1G 2G TPS in a 92 1G

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I know and have read about the 90 TB's but nothing is mentioned about the later TB's.

My IPS has gone and i feel as its its pointless getting another plus is very old tech, Wanting to install a 2G TPS as its all in 1. HOWEVER I bought the Sheridan harness adaptor but its for a 90 harness. NOT 100% sure if its going to work for me but I will see when it arrives.

Has ANYONE done this in a later (91-94) and if so what is the best way to go about it? From memory my TPS only has 3 wires so a straight swap is a no go. I don't believe the 91+ has a connector on the other end that I have seen, Am I thinking I need to wire the IPS directly to the harness adaptor and then splice that into the harness to get 4 wires for the 2G TPS to work?

any help or advice if done would be great, searching brings up 90's only and not the 91+.

 

[steve]

I know and have read about the 90 TB's but nothing is mentioned about the later TB's.

My IPS has gone and i feel as its its pointless getting another plus is very old tech, Wanting to install a 2G TPS as its all in 1. HOWEVER I bought the Sheridan harness adaptor but its for a 90 harness. NOT 100% sure if its going to work for me but I will see when it arrives.

Has ANYONE done this in a later (91-94) and if so what is the best way to go about it? From memory my TPS only has 3 wires so a straight swap is a no go. I don't believe the 91+ has a connector on the other end that I have seen, Am I thinking I need to wire the IPS directly to the harness adaptor and then splice that into the harness to get 4 wires for the 2G TPS to work?

any help or advice if done would be great, searching brings up 90's only and not the 91+.

I'm sure I've posted on the subject many times but the site search chokes on the volume and age.

You can use a 2G TPS and add the fourth wire to connect the old green wire to the 2G internal IPS in the TPS. You still will need a bolt or something to replace the 1G IPS if your is really gone and not just non-functional to act as a stop screw.

So you need a female pin for the TPS connector and a length of wire. When you go to adjust the TPS you would still be adjusting for 0.5v with the throttle closed and check to see that the IPS switches properly or you might have to trade off between the voltage and IPS switching correctly. DSMLink can also work around if you find an issue.

Hope that helps.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I'm sure I've posted on the subject many times but the site search chokes on the volume and age.

You can use a 2G TPS and add the fourth wire to connect the old green wire to the 2G internal IPS in the TPS. You still will need a bolt or something to replace the 1G IPS if your is really gone and not just non-functional to act as a stop screw.

So you need a female pin for the TPS connector and a length of wire. When you go to adjust the TPS you would still be adjusting for 0.5v with the throttle closed and check to see that the IPS switches properly or you might have to trade off between the voltage and IPS switching correctly. DSMLink can also work around if you find an issue.

Hope that helps.

yeah the older posts can get hidden a bit. i went through several but none by you but appreciate the response on my thread.

so i did not need the harness adaptor then (either way its bought now) but if its just connecting the wire i will find the correct terminals to push into the stock connector and just extend the ips wire then. I do plan to keep it in place for visuals and a stop as you mention. I just want it to function better vs using it since both of mine are dead and useless.

I don't have link on this as its an NA, no point in that for this thing.

 

[steve]

How is your 1G IPS dead? Short of serious corrosion or the connector tab breaking off there isn't much to go wrong. The most common problem I see is a lack of grounding for the TB or people "adjusting" them and messing the TB butterfly up.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

How is your 1G IPS dead? Short of serious corrosion or the connector tab breaking off there isn't much to go wrong. The most common problem I see is a lack of grounding for the TB or people "adjusting" them and messing the TB butterfly up.

So its not switching for idle and telling it when its activated. I have full grounds on the TB as i checked via the manifold. Bolts and TB to ground. They all check out. When i do the continuity check on the sensor itself its not working. My friends however does work and he is the same setup as me in terms of bolts on the TB. The sensor is a basic ground activated but both the ones i got dont do anything check checked. I read they do go bad wnd dont switch causing issues so i want to work with the tps vs the ips.

I did the checks you posted here https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/who-do-i-test-the-ips.318002/

I dont have any readings from it at all, however i do the same checks on a friends talon and they work fine! So i just put it down to the sensor itself, sort of like when my door ground switch went bad. No way to fix it but just replace it

 

[pauleyman]

So its not switching for idle and telling it when its activated. I have full grounds on the TB as i checked via the manifold. Bolts and TB to ground. They all check out. When i do the continuity check on the sensor itself its not working. My friends however does work and he is the same setup as me in terms of bolts on the TB. The sensor is a basic ground activated but both the ones i got dont do anything check checked. I read they do go bad wnd dont switch causing issues so i want to work with the tps vs the ips.

I did the checks you posted here https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/who-do-i-test-the-ips.318002/

I dont have any readings from it at all, however i do the same checks on a friends talon and they work fine! So i just put it down to the sensor itself, sort of like when my door ground switch went bad. No way to fix it but just replace it

It's been awhile since I've looked at one but IPS is just a simple continuity switch. Maybe clean it real well including the threads?
You should be able to tell when it grounds just by chasing the continuity between points. Start at the spade and work backwards.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

It's been awhile since I've looked at one but IPS is just a simple continuity switch. Maybe clean it real well including the threads?
You should be able to tell when it grounds just by chasing the continuity between points. Start at the spade and work backwards.

I believe it is also. I can soak it in cleaner (both of them) and see if it helps. I look at its the same workings as the door switch, simple and basic. When they stop not alot you can do if they wear the inside from connecting. Still worth a clean and try though i mainly wanted to just update it for ease and in 1 sensor

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So today i soaked and cleaned BOTH IPS switches. Nothing works. I even grounded the wire to the chassis and nothing. Not sure if it works that way or not. But even trying to ground the sensor more directly also does nothing.

Where does this wire trace to? Its the ecu correct? Know what pin it is as i will have to back trace it to see if its damaged along the way into the chassis

 

[steve]

It's not clear to me from your posts how/what you are testing. There are three parts to diagnosing the IPS.

First is the actual switch and it's really easy. When the throttle is closed the plunger in the IPS gets pushed in and should create continuity between the tab on the end and the switch body itself. If it's not doing so make sure the plunger is being pushed in fully. I haven't peeled off the dust cover or taken the IPS apart to see how the contacts mate to know if it's repairable.

Second is with the IPS disconnected and the ECU up and running you should have a pull-up voltage present on the green wire from ECU. IIRC The voltage of the pull-up varies between 90 and later ECUs. If you don't have the pull-up voltage making sure the wire is connected to the right pin (the next part) and that there is continuity between both ends will decide if it's a wiring issue or an ECU issue.

Third is making sure that the wire from the IPS is connected to the correct ECU pin. Between 90 and later ECUs two signals (IPS and MAF reset) exchanged positions. On 91-94 ECUs the green IPS wire should be connected to pin 14 and on 90 ECUs it's connected to pin 6.

Sorry if I'm being overly pedantic.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Mine also doesn't work. I had to simulate it in Link. I cleaned contacts, I adjust TB properly. It makes good contact, I even took it off and cleaned it with a friends electronic cleaner. No dice. Add me to the list of bad IPS.


I even hooked it up and checked continuity and there was none. Maybe there's something inside that can melt over time or be distorted by heat enough over time that it no longer connects.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

It's not clear to me from your posts how/what you are testing. There are three parts to diagnosing the IPS.

First is the actual switch and it's really easy. When the throttle is closed the plunger in the IPS gets pushed in and should create continuity between the tab on the end and the switch body itself. If it's not doing so make sure the plunger is being pushed in fully. I haven't peeled off the dust cover or taken the IPS apart to see how the contacts mate to know if it's repairable.

Second is with the IPS disconnected and the ECU up and running you should have a pull-up voltage present on the green wire from ECU. IIRC The voltage of the pull-up varies between 90 and later ECUs. If you don't have the pull-up voltage making sure the wire is connected to the right pin (the next part) and that there is continuity between both ends will decide if it's a wiring issue or an ECU issue.

Third is making sure that the wire from the IPS is connected to the correct ECU pin. Between 90 and later ECUs two signals (IPS and MAF reset) exchanged positions. On 91-94 ECUs the green IPS wire should be connected to pin 14 and on 90 ECUs it's connected to pin 6.

Sorry if I'm being overly pedantic.

So I did both those initial checks. No grounding and no voltage. Nada, zip, gonna.

I took those caps off and left them to soak and it was dirty but not bad. Plunger goes all the way in.

If the IPS is a switch for ground, then when you ground the green wire to ground it should automatically activate. I did this and it does nothing so I either have a break in the wire OR as you say the pinout is wrong. I will need to back track it to find out. The ECU was fixed at ECMTuning and was the original ECU from the car but will confirm this again with numbers, if so that's 1 issue out the way as its not an older ECU.

 

[steve]

If the IPS is a switch for ground, then when you ground the green wire to ground it should automatically activate.

Yes, a realtime log would show the Idle Sw Pin changing state. With the throttle closed DSMLink shows a 1 and a 0 when it's the throttle is open.

Based on your last post you have at least two issues.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I dont have link on this NA. Im stuck to the old skool way or solving this .

If the wire itself is bad then going 4 pin tps also wont work as the wires bad. So thats first point of the issue to solve. I will check this out first and see what pin its in plus check its not broken along the way (continuity check) then will proceed from there.

I might open one up to see the insides and how it works. Might be a good thing to learn about also

Mine also doesn't work. I had to simulate it in Link. I cleaned contacts, I adjust TB properly. It makes good contact, I even took it off and cleaned it with a friends electronic cleaner. No dice. Add me to the list of bad IPS.


I even hooked it up and checked continuity and there was none. Maybe there's something inside that can melt over time or be distorted by heat enough over time that it no longer connects.

I cannot simulate but wish i could. I will open one up as not sure how it connects inside. The door switch is a spring and contact point and this should be similar minus the spring. Afterall its just a grounding pin.

My problem is my wire directly grounding to the chassis does nothing either! So even simulating it dont work. So have to check the wire out as it maybe broken or as steve said in the wrong pinout for the ecu (how i wont and dont know) wirings pretty good on this car so thats one good thing as its not been messed with a bunch in that department. Im leaning towards a broken wire (hoping more like)

 

[steve]

Don't forget to check for the pull-up voltage at the ECU pin first. Pull the pin out of the connector and then check to see if the ECU is putting it out. That way if the wire is shorted somewhere it won't invalidate the test.

So really old school is using the multimeter like you are, next generation would be a homebuilt datalogger cable and the TMO logger or MMCd to check the status. Might be useful to have that around.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I haven't done this on a DSM, but have for different reasons on other cars in my past. You can mount a micro switch with a lever that will show when the TB is shut. It takes a little ingenuity, but if you have a DSM, you have that. It's just a matter of putting the switch in the right place to do the same thing, short to ground when the throttle blade is closed fully. Just a thought.

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[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I haven't done this on a DSM, but have for different reasons on other cars in my past. You can mount a micro switch with a lever that will show when the TB is shut. It takes a little ingenuity, but if you have a DSM, you have that. It's just a matter of putting the switch in the right place to do the same thing, short to ground when the throttle blade is closed fully. Just a thought.

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great idea to simulate close. but do we know the point of the stock sensor to create this as it will be a some point not fully connected. there is closed and CLOSED so figuring out the touching/closed is the tricky part. I'm still going the 2G tps route but i need to see if this wire is a problem or not still