Which ARP head bolt for 6 bolt short block and 2g head?

[96gstdsm]

OK well just as the title says, I am swapping a 6 bolt short block in and i am going to be using my 2g head. Which head bolts do I need to use? 6 bolt or 7 bolt? Also I don't need anything special when it comes to my head gasket do I? They will all work the same correct?

 

[dsm-onster]

Use the 6 bolt studs as you have a 6 bolt block into which you will be bolting.

Don't forget that the 2G head has smaller head bolts, so you'll need to drill your 2G head bolt holes wider to accommodate proper bolts or studs. I suggest using a press. As a drill can wobble qite a bit as you go down the head.

 

[96gstdsm]

Use the 6 bolt studs as you have a 6 bolt block into which you will be bolting.

Don't forget that the 2G head has smaller head bolts, so you'll need to drill your 2G head bolt holes wider to accommodate proper bolts or studs. I suggest using a press. As a drill can wobble qite a bit as you go down the head.

Ok thanks a lot. That's what I figured for the bolts, and yes I am going to have to drill out the holes I am aware.
Headgasket is nothing special though correct? Other than just resurfacing the head and block.

 

[gijoe985]

I second the question, for a 6bolt block with a 2g head, are the head gaskets the same? Or should you use a 1g or a 2g?

 

[99gst_racer]

Buy the head gasket to match your block. No modifications are necessary.

 

[chrisb33]

What if i have a 2G block and will use a 1G head. Which head stud bolt should i use? for 1G or 2G?

TIA.

chris b

 

[EMX5636]

You use the bolts for the block you are using. 2g uses smaller bolts than a 1g. Don't worry, you can't mess it up. If you buy the wrong ones, they either physically won't fit in the holes, or will be loose and not thread in. Headgaskets are the same for all 90-99 years so it doesn't matter. I suggest the Mitsu 4 layer though.

 

[chrisb33]

ok thanks. that clears things up for me

 

[99gst_racer]

What if i have a 2G block and will use a 1G head. Which head stud bolt should i use? for 1G or 2G?

Always match your head bolts/studs to your block.

Why would you want to run that combo though?

 

[chrisb33]

Always match your head bolts/studs to your block.

Why would you want to run that combo though?

well mainly because the intake ports on the 1g head are bigger than the 2g's. Of course i have to match it with a 1g intake manifold as well.

 

[dsm-onster]

I think he means, why would you run a 2g or 7 bolt block with a 1g head when you have GVR4 in your profile? The Galant VR4 comes with a 6 bolt from the factory. Why swap in a 7 bolt?

 

[chrisb33]

I think he means, why would you run a 2g or 7 bolt block with a 1g head when you have GVR4 in your profile? The Galant VR4 comes with a 6 bolt from the factory. Why swap in a 7 bolt?

oh because i blew up the old engine because of mistune and faulty wiring on the stock vr4 engine. so i swapped it with an evo3 engine.

chris b

 

[KPEclipse]

i have a 1g block, 2g head...
and the only thing that I will say is you MAY NOT have to make those bolt holes bigger. When I put my 2g head on my 1g block, it slid right on, no modifications necissary. Now idk why my 2g head just fit like that, and I know for SURE it was a 2g head, I bought my car unmolested other than an injen intake.

Just my.02

 

[dsm-onster]

Yes, I've heard of you and another or two who's had a 7-bolt head that swapped on without expanding the headbolt holes. One way or another, you will find out .

Chrisb33, I plan on drilling out and re-tapping my 4g64 block (7-bolt) for the wider arp head studs I have on my 6-bolt. The stock 7-bolt head bolts are weakish. Which isn't bad. But you can put in some 7-bolt arp headstuds and have a block that can see 400whp with a stock composite headgasket and not have to fear blowing it regularly. It will still go before the rings, pistons, or rods. This makes it like a "safety fuse". You're just raising the amperage of the fuse with arp head bolts. The $90 is a good investment, to me.

 

[chrisb33]

Yes, I've heard of you and another or two who's had a 7-bolt head that swapped on without expanding the headbolt holes. One way or another, you will find out .

Chrisb33, I plan on drilling out and re-tapping my 4g64 block (7-bolt) for the wider arp head studs I have on my 6-bolt. The stock 7-bolt head bolts are weakish. Which isn't bad. But you can put in some 7-bolt arp headstuds and have a block that can see 400whp with a stock composite headgasket and not have to fear blowing it regularly. It will still go before the rings, pistons, or rods. This makes it like a "safety fuse". You're just raising the amperage of the fuse with arp head bolts. The $90 is a good investment, to me.

I agree with you on the good investment on the APR head bolts. But what are your thoughts on the ARP main bolts? do you think it's a worthwhile investment or spend the money elsewhere?

chris b

 

[99gst_racer]

But what are your thoughts on the ARP main bolts? do you think it's a worthwhile investment or spend the money elsewhere?

To run the ARP's, you need to have your mains line honed. So, if your engine is out and being machined, then it would be worth doing. Otherwise, stick with your factory bolts.

 

[dsm-onster]

I agree. Havn't stock mainbolts been taken to +700whp and remained reliable?

As well, the big end of the rods have to be rehoned with the arp rod bolts torques to spec to insure their roundness if they are used. Because just like with mainstuds, the arp hardware exerts a different amount of force when clamped.

I think it is a good investment to run ARP rod bolts if you have a 6-bolt and want 500ish whp, but not really a neccessity for mainbolts. The rod bolts are the weak link for the stronger 6-bolt rods. Though, they still are definately stronger than the 7-bold rod bolts; just look at the size difference. The seven bolt rod will bend before the 6-bolt rod bolt will give way, IMHO. So it seams worthless to upgrade to arp rodbolts in a 7-bolt motor, when you can have 6-bolt rods machined and then have stronger rods and rod-bolt in one fell swoop. At the typical limit hp limit of the 6-bolt rods, I've seen more than 1 6-bolt motor let loose on the rod bolts before they bend. The rod bolts are very sensitive to rpms more than brute force from high cylinder pressure. Who revs a stock 7-bolt to 8500 rpms and wants less power than what a stock 7-bolt rod can handle, which is 400-450 whp? A 6-bolt rod with arp rodbolts and oem turbo pistons can take a 500whp beating daily up to 8500-9000rpms using a stock stroke crank.

 

[chrisb33]

I agree. Havn't stock mainbolts been taken to +700whp and remained reliable?

As well, the big end of the rods have to be rehoned with the arp rod bolts torques to spec to insure their roundness if they are used. Because just like with mainstuds, the arp hardware exerts a different amount of force when clamped.

I think it is a good investment to run ARP rod bolts if you have a 6-bolt and want 500ish whp, but not really a neccessity for mainbolts. The rod bolts are the weak link for the stronger 6-bolt rods. Though, they still are definately stronger than the 7-bold rod bolts; just look at the size difference. The seven bolt rod will bend before the 6-bolt rod bolt will give way, IMHO. So it seams worthless to upgrade to arp rodbolts in a 7-bolt motor, when you can have 6-bolt rods machined and then have stronger rods and rod-bolt in one fell swoop. At the typical limit hp limit of the 6-bolt rods, I've seen more than 1 6-bolt motor let loose on the rod bolts before they bend. The rod bolts are very sensitive to rpms more than brute force from high cylinder pressure. Who revs a stock 7-bolt to 8500 rpms and wants less power than what a stock 7-bolt rod can handle, which is 400-450 whp? A 6-bolt rod with arp rodbolts and oem turbo pistons can take a 500whp beating daily up to 8500-9000rpms using a stock stroke crank.

point taken on the main bolts. but what if im planning to purchase a set of 7 bolt eagle h-beam connecting rods for my 2G. paired up with a ross race forged pistons, should i still upgrade the rod bolts to arp? (im not sure even sure f the the con rod set comes with a set of rod bolts.)

im just aiming for around 400 to 1450 whp.