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$50 Paint Job [merged]

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Ive been following this thread for about 2 weeks now, and i decided to try this out, i started last week I'm on my 3rd coat right now (going to black from black), i primered the whole car using Duplicolor Sandable Primer and it seems to cover a lot smother than with out primer

I need to use rubbing compound on wool then polishing on a softer one

can u please explain this a little more? rubbing compound on wool? what is this softer one? LOL I'm new to polishing and buffing but I'm willing to learn :coy:
 
Ive been following this thread for about 2 weeks now, and i decided to try this out, i started last week I'm on my 3rd coat right now (going to black from black), i primered the whole car using Duplicolor Sandable Primer and it seems to cover a lot smother than with out primer



can u please explain this a little more? rubbing compound on wool? what is this softer one? LOL I'm new to polishing and buffing but I'm willing to learn :coy:

No, its more abrasive. and when I say wool I mean a wool buffing pad they make all different kinds of them. Ill keep everyone updated when I get to it..Im just chekin in here and there between class. haha
 
^^^ I've been looking for this thread for the past couple days, finally found it. Yes, please give us an update. Also, the last pics look real good.
 
The update is my wetsanding skills suck.

Turns out what I though was smooth, isnt good enough...so with class ending in about 2 1/2 weeks Im just holding off. Im going to go at it with 600 grit untill its perfect and not takin any short cuts this time. Ill admit im a little frustrated, but being a first timer IF I do this again Ill know what exactly needs done and how to do it.

My suggestion to everyone is read the moparts thread....everyquestion has been asked in the threads they have on this.
 
So let me get this right i need:

Rustoleum oilbased enamel paint,
4" to 6" white foam paint rollers,
100% Mineral Spirits,
250-1500 grit sand paper,
turtle wax polishing compound,
and a wool buffing pad.
 
The update is my wetsanding skills suck.

Turns out what I though was smooth, isnt good enough...so with class ending in about 2 1/2 weeks Im just holding off. Im going to go at it with 600 grit untill its perfect and not takin any short cuts this time. Ill admit im a little frustrated, but being a first timer IF I do this again Ill know what exactly needs done and how to do it.

My suggestion to everyone is read the moparts thread....everyquestion has been asked in the threads they have on this.

Just wanna give you alot props for doing this, I know it's probably frustrating, and nomatter what happens thanks for putting your car on the line for our information benefit....:thumb:
 
The update is my wetsanding skills suck.

Turns out what I though was smooth, isnt good enough...so with class ending in about 2 1/2 weeks Im just holding off. Im going to go at it with 600 grit untill its perfect and not takin any short cuts this time. Ill admit im a little frustrated, but being a first timer IF I do this again Ill know what exactly needs done and how to do it.

My suggestion to everyone is read the moparts thread....everyquestion has been asked in the threads they have on this.

What was your problem before? Orange peel? Or just hazy, not glossy? I've read a few people try this that can't get a shine even after high-grit wet/dry sanding (past 800) and polishing compounds. What was yours like? Was it just uneven?

Sorry for all the questions, just living vicariously through all you guys. Thankfully my car's paint is alright for now, but I really would love to try this on a friend's car that has bad paint. In fact, now that I think about it, my friend has an old van (300k+) with a peeling hood...
 
What was your problem before? Orange peel? Or just hazy, not glossy? I've read a few people try this that can't get a shine even after high-grit wet/dry sanding (past 800) and polishing compounds. What was yours like? Was it just uneven?

Sorry for all the questions, just living vicariously through all you guys. Thankfully my car's paint is alright for now, but I really would love to try this on a friend's car that has bad paint. In fact, now that I think about it, my friend has an old van (300k+) with a peeling hood...

My guess would be the wet sanding. But if you read the original post. The guy said you can do a clear coat if you wish to have more of a shinny show car appearance. :rocks:
 
It didnt shine up like I thought it would and I read it has to be wet sanded properly and the buffer I bought is "weak" and more for simple waxing. So with 2 weeks of class left untill winter break for a month im giving it a rest until then...I can devote my days to it then Im anxious to get it back on the road and enjoy my black leather interior again.
 
It didnt shine up like I thought it would and I read it has to be wet sanded properly and the buffer I bought is "weak" and more for simple waxing. So with 2 weeks of class left untill winter break for a month im giving it a rest until then...I can devote my days to it then Im anxious to get it back on the road and enjoy my black leather interior again.
I have one of those $20 walmart random-orbit electric buffers. Not very powerful, you have to press lightly or it slows down. It seems like it's just for buffing, not really hard polishing. I've got lots of scratches on my clear coat that I'm going to use it for, but for what you're doing I'd think you'd need something bigger. Definitely let us know how it goes when you get time after classes.

Also, have macro photos of how it is right now, without the shine? Just curious. Thanks!
 
The problem is black, and lighting. I would wetsand it down and it would look like glass under the shop lights, pull it outside and it was like I sanded it with 80 grit. I would then turn to the buffer and after the first buffing all the fine scratch's from wetsanding would show up, but polished. From far away it looks great, but if you get right up on it is when the scrathes are noticable. I just did my hood and it was a real pain in the ass and took me close to two weeks to get it acceptable. I sprayed my nose and it took two days.
 
Seems like alot of you never bothered to look at the original Moparts.com thread on this so I'll include the main meat at the end with a link to it again.

"69chargeryeehaa" suggests to use a "high speed polisher" with a "buffing bonnet" for the final polishing.It stands to reason to me that thats something alot nicer and more powerful than you could get at wal mart for $20.I'm thinking something more like this:

high speed polisher

here's probably the most important part of the whole thing I've read so far..."prepping is 90% of the work."

Heres the main body of the original thread...

"here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:"

the link to the original thread:Moparts

My paint on my 92 is royally screwed up so as soon as I get it up and running,I'll be painting it with this method.
 
A high speed polisher would definitely work better than a buffer. Buffers are more or less made for applying and removing waxes. If your going to be in the market for a polisher, think abut getting one that is adjustable not by switch, but by dial. Nothing worse than getting things just right only to bump something or fumble causing the rps to ramp up and leave a nice burn mark in your paint.

For small areas a right angle grinder with a polishing bonnet will work, and for those who only plan on doing this once you can pick up an adjustable speed polisher at harbor freight for under 80, sometimes under 50. Not something I would trust to last a lifetime, but for one and done it should work just fine. Otherwise just rent or borrow one if you can. Whatever you chose, be sure to practice on something prior because you could burn or rub away that paint in a heart beat.

Its still a $50 paint job. You wouldn't take your car somewhere to be painted only to get a bill for paint, labor, and the tools used. The supplies should cost around $50, tools are not consider supplies, the assumption is that if you can paint or work on a car you should already have these tools.
 
Theres a few places around here that will rent buffers, your best bet is to call around. Try rental shops and hardware stores. They might not have them stocked, but they should be able to get them in a few days.
 
awesome thanks for the info...Im not looking forward to wetsanding in this weather but gotta do what you gotta do.
 
Still wet sanding here and there guys, Its getting to where it should be now.
Good to hear it. Keep on going, it'll be awesome to see the end result after a lot of wetsanding. I don't envy you working in this weather (about 20-30 where I am right now), but kudos for keeping on it. Can't wait to see pics.
 
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