anything?

Good luck
 
If u think u can get alittle more driving time out of it, put a oem replacement.

As far as a 6bolt, find one from a 90-91, if your going to be using your 2g head and want to use arp head studs, you will have to get the bolt holes in the head hollowed out.

I'm my opinion your better off getting a full 6bolt longblock with intake manifold and dropping in there.
 
i dont have a stock turbo this motor has forged pistons never had crankwalk if

thats what it is until it got rebuilt what do you recommend i do i would love to

fix this motor the guy i got car from said he put 8k into this motor and if i do

put a stock motor in am i still going to be able to use all the stuff i have

and get same hp
 
A stock motor wont hold up or put out as much hp as a built one. Thats why we have to pay to have them built but you can still make pretty good power out of a stocker. If you do a few important mods like head studs and a good head gasket you could do alright for a while with a mostly stock motor.
 
First thing I would do is pull the oil pan off and see if you have any metal shavings, if you have some shaving most likely your bearings are going bad. Also check the crankshaft play to see if its in spec. All info can be found on vfaq.com. If you do have signs of wear, i would pull apart the block get it hot tanked, If the walls are in good shape just get a fresh hone and make sure the block is straight and aligned. Assuming your pistons and rods are in good shape, i would just get the crank cut, micropolished and fitted with the appropriate bearing size. If your not on a tight budget i would get the whole block blueprinted and balanced with the flywheel/clutch you will be using. With this process you'll have a piece of mind that everything is in proper spec. In my opinion crankwalk is a little over rated, with a proper break in method and taking care of maintenence, your motor should be perfectly fine. I have rebuilt multiple 7 bolts and have not yet seen one of them walk.
 
i dont have a stock turbo this motor has forged pistons never had crankwalk if

thats what it is until it got rebuilt what do you recommend i do i would love to

fix this motor the guy i got car from said he put 8k into this motor and if i do

put a stock motor in am i still going to be able to use all the stuff i have

and get same hp

i just looked up on the net and some are saying that changing the crank and thrust bearings "MIGHT" take care of the problem again i say might because i have no personal experience of this working... but regardless of this working, it has already walked once so i am sure the chances of it happening again are likely. so by the amount of money you will be spending to fix this problem would far out weigh buying a new engine and having it swapped out especially when the other motor is just gonna walk again.. my suggestions is the 90 91 1g 6bolt they are much better and you don't have to worry about crank walk again at least not as likely, but if you really want to keep the forged pistons and upgrades n shiot.. find a 7bolt block from a 99 that have revised thrust bearing in them that's about all you can do... good luck bro just remember it may be a pain now but it will be a bigger pain down the road bwahahaha but still,,,, dsm's frigin rock....... DSM FOR LIFE!!!

A stock motor wont hold up or put out as much hp as a built one. Thats why we have to pay to have them built but you can still make pretty good power out of a stocker. If you do a few important mods like head studs and a good head gasket you could do alright for a while with a mostly stock motor.

are you saying new studs and better head gasket is going to give him more power on a stock engine?? LOL maybe i read it wrong but that's what i am getting and with it being decent maintenance with the head gasket and the studs being a good upgrade for more power down the road.. neither will add horsepower... but hey maybe i am wrong LOL but yeah no i don't think so...

First thing I would do is pull the oil pan off and see if you have any metal shavings, if you have some shaving most likely your bearings are going bad. Also check the crankshaft play to see if its in spec.
and i totally agree with this as a starting point for all you know it might not even be crank walk and it might just be a bad thrust bearing or clutch being wore down or something along that line .. doesn't hurt to check before buying something you don't need.. Good Luck!!
 
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I read an article from a motorsports company quite familiar with the 4g63. They theorized that the block oil squirters were a possible culprit in crank walk. Look at the oil lubrication system in the block.6bolt &7bolt have different style squirters and most else the same. I'm plugging mine on the rebuild.
 
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