6 bolt and 2g head

[TaloNKiD505]

A friend of mine just bought a 97 TSI fwd. Im not too sure about the particulars on the car, but all i know is after he bought the car he installed a new turbo, that came with the car, i dont know what size turbo it is, but it sounds like a 16g. anyway he installed the turbo, no real supporting mods, just a fmic, with piping, took it for a few test spins and something let go. Im not sure what it was, ive never seen the car or heard the car run, all the info i know is from what my friend has told me. So long story short he is getting ready to take the motor out to see what the problem is, and he has the opportunity to swap out the 7bolt for a 6bolt that a friend is giving to him for free. So my question is, if he swaps out the block but keeps the 2g head what else will he have to do to make the block and head run properly and be compatible? will he have to swap out ECU's and is there anything else that he might have to do in order to make the 2g head run correctly with the 6bolt block. Any info on this would be much appreciated. Thanks
matt

 

[grimdsm]

Courtesy of SBR's website...

Block Only Swap Kit

"So your bad ass 2G needs a heart transplant. Here is the list of what you need to do the 6 bolt block swap and retain your 2G head. Your 2G head will need machined out to fit the larger 6 bolt head studs. This is sold as a full kit, and we won't split the miscellaneous pieces up unless they're on our site else where already. Some of the items listed, need your 2G parts modified, and are not included in the kit.

All parts are BRAND NEW Mitsubishi parts

6 bolt water line (filter to water outlet)
6 bolt oil filter housing
6 bolt oil pan
6 bolt oil pick up
6 bolt rear main seal
6 bolt timing belt tension arm
6 bolt timing belt cover
6 bolt water pump (OEM Replacement, not Mitsu)
6 bolt flywheel (ACT)
6 bolt front cover (OEM Replacement, not Mitsu)
6 bolt timing tensioner
6 bolt trigger plate
7 bolt front motor mount (Mount not included *needs modified)
2g counter weight on the shifter (Weight not included *needs cut off)"

 

[TaloNKiD505]

ok so my friend completed putting his motor 2gether and now has a question about what clutch and flywheel he has 2 use... he has a 6 bolt bottom end with a 2gen tranny... he was told a 6 bolt flywheel and 2 gen clutch mix and match but wants to confirm before he orders the parts...

 

[Dsmj89]

Yes the above you mentioned will work just fine.

 

[BogusSVO]

i hope he had the head bolt holes in the 2g head reamed to the 1g size and did not just force the bolts or studs in......

 

[EclipticalGS]

Same here ^^^ He's going to have trouble getting oil to the head. Anyway, When i did this build, I used a 7-bolt oil pump modified to the 6-bolt and it works perfectly, i use my same crank trigger and everything. Also, the clutch and everything will work but you need a 6-bolt flywheel. A 7-bolt flywheel will not bolt up, obviously.

 

[Blaze2gDSM]

Road Race also has a page showing how to modify the block and front case for a truly block only swap if that is what you are looking for. You have to drill the block in a few places and fill it in in others. Same with the front case/oil pump, this allows all the oil holes to line up.

 

[donniekak]

None of the drilling or front case work needs to be done. The hyuandai 2.0 liter dohc block from 1996+ is a 6-bolt block with a front case that has a crank sensor. Companies that sell direct drop in 6-bolt swaps use this block, and tell everyone it is some special jdm block, or a really hard modification done to a us block, bs. It is just a hyuandai block and front case, if you notice there are no oil squirters in the "drop in" swap blocks.

 

[TaloNKiD505]

another question... there is a harness they sell for the CAS that gives it a "factory look" but there is an extra white wire from the CAS... it says it goes to a "blue wire"... any1 have a clue?

 

[project98dsm]

another question... there is a harness they sell for the CAS that gives it a "factory look" but there is an extra white wire from the CAS... it says it goes to a "blue wire"... any1 have a clue?

TaloNKiD505, who sells the harness that "they" sell?

I think you may be referring to the CAS conversion harness. But this would only be needed if you're running a 6bolt block and head. If that's what you're referring to it's just a harness that lets you run both the crank position sensor and cam angle sensor off of your stock harness, due to a 6bolt not having the CPS on the front case, and obviously you couldn't leave the plug for it just hanging.

 

[jnbracing]

None of the drilling or front case work needs to be done. The hyuandai 2.0 liter dohc block from 1996+ is a 6-bolt block with a front case that has a crank sensor. Companies that sell direct drop in 6-bolt swaps use this block, and tell everyone it is some special jdm block, or a really hard modification done to a us block, bs. It is just a hyuandai block and front case, if you notice there are no oil squirters in the "drop in" swap blocks.

Is this really true? Are the Hyundai blocks the same as the Mitsubishi 6 bolts from the older models?

 

[project98dsm]

Ok I will say this...I crankwalked on a newly rebuilt 7bolt block, with JE pistons, Crower rods, ARP fasteners all the way through...everything was to spec...and ended up with a spun thrust bearing. I wanted a quick engine to get my car back on the road but did not want to fool around with a 7bolt again. I got the KarKing "6bolt drop in"...it's not installed yet but i took the head and oil pan off the engine and had a look see...the only way I can tell that it's not a legit 6bolt block is that there are no oil squirters. They claim on the website that they "remove them"...but there's not even any provisions where oil squirters would be. Also there are unusual casting numbers on the front of the block under where the turbo and water pipe would go, which I've never seen on a Mitsu 6bolt. I do know that the 2.0 Sonata from around the '96 year model was a 6bolt block from side to side and on the inside, just without oil squirters. Because of this the stock 4g crankshaft and 1g rods/pistons are a perfect accomodation. What makes this engine a drop in is due to the fact that the front case (which WILL NOT) bolt to Mitsu 6bolt, or to both Mitsu 1g OR 2G 7bolt blocks, has a nice spot for the crank position sensor. I had my longblock ordered with a 2 head because even though it has smaller ports it still has a nice flow pattern further down compared to the 1g head. This setup let me keep all of my sensors and have no need for a 1g CAS, no need to mess with wiring or purchasing a CAS conversion harness from places such as RRE or Magnus.

OH and by the way, KarKing also includes ARP headstuds and an oem Mitsu metal headgasket, as well as removal of balance shafts. The oil filter housing is definitely not a Mitsu of any sort, but more of a billet filter housing? I'm not sure. It is tapped for the sending unit/dummy light, has two barbed fittings for an external oil cooler such as a B&M or streettunedmotorsports have several nice units that would work perfect for this setup, and the filter housing also has a t-fitting for a sending unit for oil pressure guage, while the other side can be used for oil supply instead of from the head, which is blocked off from KarKing...all in all this engine looks immaculate, and I can't wait to drop it in. Copy and paste the link below for a better look at their setup.

karking.com