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420A head build for turbo- opinions.

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purplerocket69

Probationary Member
26
0
Jan 15, 2012
Lisle, Illinois
Project going not too bad so far. Got my slowboy racing shortblock. I'll be running 8.8:1 CR with forged internals. Now comes the fun part, the head.

So basically, I just want to get down a list and have it finalized and looked over by people that know more about the 420a than me. At first I will be running my engine N/A for a few months to break in; but all in all, this is a turbo build. Once broken in an I have money for the turbo add on, I will put on the turbo and other small shit. Here's just a list on what I was thinking:

Head: I am looking and having my buddy port and polish it, possibly increase to .5 or 1.0mm oversize valves if necessary (advice please).
Cometic MLS Head Gasket
ARP head studs
SBI Valve guides(cast iron)
SBI Rocker Arms
Topline Lifters/lash adjusters
Crower valve springs and titanium retainers
Crower stage 2 (272/272) or (264/272) or (TG 238/236)
Graveyard motorsport valves(if .5/1.0mm oversize isn't needed)
OBX adj. cam gears
Gates racing TB
MSD SP wires
MSD blaster ignition coil


Followed by a gasket kit and some little shit like seals. I'd just like to get some opinions and advice on it. Thanks.
 
Pretty good list there. I'd ditch the OBX cam gears, and opt for a set of Fidanza's. Otherwise, cam gears don't do much for our cars.

On the rockers and lifters/lash adj's, look for the upgraded 2.4's. They are a direct fit, and will give you better oiling of the valvetrain vs. the 2.0's.

1mm OS valves are not a necessity and you can make plenty of power on standard size valves (hell stock valvetrain for that matter, but if you have the money and want to go for it then go for it. I did, and have no complaints/regrets.

There are mixed feelings on the cams. Guys have ran the turbo grind and found them to be too mild, guys have ran the stage 2's with turbo and have had good results as well. I'm running the standard stage 2's on a NA motor. I think they are 241/241's but I'd have to go back and check my cam card to remember.
 
Pretty good list there. I'd ditch the OBX cam gears, and opt for a set of Fidanza's. Otherwise, cam gears don't do much for our cars.

What are you smoking Cas? The eBay add clearly states minimum of +15whp.. jeeeeese. :p Nah, I completely agree with what you said. Although I have a question, what the hell is a Gates Racing TB? Like what is the size and price? Or do you mean timing belt? Because TB is normally an abbreviation for throttle body.
 
Why the change in the guides? they have excessive wear? cracked?

If the guide R&R goes wrong, you will junk the head...
 
Bah, you should have went 10.5:1 compression.. You are going to hate off boost power LOL.

-Skip the adjustable cam gears
-If you are getting rockers get 2.7L Rockers
-If you are getting lifters get PT Cruiser lifters
-Skip the valve guides
-Not necessarily head related, but if you haven't already switch from the hydraulic tensioner to the mechanical one. Partsdinosaur sells a kit with the tensioner, racing belt, and idler pulley.
-You probably can save yourself money and skip the oversized valves. Just have the old valves reseated and cleaned up.
-Get the Screamin Demon coil, from what I have seen it is the best for our cars.
 
-Get the Screamin Demon coil, from what I have seen it is the best for our cars.

is the screamin demon coil better than Stock?

if i am NA would it give me extra HP?

I had read that Stock outputs 36K volts and SD 40K but also that the joule is the unit for energy. someone somewhere said that the stock coil outputs more joules than the others (including the screamin demon) :hmm:

if screamin demon is better i will get one this week :p
 
Bah, you should have went 10.5:1 compression.. You are going to hate off boost power LOL.

-Skip the adjustable cam gears
-If you are getting rockers get 2.7L Rockers
-If you are getting lifters get PT Cruiser lifters
-Skip the valve guides
-Not necessarily head related, but if you haven't already switch from the hydraulic tensioner to the mechanical one. Partsdinosaur sells a kit with the tensioner, racing belt, and idler pulley.
-You probably can save yourself money and skip the oversized valves. Just have the old valves reseated and cleaned up.
-Get the Screamin Demon coil, from what I have seen it is the best for our cars.

Nice! (as others said - Cas and Steve :D Though I always like to rebuild using SS valves)

I've dyno tested the Screamin' Demon and found it to be a better than stock and MSD coil. When my engine was blowing out spark on the MSD and stocker, I gained 5lbs of boost (from 24lbs to 29lbs on the turbo I was using at the time) by using the SD coil.

And +1 for the Crower 2 NA.

MB
 
Nice! (as others said - Cas and Steve :D Though I always like to rebuild using SS valves)

I've dyno tested the Screamin' Demon and found it to be a better than stock and MSD coil. When my engine was blowing out spark on the MSD and stocker, I gained 5lbs of boost (from 24lbs to 29lbs on the turbo I was using at the time) by using the SD coil.

And +1 for the Crower 2 NA.

MB

what if I use it in my NA??? :D
 
Don't spend money on bigger or aftermarket valves, the stock ones are more than sufficient. The stock guides are also fine for what you are doing. I would just get the valves and seats ground, have it cleaned, surfaced and assembled with new seals and aftermarket springs and retainers.
 
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