2G 95 GSX barn find, first steps recommendations

[TC1995]

Trying to save this 1995 manual GSX no sunroof VIN# 0001995 car.

What I know so far, (134,xxx) miles and that the car sat open to the elements with busted driver window for at least past 8+ yrs. It was in an accident obviously and never repaired. Allegedly it was running and driving when it was brought to a shop for repairs. That's basically the full extent of what we know.

I plan to rebuild everything myself, I've had two '95 GSX so I'm decently familiar with the platform but that was 15yrs ago. My goal is to rebuild the car properly (doing necessary things for longevity, rust remediation, prevention, updates etc) to keep it forever as always regretted selling previous ones.

My #1 priority currently is that I want to get the car running and moving under its own power before anything else to fully stress test systems before a full rebuild and teardown.

With such an unknown basket case and sitting for so long I want to see what everyone's thoughts are on priorities to tackle first or in order. Generally this is what I'm thinking right now.

1. Clean everything. Remove debris, dirt, leaves, spare parts, extra wire and cap wires that might be live from hack job splices into harness etc.

2. Document what modifications I can identify such as the A'PEXi controller, turbo, intercooler, any ECU stuff etc.

3. Did already sort of see that engine is free as it seemed to have some compression while in gear rolling vs not in gear.

4. Need to check all fluids (already saw that oil is in there and darker but no immediate red flags)

5. Camera scope all cylinders, intake intercooler, turbo, gas tank, radiator etc.

6. Get a battery and see if we have any power, ensure fuse boxes are getting power, inspect all fuses and relays. Not sure if I should disconnect fuel pump before giving power in likely scenario that crud is in the tank.

7. Provided most things are getting power Code read the car to see if I can glean any info from any past stored codes or history of the car at all.

8. Pull and bench test starter and ignition system, get new plugs and maybe wires

9. Drain gas tank and change oil and other fluids as needed.

10. Test fuel pump and lines, run fresh gas from auxiliary tank if this one is gone

11. Lube oil everything and try to crank?

Definitely missing stuff but this is first draft of what I'm thinking

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[99dsmer4g63]

Check the timing belt out before trying to start it. I’d pull the plugs and shut off the fuel and crank it for a good 15 seconds x2 before trying to fire it too.

-Daniel

 

[TC1995]

Mhm timing belt is good idea, don't want to turn a good engine into a bad engine . Thanks!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Inspect anything that is rubber for dry rot like coolant hoses, vacuum lines and brake lines. Cant tell if the couplers for the intercooler piping is rubber or silicone, but when you do a boost leak test, youll find out if the system is leaking or no.

Remove the strut bar and check for rust on the strut towers underneath
The battery doesnt look like it has a tie down.
The strut bar is very close to the battery terminal. if the battery jumps and hits the bar because you hit a bump, that could be very bad.

 

[jesse12345]

I hate to be that guy but I'll be real shocked if your drivers side floor pan isn't completely rotten. When you get to lifting the carpet I'd like to know what she looks like underneath. I too got one of my cars with a blown out drivers window and I had to weld in a floor pan due to the water sitting on the floor.

Before starting do as other have said and check timing belt. I'd also just drain all fluids and put fresh stuff in. It looks like you will have your hands full on this one but they are definitely worth it.

 

[import47]

replace hoses plugs compression and send in the ecu to get inspected

 

[miliman13]

look forward to this thread
Strip interior and lift it to inspect belly.

 

[TC1995]

Inspect anything that is rubber for dry rot like coolant hoses, vacuum lines and brake lines. Cant tell if the couplers for the intercooler piping is rubber or silicone, but when you do a boost leak test, youll find out if the system is leaking or no.

Remove the strut bar and check for rust on the strut towers underneath
The battery doesnt look like it has a tie down.
The strut bar is very close to the battery terminal. if the battery jumps and hits the bar because you hit a bump, that could be very bad.

Haven't inspected the lines yet but will do that soon. Very good point about the battery, I definitely will make sure it is secure and has caps to help prevent sorting etc.

I hate to be that guy but I'll be real shocked if your drivers side floor pan isn't completely rotten. When you get to lifting the carpet I'd like to know what she looks like underneath. I too got one of my cars with a blown out drivers window and I had to weld in a floor pan due to the water sitting on the floor.

Before starting do as other have said and check timing belt. I'd also just drain all fluids and put fresh stuff in. It looks like you will have your hands full on this one but they are definitely worth it.

I'm not too worried I have a welder so if it needs them it needs them, I just got it cleaned out today so once I tear the carpet out I'll add a picture!

replace hoses plugs compression and send in the ecu to get inspected

When you say send in ECU, where would you send it in to check just a performance shop like black sheep tuning in Charlotte NC? (I'm in the Raleigh NC).


Was able to get the car mostly cleaned out today in preparation for interior removal so I can easily access everything and fuel pump etc. with how moldy etc it is etc I don't want to spend any time actually inside the vehicle until I have a good respiratory ( 3M-Remediation-Respirator-68097) and hazmat suit ( I did talk with an OSHA safety person about proper PPE for a job like this and will likely be getting some better gloves as well)

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This will likely be all I'll get to before I leave for the holidays but will jump back into it January for interior teardown

I'm actually very pleased with the overall condition, all interior plastics are here only damaged piece is center console but looks repairable. Even initial inspections shell between and beneath the seats etc looks really clean

 

[ZombieTalon]

Think it's already been said but definitely do the timing belt and while you're at it I'd say do the head gasket. Cars been sitting for god knows how long so replacing it can't hurt. Even if it turns out to be mint it gives you opportunity to peel the timing cover off and see if anything behind it is amiss. Also get yourself an OEM Evo 9 timing belt as they're made of kevlar and run $100 less than HKS.

 

[TC1995]

Ooh the kevlar belt that's a hack for sure, thanks!

 

[TC1995]

Was able to scope the cylinders before getting rained out and pulling the car into the garage but cylinders 1,2&3 look good to me!

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I'm glad to see used plugs in it rather than brand new ones as well, as it looks like I definitely was running just fine before.

 

[TC1995]

Finally back from traveling and got into the car more today on some inspections and remainder of tests. Was able to finally get cylinder 4 scoped and spark plug pulled, motor is spinning very easily and very smooth, turbo looks like it's in good shape, no shaft play.

And removed weird noise vibration interference on the strut bar that was obviously contacting the underside of the hood as it's destroyed and sticky .

Also decided to start cleaning up the wiring harness and removing all the old weird audio stuff to help trace things to start with if needed.

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[DreamChaser7]

When you say send in ECU, where would you send it in

ECMTuning

 

[jed344]

Inspect everything. A close friend of mine after many year's acquired a 99 gsx 5 spd with 87k almost all original that jumped time back in 2009 and sat for 15+ year's. This car did sit inside luckily but still need a intensive go threw.

He ended up replacing essentially anything rubber from hoses, bushings, ect. Fuel pump, old wiring that was looking sketchy. Took 3 year's to go threw it top to bottom.
We built the motor so it does still have VIN matching block but the point is that for a complete deal to make it 100% again took this long and this much work.

Yes he did powder coat, re zinc bolt ect. The fact still stood that from sitting without moving for that long thing's where in bad shape.

Just go over it all and assume anything rubber may be bad off the bat. This was with him and myself and few other's all involved and we have been in this scene for 20 year's and have ton's of parts and our own car's. This is not meant to scare or discourage you but instead just to influence you to go threw it thoroughly so when done it's right and work's as expected. These car's are only getting harder to find and deserve this attention now when being saved imo.

 

[TC1995]

ECMTuning

oh..duh.. i had ecmlinkv3 on my old car so dont know why i didnt think of that immediately...thanks!!

Inspect everything. A close friend of mine after many year's acquired a 99 gsx 5 spd with 87k almost all original that jumped time back in 2009 and sat for 15+ year's. This car did sit inside luckily but still need a intensive go threw.

He ended up replacing essentially anything rubber from hoses, bushings, ect. Fuel pump, old wiring that was looking sketchy. Took 3 year's to go threw it top to bottom.
We built the motor so it does still have VIN matching block but the point is that for a complete deal to make it 100% again took this long and this much work.

Yes he did powder coat, re zinc bolt ect. The fact still stood that from sitting without moving for that long thing's where in bad shape.

Just go over it all and assume anything rubber may be bad off the bat. This was with him and myself and few other's all involved and we have been in this scene for 20 year's and have ton's of parts and our own car's. This is not meant to scare or discourage you but instead just to influence you to go threw it thoroughly so when done it's right and work's as expected. These car's are only getting harder to find and deserve this attention now when being saved imo.

No worries, thankfully im finally at a place in my life of not needing to daily it and so given i never plan on selling it i for sure want to take my time and really go through it all in detail. Working on building a network of other folks in the area slowly and always appreciate the input. Yeah anything that looks worn or trashed im going to eventually replace, especially wiring as my last car had so many gremlins from butchered and spliced harness. The 49' buick in the picture behind the car is getting the full treatment wiring wise as well, because that was all cloth insulated, which has obviously since evaporated and now shorts everything to the steel body.

 

[TC1995]

Garage is cleaned out to work on the car finally. Did a few different things.

New battery (3 weeks to order as allegedly needed group size 86?) but just went with interstate battery from Costco for $140. Eventually will likely update for audio purposes but to get car back running should be fine.

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Put on new connectors for battery terminal as these ones were shot bonus for price $8, and for having easy auxiliary accessory attachment points, I'm thinking permanent install for trickle charger etc.

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Checked out pretty well what is and isn't getting power in the car right now.
Ignition chime is working
Dash cluster is on but left side is burned out, potentiometer switch works to dim dash lights
Electric locks and rear wiper are good
Driver mirror after some working back and forth adjusts vertically but not laterally, passenger side mirror adjustable in all 4 directions,
OBDII port gets power and was able to pull codes, only code stored was a P0115 engine coolant temp sensor code. Thinking possible overheating when car was crashed?

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Headlights both sides work, high beams only driver side, blinkers work except driver rear, tail lights and 3rd brake work as well except for driver side. AC and heat switch temp and blower all turned on, unsure about temps until I replace filters and deep clean don't want to breathe it all in. When supplying power to the fuel pump connector up front in engine bay on and off I did seem to hear it kicking on and off so we will test that option for draining the fuel from the tank using fuel pump and disconnecting fuel from the rail into bucket. Also tested all normal fuses in engine side fuse box and they are good.

Lastly just did a radiator flush with distilled water found a forum post about doing a full flush for all 1.85 gal. But at this point just wanted eyes on condition of what's in there especially with radiator cap looking so crusty might lend itself towards the overheating theory.

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However when radiator was flushed looked good and not rusty muddy or dirty at all quite clean all things considered. I will use as is to try and start the car eventually to get it idling then do a few more radiator flushes before either a full system flush or green 50/50 coolant swap depending on how things with the flushes and overfill look.

Next will be oil change to get eyes on that condition wise as well as draining the gas tank.

 

[import47]

When u when u do the gastank replace all the rubber fuel lines and do the fuel pump 255 Fuel filter

Dont forget to block off the egr dr pepper or which ever works best

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Fix the coolant temp sensor problem before you try to start it.

-Daniel

 

[TC1995]

When u when u do the gastank replace all the rubber fuel lines and do the fuel pump 255 Fuel filter

Dont forget to block off the egr dr pepper or which ever works best

Hadn't even heard of egr block off before thanks for the suggestion! I definitely plan on replacing fuel lines etc but once I get it started and idling

Fix the coolant temp sensor problem before you try to start it.

-Daniel

Mhm good idea they're pretty cheap and forgot that it would probably partially cut fuel and other things if I don't address it beforehand, making it hard to get it idling prop

 

[TC1995]

Got everything situated for next phase of testing. Don't seem to be getting fuel at the rail. Fuel pump doesn't seem to be working even assuming it's empty and adding 2-3 gallons to tank.

Fuel pump testing

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Oil condition 30 seconds video

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Radiator coolant condition 7 seconds

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Did try to crank the car but got nothing besides relay clicks. Here is my brainstorm thoughts on what to test next in order to troubleshoot and to help myself note down and organize thoughts.

Trickle charge battery to ensure it is full, battery load test it to make sure didn't get a dud.

Powerprobe the starter make sure it's getting power on hot side, if so short it across posts to see if it cranks. If not test solenoid and make sure it's getting and receiving power on cranking with key.

Assuming starter does engage and spin engine but only when shorting, I would likely try to make sure brake and clutch on whatever floor switches as I assume if they weren't contacting it would prevent the car from even cranking.

If easy quick stuff like that doesn't turn up anything then dive into pulling, cleaning and testing every fuse and relay on the car to ensure no issues with that before diving into further electrical and mechanical troubleshooting.

Thoughts?

Will report back as I work though these items

 

[TC1995]

While trying to dig down to the starter to test it I realized I didn't find a MAF sensor on the intake I removed but instead found what I think is a speed density setup?

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There is an APEXi S-AFC2 controller inside the center console attached and working.

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My understanding that it is a piggyback fuel management controller for air/fuel ratio modification usually to accommodate performance upgrades like larger injectors or turbochargers.

So I guess I will need to check on of the turbo is stock or not as well as what injectors, or cams are in it?

Didn't see a turbo timer set up inside though

Lastly getting the back seats and interior out to replace as well as get access to fuel pump. Other picture is what I think is a duplicate sensor that they didn't bother getting the old one out of even securing new one? No idea what it is

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[pauleyman]

While trying to dig down to the starter to test it I realized I didn't find a MAF sensor on the intake I removed but instead found what I think is a speed density setup?

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There is an APEXi S-FACcii controller inside the center console attached and working.

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My understanding that it is a piggyback fuel management controller for air/fuel ratio modification usually to accommodate performance upgrades like larger injectors or turbochargers.


So I guess I will need to check on of the turbo is stock or not as well as what injectors, or cams are in it?

Didn't see a turbo timer set up inside though

No that is not speed density. What you found is a gm Mass air sensor and a device called a MAF translator. Its another piggyback. This is just what we had years ago. There are better solutions now.

 

[TC1995]

No that is not speed density. What you found is a gm Mass air sensor and a device called a MAF translator. Its another piggyback. This is just what we had years ago. There are better solutions now.

Thanks for the clarification I was having a hard time trying to find anything online that looked like it. So likely will work as is for getting the car running then a good candidate for updates and upgrading down the road

 

[TC1995]

Very excited to say we have a upgraded turbo TDO5H
,

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I believe rated for up to 400-410hp, haven't checked injectors yet. Gutted interior a bit to reach fuel pump

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disconnected harness and connector isn't melted or burned out which is good. Found an amp under the passenger seat.

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Relays are tested as good,

plus think I identified where the coolant sensor code is coming from?, found a disconnected sensor on the coolant housing on side of the block.

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[pauleyman]

Very excited to say we have a upgraded turbo TDO5H
,

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I believe rated for up to 400-410hp, haven't checked injectors yet. Gutted interior a bit to reach fuel pump

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disconnected harness and connector isn't melted or burned out which is good. Found an amp under the passenger seat.

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Relays are tested as good,

plus think I identified where the coolant sensor code is coming from?, found a disconnected sensor on the coolant housing on side of the block.

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Tdo5h is not an indicator of an upgraded turbo. WHICH tdo5h do you have? There are a bunch of numbers on the housing and that would not include if this were modified in any fashion.