91' Awd, Mt

[Skillz]

Ok, I am completely puzzled now.

This is my problem:
The clutch isn't disenguaging. While the car is off, I can go through all the gears without a problem. Once I start the car, it will not go into any gear, without grinding. Also, if I put the car in 1st gear and try to start, with the clutch pressed all the way down, it will not start. (Well it will, but it's putting a huge strain on the starter and such becuase it's still in gear) Even if I pump the clutch numerous times, it still will not disenguage the clutch.

I had a brand new slave cylinder that I installed after having the problem, bleeded the clutch, a few pumps after we noticed no more air pockets in the line. Still the same problem.

We compared the distance the slave cylinder travels on a 1990 FWD MT, and both go the same distance. So I am almost postive it's not the slave cylinder, or air in the lines now.

The car has set up for almost 8 months now. I installed the motor/transmission about 6 months ago, and it set for a really long time.

I have searched the V###, and just about every other place to see if I can figure out the problem. Only thing I have not tried, which is something I just read before I go back outside and that is taking a prybar to see if someone can manually pry on the clutch fork and disenguage the clutch.

Is it possible to have the clutch/pressure plates installed backwards? What about it "locking" up with rust due to it sitting too long. I do live on the coast, and things rust pretty fast.

I got my cousin to look inside the transmission, he moved the boot by the slave cylinder and took a flash light. He said he could see the clutch fork moving, and the throw out bearing appeared to have rust built up on it.

I think I am gonna have to drop the transmission again, but I MIGHT be over looking something.

 

[Sgt Turbo]

Have you checked/ adjusted linkage at your pedal? Sounds to me like your a hair or two off.

 

[Skillz]

I looked at the pedal itself, but I couldn't find where to adjust it anywhere. One of my cousins adjusted something under the dash, but not the pedal directly. It was off to the right somewhere, something about a big spring and it was very hard to get it. I think it was a 12mm bolt/nut or whatever.

 

[Sgt Turbo]

My bad, I should have said above your pedal. Start at your pedal, follow the lever up, you should see the rod end to adjust.

It is a little tough to wedge yourself in there.

 

[Skillz]

Alright, I will see if I can find it. I will have to rebleed the clutch when I adjust that right?

 

[Sgt Turbo]

No bleed, your just adjusting where the pedal engages, disengages the clutch. Just pull the cotter key, take the bolt out, loosen the jam nut, spin the rod end. One way will bring release up, the other down. The rod goes to your clutch master cylinder. My guess is you need to bring release up higher.

Also inspect the rod, they do bend. Check www.vfaq.com under drivetrain, then adjustment for the procedure.

 

[Skillz]

I got it to shift, had to fix that bolt and stuff.

I also had to bleed the master cylinder and slave cylinder. So far so good. Busted another water line though, so once I get that fixed I'll come back.

Thanks for the help guys. Much appreicated.

 

[Skillz]

Ok, heres the update:

I replaced the water line and and bleed the clutch and everything, after adjusting the clutch pedal.

Now, I let the car sit for a day; come back to it and it's not letting me shift while the car is running. However, it's not as bad as it normally is. I can hold the clutch in and crank the car and it just slips the clutch a little.

Now, I think that when I bleed it the first time we may not have removed all the air in the lines. After it set over night, the air had time to build in one location and that's what's causing this. Not sure, but it sounds like it could happen.