2G 95 GSX barn find, first steps recommendations

[TC1995]

Trying to save this 1995 manual GSX no sunroof VIN# 0001995 car.

What I know so far, (134,xxx) miles and that the car sat open to the elements with busted driver window for at least past 8+ yrs. It was in an accident obviously and never repaired. Allegedly it was running and driving when it was brought to a shop for repairs. That's basically the full extent of what we know.

I plan to rebuild everything myself, I've had two '95 GSX so I'm decently familiar with the platform but that was 15yrs ago. My goal is to rebuild the car properly (doing necessary things for longevity, rust remediation, prevention, updates etc) to keep it forever as always regretted selling previous ones.

My #1 priority currently is that I want to get the car running and moving under its own power before anything else to fully stress test systems before a full rebuild and teardown.

With such an unknown basket case and sitting for so long I want to see what everyone's thoughts are on priorities to tackle first or in order. Generally this is what I'm thinking right now.

1. Clean everything. Remove debris, dirt, leaves, spare parts, extra wire and cap wires that might be live from hack job splices into harness etc.

2. Document what modifications I can identify such as the A'PEXi controller, turbo, intercooler, any ECU stuff etc.

3. Did already sort of see that engine is free as it seemed to have some compression while in gear rolling vs not in gear.

4. Need to check all fluids (already saw that oil is in there and darker but no immediate red flags)

5. Camera scope all cylinders, intake intercooler, turbo, gas tank, radiator etc.

6. Get a battery and see if we have any power, ensure fuse boxes are getting power, inspect all fuses and relays. Not sure if I should disconnect fuel pump before giving power in likely scenario that crud is in the tank.

7. Provided most things are getting power Code read the car to see if I can glean any info from any past stored codes or history of the car at all.

8. Pull and bench test starter and ignition system, get new plugs and maybe wires

9. Drain gas tank and change oil and other fluids as needed.

10. Test fuel pump and lines, run fresh gas from auxiliary tank if this one is gone

11. Lube oil everything and try to crank?

Definitely missing stuff but this is first draft of what I'm thinking

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[2GbTalonGuy]

Nice build thread you have going so far. The car brings me back to the 00’s. Looks like you’re making good progress. I’m glad to see one being saved instead of parted out and scrapped. Best of luck, I am excited to see the progress.

 

[TC1995]

Still in the midst of tracking down no start no crank. Finally think I found the ignition relay and some other relay behind center console and dash.

Got glove box open, found a goodie.

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Coolant temp sensor, so obviously someone had same thought and either already replaced and this is dead or this is a spare to swap in, either way I'll test them both and look at the ohm chart to see if either are good but hopefully saved myself $40 also tested what I think is ignition relay inside of the dash

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, not finding any issues so looked at wiring and have a splice in harness that might be a kill switch? Here is short clip of it.

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It's where I'd put one trying to trace and find what it connects to.

 

[TC1995]

Got it to crank and start (off starter fluid)! I'll post info on what I did and videos accompanying it later!

 

[pauleyman]

Got it to crank and start (off starter fluid)! I'll post info on what I did and videos accompanying it later!

This at least tells you ECU is working as you have spark.

 

[import47]

you replace the mpi relay

 

[pauleyman]

This at least tells you ECU is working as you have spark.

Well....part if it anyway. Still more diagnosis to do. Do you have fuel pressure?

 

[TC1995]

Dug around trying to trace everything since I couldn't get a good picture of the relays from anyone confirming which was starter relay and fuel pump issues for the no start.

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But things didn't seem to match what I was seeing, with power probe was able to see what was sending and getting power so I was confident that while the relay was getting power I didn't know if I was testing the relay correctly for the pins. Still not sure why relay was activating when I applied power through power probe as expected as you can see in the past videos. But still felt it was bad relay from how car was acting. Looked around for advice

Before diving into the relay, start by verifying you have the starter wires in the engine bay connected. There is a connection between the positive terminal of the battery harness and the starter trigger wire that people tend to forget to plug back in. It’s a black with yellow stripe wire that runs to a 2 pin connector, it’s counterpart in the main harness terminates near the coolant temp sensor.

Once you verify that is connected, one thing you need to keep in mind is that the starter relay activates to DISABLE the starter solenoid on a M/T, if it’s clicking it could be a bad relay, however it could also be a bad clutch safety switch.

Unplug the clutch safety switch and try to start it. If the clicking persists, the next step is to bypass the starter relay (located behind the radio, easiest way to access it is to pull the passenger side kick panel). Simply jump one of the Black/Red wires to the Black/Yellow wire. If the car starts, you have a bad relay.

Basically did this, I didn't disconnect the clutch safety switch as I couldn't get to it easily
Tested just by putting power to the black yellow wire and finally got a starter sound

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, Sarter or bendix seemed stuck or hitting flywheel so jacked up car put it in first gear let clutch engage then turned front wheel enough to try and give different tooth to grab with the starter. After a bit of banging on starter with some starter fluid and jumping the connector of the starter relay it fired up

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you replace the mpi relay

I plan on replacing the starter relay even though I can't seem to find the fault in the relay but jumping it works even without disconnected clutch safety switch (obviously I just tried to start it as I normally would in neutral clutch in and brake so I'm assuming clutch safety switch is good, ignition cylinder, and ignition switch are fine.

Well....part if it anyway. Still more diagnosis to do. Do you have fuel pressure?

No unfortunately. I did try to drain the tank using pump by sending power to the connector up front under the hood but not getting anything. Got back to the fuel pump assembly and the connector isn't burnt out which is good but not getting any response, probed which pin was supply power when key was toggled and tried sending power with probe directly to that pin on the connector but got nothing from the pump.

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[pauleyman]

Dug around trying to trace everything since I couldn't get a good picture of the relays from anyone confirming which was starter relay and fuel pump issues for the no start.

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But things didn't seem to match what I was seeing, with power probe was able to see what was sending and getting power so I was confident that while the relay was getting power I didn't know if I was testing the relay correctly for the pins. Still not sure why relay was activating when I applied power through power probe as expected as you can see in the past videos. But still felt it was bad relay from how car was acting. Looked around for advice

Basically did this, I didn't disconnect the clutch safety switch as I couldn't get to it easily
Tested just by putting power to the black yellow wire and finally got a starter sound

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, Sarter or bendix seemed stuck or hitting flywheel so jacked up car put it in first gear let clutch engage then turned front wheel enough to try and give different tooth to grab with the starter. After a bit of banging on starter with some starter fluid and jumping the connector of the starter relay it fired up

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I plan on replacing the starter relay even though I can't seem to find the fault in the relay but jumping it works even without disconnected clutch safety switch (obviously I just tried to start it as I normally would in neutral clutch in and brake so I'm assuming clutch safety switch is good, ignition cylinder, and ignition switch are fine.


No unfortunately. I did try to drain the tank using pump by sending power to the connector up front under the hood but not getting anything. Got back to the fuel pump assembly and the connector isn't burnt out which is good but not getting any response, probed which pin was supply power when key was toggled and tried sending power with probe directly to that pin on the connector but got nothing from the pump.

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If you jumpered the underhood connector just check for voltage at the pump. If you have voltage id say fuel pump is bad. If car has sat many years tjat wouldn't be surprising

 

[TC1995]

If you jumpered the underhood connector just check for voltage at the pump. If you have voltage id say fuel pump is bad. If car has sat many years tjat wouldn't be surprising

I was showing voltage at the connector on and off with the key switching on and off, so yeah I'm thinking pump is toast I'll try to pull it and bench test to confirm

 

[import47]

Send in the ecu to get a look over so that be good and just be the apperatus or sensor

 

[pauleyman]

I was showing voltage at the connector on and off with the key switching on and off, so yeah I'm thinking pump is toast I'll try to pull it and bench test to confirm

I don't think you understood what I said. If you jumper the connector you have bypassed the need for the engine to run, ignition switch etc. You are applying voltage directly to the fuel pump relay and turning it on. It will run all the time. If you jumper you can just check and see if voltage is maintained at the pump. If it is, check and see if you have fuel at the rail.

 

[TC1995]

So good news is got myself a new Wal255 fuel pump upgrade.

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With minimal fighting and curse words got the old fuel pump out. And tank is capital F FULL. And the old pump and whole unit itself is in badddd shape.

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What are people's thoughts, on options. Try to clean restore and rebuild using new 255 pump or try to replace with something else?? Idk what else would fit or work at all not seeing good options keep finding everyone saying pretty much shit outta luck

 

[import47]

So good news is got myself a new Wal255 fuel pump upgrade.

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With minimal fighting and curse words got the old fuel pump out. And tank is capital F FULL. And the old pump and whole unit itself is in badddd shape.

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What are people's thoughts, on options. Try to clean restore and rebuild using new 255 pump or try to replace with something else?? Idk what else would fit or work at all not seeing good options keep finding everyone saying pretty much shit outta luck

Replace the pump and clean and bore out the gravity chamber

 

[jesse12345]

I'd try cleaning it up and see what it looks like after, but yours looks like it's in real tough shape. By looking at the picture I can't even pick out where the screws are, that may be an issue but they may clean up who knows. It doesn't hurt to try.

I've also been down this road and the gas gauge still doesn't work right after cleaning both units. They are getting hard to find in good shape unfortunately. Luckily you can still by the seal.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

I would try cleaning it and go from there. Being it was (theoretically) sitting in gasoline and not water, you might be surprised.

 

[TC1995]

Long time coming but made a bunch of progress the past few weeks. Turns out that sending unit is beyond gone. I was looking at replacing bits and pieces but can't even find them let alone the whole GSX sending unit assembly. Made a friend here locally that is also rebuilding a GSX who came in clutch with his old one.

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I ended up cutting off my old return line stem and got to break out my new welder for the first time. It's been ages since I last mig so first attempt I welded straight through and filled the whole....fml..

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can't see it super well but it was100% solid inside. Ended up drilling it out and leaving the welded pedestal as I figured it would let me work up from the cap on initial arc to the pipe without blowing through and checked with light and visually and a wire reach time to ensure no obstruction of the flow. Second time was the charm.

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even though there are no leaks with fluid put through the line I still think I'm going to jn weld epoxy over just on the off chance penetration wasn't great or if any small cracks develop over time. Got the high pressure line off the sending unit with heat and destroyed in the process but it wasn't going to be salvageable based on condition anyways and mines in perfect shape that I pulled off.

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. After heating and bending down the line for install it twisted and bent slightly. I inspected and don't feel it is causing enough of a restriction for me to worry about for the application and power I'm thinking of running ~315-375ish. Curious as to people's thoughts though on this slight kink .

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I'm keeping my stem in case I need to cut it and weld that one as well in the future. Inspected for cracking and didn't seehinking of also reinforcing with jb weld.

Ended up doing a real deep clean on the gas tank even after draining, it went very well pulled out the old float and arm that had rusted off and got all the sediment out scrubbed lightly with small soft wire brush by hand to break up the rest and clean out.

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(Didn't seem to that a picture of it perfectly clean though ops, gloves were pretty dirty tbh)

Got myself a new gasket for the sending unit as well as starter relay which is bad, now simply need to upgrade the fuel pump to my Wal255 I bought install relay and fuel sending unit fill with gas and send it to see if it'll idle! So excited and can't hardly wait.

 

[TC1995]

Pretty proud of how this came out ngl. Actually did things right and just cut off the other old line that ended up had a pin hole in it as after bending back and even after welding it was pretty restricted. So new line out leak tested everything, coated with jbweld for smoothness and extra protection against cracks or leaks in the future, rust converter liquid on the top to remove and get down to metal then a good heavy duty etching rust converting paint sealer.

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[TC1995]

We have ignition and fuel, she idled under her own power for the first time in 18yrs! So excited !

First priming and flushing of the system.

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Here it is idling for the first time!

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Brainstorming out next few things i want to do as possible next steps as car didnt sustain idle but didn't really try it again after confirmed it would even for a second. Will tidy a few things up and get it idling properly now.

Install new fuel filter since tank has been cleaned, sending unit replaced, upgraded fuel pump installed, and getting clean fuel at the rail.

Swap rims&tires so i can eventually drive a bit and go through all the gears around the neighborhood

Get car up to temp idling (i think coolant sensor might be bad) check for leaks in oil, trans, diff, head gasket, coolant, boost leaks with smoke machine.

Figure out why new starter relay i bought isn't working, its possible its bad.... which would suck it was expensive, for now will continue to jump car (not sure if i need to pull the jumper wire after it starts to keep it idling) But to get it idling may need to do all of the following.

Test AF gauge
Test Boost Gauge
Test oil pressure gauge ( manual dial under the car hard connected, so i suspect might be an issue) or wire was just cut and needs to be respliced
test temperature

read codes again (had a coolant temp sensor code originally)

Track down Tig welder to swap greddy type s flange off and tig on aluminum hks SSQ bov flange.

Assuming i can get it idling up to temp and moving through all mechanical systems under its own power i would then focus on teardown for basic maitenence.

Brakes & rotors
Timing belt & Accessory belts (earlier in this thread was recommended the blue Evo belt for an upgrade)
Head gasket
water pump
Tensioner
Get new clean airfilter

As always curious to hear people's thoughts or suggestions.

 

[pma1123]

Just catching up on your thread today TC1995; a huge pat on the back for your continued efforts and success in getting this car to run again!

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Congrats man! A big step forward! Feel up the good work. I think your list of next steps is spot on.

 

[TC1995]

So to get car idling I have a new jpipe on ordered with the proper vflange for my hks bov so I can put intake side of engine back together.

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I'm assuming that after start up sensors are cycling and don't see airflow and kill the engine. I could probably just block off the flange on intercooler charge pipe for time being but I need a new jpipe anyways to fit the bov I want so might as well just do it now. Less to troubleshoot later.

On side not got the annoying hex lug key to take old tires and rims off butttttt one stripped anyways....fml... Any suggestions for removing?

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[import47]

Jdc titanium has lugs that would work better that what you have already

For removal try the tool or a torq40 and bang her in and remove or drill out the stud and replace the hub cause sitting for a while the bearing would have rusted to shit

 

[chrisman287]

On side not got the annoying hex lug key to take old tires and rims off butttttt one stripped anyways....fml... Any suggestions for removing?

Let some pb blaster sit in there for a couple days then grab your torch and get to scorchin

 

[TC1995]

Jdc titanium has lugs that would work better that what you have already

For removal try the tool or a torq40 and bang her in and remove or drill out the stud and replace the hub cause sitting for a while the bearing would have rusted to shit

I will definitely look into it I am not putting these back on the car no matter what

Let some pb blaster sit in there for a couple days then grab your torch and get to scorchin

Got it, Been letting them soak planning on throwing heat at it this weekend will post back with results