6266 Build or Bust

[1cleangsx]

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey guys, so in the last few weeks I’ve been checking off my list one by one. I got the headliner replaced, re torqued the head and replaced the valve cover gasket, installed the aem 5 bar and today got my 3 port boost solenoid wired, mounted and plumbed.

Only thing left before backing her back out of the garage as you could see from my previous post is re install that darn pedal assembly which I’m not looking forward too . I am proud of my self for finally addressing that issue. So I ended up NOT welding the traditional nut that most people do, as I really had no play there, the original plastic bushing was in great shape, and some say welding that spot weakens the shaft and doesn’t really fix pedal slop anyways, ALL my slop was at the clevis pin.

Here’s a bronze sleeve I bought at the hardware store to fill the 1/2” hole in the lever.

Here’s the lever rebuilt with the sleeve AND a nut welded on the end of the clevis for additional rod adjustment, another trick I read about that’s worked for others.

 

[1cleangsx]

After re assembling the pedal assembly, I checked for any play and there’s none, as soon as I began to press the pedal, I saw instant movement in the master rod clevis, so hopefully my clutch drag days will soon be over

 

[We're on Boost]

It's interesting that the plastic bushing was still good, and apparently the square-ish drive between the horizontal shaft and the lever (male to female) was also still not sloppy. Wear on the male part of that square-ish drive is what some people find in this thing. Maybe this is a low mileage car? How many miles are on this car anyway?

 

[1cleangsx]

135,000

 

[1cleangsx]

 

[1cleangsx]

 

[1cleangsx]

I went ahead and replaced that plastic one with the bronze even tho I didn’t weld the shaft, obviously re used the washer/lock washer and tightened the nut with all my might, but it wasn’t loose after 30plus years when I disassembled it so I’m not too worried about it.

 

[We're on Boost]

135,000 is almost exactly what was on my car when we bought it, and it's still got only 143,500 on it now.
So good, that gives me some hope that my parts in there could still be ok like yours.
Thanks for the pics!

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good i had mine welded a while ago, and replaced the bushings too, ill see how it does when its running this year.

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey man thanks! I’m excited to see your car run this year

Looks good i had mine welded a while ago, and replaced the bushings too, ill see how it does when its running this year.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yeah me too it's just cold now even with a heated garage well a salamander. Lol

 

[1cleangsx]

I bet

 

[1cleangsx]

 

[1cleangsx]

Had to post an old fav . Anyways today I made some progress with the pedal assembly. I’d have to say in some ways the re install is worse than the removal

Got the pedals mounted and the brake master rod re connected.

Got the Brake master/booster re connected along with the reservoir reconnected/topped off. Obviously I’ll be bleeding the brakes/clutch master soon, I’m off tomorrow so I’ll try to make more progress, God Bless.

 

[1cleangsx]

Done.

 

[1cleangsx]

This weekend I’ll bleed the clutch, just waiting on a new oem evo 8/9 brake booster hose then I’ll bleed the brakes, make the changes on the laptop for the new aem 5 bar, double check base timing and then take her to my brother n laws for a compression test and rear brake job

 

[1cleangsx]

Hey guys figured I’d post another update it’s been a while. So currently my clutch is still dragging..but it barely rolls at 7 grand and I don’t want to give up yet . Anyways I’m about to put her back in her “Natural Position” on jackstands and install some new parts

Got some nice PowerStop rotors to finally replace the stockers, also got some new ceramic pads for the rear, and I’ll also be re-spraying the front calipers and spraying the rears, can’t wait to see them on the car.

I’ll also be installing these new front lower control arms and inner/outer tie rod ends I picked up from rtmracing I’ll also be installing a set of rear adjustable upper and lower control arms, all this stuff aside from the calipers I’ve had since last year, excited to finally get it on.

Here’s my recent anti-clutch drag mod from tonight . We’ll see if it makes a difference next time I drive the car. I want this clutch to work so bad , it’s easy to shift and street friendly, I just don’t have twin disk money at the moment and there’s only about 750 miles on this clutch. Couple other things I’ll do is bleed the clutch again just cuz, install some new rear hatch struts, also from rtmracing, and try to get my damn fuel gauge reading again. Oh and swapping out my fuel filter element as my AFR’s have been getting leaner with a misfire in 3rd. Hope all is well with you guys God Bless

 

[We're on Boost]

Oh and swapping out my fuel filter element as my AFR’s have been getting leaner with a misfire in 3rd.

Oh-ohh. Your fuel pumps probably need a clean pair of socks!

 

[1cleangsx]

Your probably right, I’ll be pulling the hanger to check those out and the wiring on the float/sending unit

 

[Vegas Smith]

Your probably right, I’ll be pulling the hanger to check those out and the wiring on the float/sending unit

Your sender likely needs to be rehabbed. My gauge didn't work for years due to this.

 

[1cleangsx]

I know @awdtony spoke awhile back in this thread on how to fix it, I’ll have to scroll back thru to see what he suggested, it’s funny I took a pic of the gauge reading the night we got power to the car when we finished up the battery re locate, then at some point down the road after starting the car it quit working

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I love the "Best Dad" picture and your use of your "shop lights" under your dash............LOVE IT

 

[TCB91GSX]

Bump, I want results for the latest clutch mod

 

[1cleangsx]

It’ll be a minute , I just put the car on jackstands to tear into the front suspension. I’m replacing the control arms and tie rod ends, along with the rotors, re spraying the calipers, boost leak testing and re bleeding the clutch, then doing upper/lower adjustable control arms on the rear along with pads/rotors, hatch struts and oh yeah replacing my fuel filter element and fuel pump socks and inspecting the hanger to try and get my fuel gauge reading again, and I think that’s about it