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2G 6 Bolt Swap No boost & Wont Idle

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91dsm

Proven Member
122
14
Sep 12, 2014
Perkasie, Pennsylvania
I just fired up my car for the first time after the swap and It started to warm up smoothly at 1500 rpms and as it tries to come down to idle it begins to run more rough and will die if Im not giving it gas. I also do not hear the turbo whatsoever which is very strange considering I am running an open downpipe because the car came with no exhaust. I followed the road race engineering guide for the swap and I pulled this engine from my running 1991 gst which had no issues at all. The only mods are ecmlink, fmic, hallman mbc. The rest of the car is stock. I included 2 logs one was a cold start and the other was a start up after it ran for a minute or so.

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Here is what I see at a glance. Knock Cell set at 5*, move that to 2*
Coolant Cel set at 234, change that to 215-220 (almost unrecoverable at 220*)
Disable Airflow smoothing w/SD is checked. Unless you are on Speed Density, uncheck that box.
Use non 95/96 CAS is checked and you may need to leave that alone, depending on what year your 2g is, which you didn't specify.
I would play with the MAFComp, as I just put link in my stock 1990 GSX and had to play with it myself to get the girl to stay running.
Log Maf and follow it in the hrtz area, but most of the time you have to play with the MAF Comp in the 0, 50, 100 and 150 areas.
I have included what I would do on your MAF Comp and also included MY MAF Comp map also for you to see and use if needed. I am not a MAF tuner or not as good as SD but I got my little car fired up on her just a few weeks ago, on link and all stock.
See the pictures of the MAF Comp adjustments to try.
Marty
 

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  • MY MAF COMP table for a stock 90 GSX.png
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Thanks I really appreciate all the info. I will try to make some adjustments over the weekend and then ill post an update.
 
Your welcome! Just trying to help and I was there just a couple weeks ago doing the same thing.
Please do follow up, and if things don't work out, let us know what is going on then, and we can all put our heads together! :thumb:
Marty
 
Thanks Marty! After changing those settings in link and adjusting the MAF Comp with the values you suggested the car stayed running for a bit :D.I tried the map from your 1990 too but it didnt run quite as well as the other one. I have another log that shows what happens. Basically it starts up and is nice and smooth at 1500 rpm's until it reaches about 1100 rpm's. Then it begins to sputter and idle extremely rough around the 17 second mark in the log.
 

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Hit me up tomorrow and I can check out the log again, the new one, and give you some more advice. Its no problem at all, bug me!!! :thumb:
It might be a little thing we can tweak to get it to idle.
 
Were you simulating the idle stop switch? That is important for the motor to know to idle down and then we get it to not run to rich or to lean and get the O2 sensor cycling.
I'm on my phone or I could look at the log.
 
If you get a chance, load "Teamviewer" on your laptop and I can come in and move the adjustments around remotely. I just sit in my car and check the box on Link that says "apply changes as ...." whatever it says, then I play with the MafComp and feel how its reacting while I make the changes. I don't keep it a secret. Just easy to feel the car and you cant kill it, play with it and we can always help if you just can't get her to like you. Make sure that your Base Timing is set at 5* and that your TPS is adjusted. I can look at it and help as much as I can and I don't mind. :)
 
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