2G 2g clutch setup recommendations

[joejoe13]

Life has been crazy but finally got the line in and tank and sending units back in as well. I had to go with the double fuel line clamp on the fuel pump thou. Onward we go.

I really didn’t want to start another thread but now I need to get a clutch for the car. The one in it was slipping prior to the car being parked. Was told by the previous owner it was some cheap one off of eBay. The car was dynoed at 430hp with 400is tq but honestly can’t remember. It will be a street car with maybe a trip or two to the strip. It will be launched on the street for sure . Looking for some setup recommendations for it. It is a 7 bolt as well

 

[joejoe13]

Life has been crazy but finally got the line in and tank and sending units back in as well. I had to how with the double fuel like clamp on the fuel pump thou. Onward we go. I really don’t want to start another thread but now I need to get a clutch for the car. The one in it was slipping prior to the car being parked. Was told by the previous owner it was some cheap one off of eBay. The car was dynoed at 430hp with 400is tq but honestly can’t remember. It will be a street car with maybe a trip or two to the strip. It will be launched on the street for sure . Looking for some setup recommendations for it. It is a 7 bolt as well

After some debating I think this is the route I was going to go. I don’t don’t if I need the xx(2900). Any input would be great folks. As always thanks in advance

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[We're on Boost]

After some debating I think this is the route I was going to go. I don’t don’t if I need the xx(2900). Any input would be great folks. As always thanks in advance

I think the ACT parts you show are good units. The 6-pad ceramic disc you show is a little bit hard-core in terms of it hooks up suddenly, so in situations where you want to slip the clutch while maneuvering around in a gas station/parking lot/garage etc, it's a lot trickier than a regular street organic disc.

Don't get the XX (2900) pressure plate. It's more clamp force than you need for anywhere around 400 ft-lbs of torque. Puts more strain on the crankshaft thrust bearing (crankwalk).

The XT (2700) pressure plate is a good unit. It would give you enough torque capacity even with the Street Organic disc. With the 6-puck ceramic disc you'd have even more torque capacity.
The ACT street organic disc is a nice working disc on the street and it gave me enough torque capacity with the XT pressure plate for my engine.
The XT pressure plate is still not "light" by any means and it would be a good idea to disable that switch on your clutch pedal so you can start the engine without pushing down the clutch pedal (crankshaft thrust bearing again).

The max torque capacities listed by ACT on their website are low in my opinion. In other words the clutches will transmit quite a bit more than what ACT claims in that rating.

I don't run my engine above 8,000 rpm so I can't comment really about the problem some people have shifting at very high rpms with these ACT clutches.

The Streetlite flywheel is a good part with no downside that I know of. I liked mine and even had it reground one time.

There are SBC clutches that would be good too but I don't know much about them.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I agree with the organic and ceramic comment. Unless your clutch is working super hard I would go with an organic disc. Organic is going to wear out faster but is much smoother if an engagement in my opinion.

As far as the SBC comment I absolutely loved all the SBC I have installed. I put a twin disc in my 2nd gen and it was the quietest and smoothest engaging clutch that could hold the power that I had.

Since I have installed that exact clutch in my cousins 2nd gen and in my buddies 4th gen and they both love. The 4th gen is a true work truck and he works the piss outta that thing.

I personally run a comp stage 4 6 puck sprung along with the act flywheel you have posted. Judging by my left calf when I drive it she’s pretty heavy on the pp though. Holds my torque though and I have no complaints. I have my clutch switch disconnected also.


-Daniel

 

[joejoe13]

How fast do you think that street disk will wear out? I’m trying to build my own kit currently so I don’t pay for a throw out bearing that I won’t use. Here is the pressure plate i am going to go with then. Is this the disk you guys were talking about

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[We're on Boost]

How fast do you think that street disk will wear out? I’m trying to build my own kit currently so I don’t pay for a throw out bearing that I won’t use. Here is the pressure plate i am going to go with then. Is this the disk you guys were talking about

Yes, the MB010X and the 3000303 are what I was talking about. They are the parts you would get with the "MB1-XTSS - XT/Perf Street Sprung" clutch kit. I had that on my car from 2016 to 2019.

I'm not sure how fast that clutch would wear out really. I put less than 2,000 miles on mine because my transmission broke and then I needed a disc with a non-standard hub for the 1" input shaft on my new tranny.
I think I still have the disc from it. If I can find it tomorrow I could take a pic of it and even measure the thickness of it with a dial caliper. It's in pretty good shape. But I didn't do race launches with it.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have ran a lightweight flywheel before and I prefer a stock flywheel. The stock flywheel has more weight so leaving a stoplight or stop sign, I don't have to rev the car much to get it to move. The lighter the flywheel, the more you will be using RPMs to get the vehicle moving. On my old school Chevy stuff, I used to run the big 11" Truck flywheels and clutches so it stored inertia in the flywheel and I didn't have to rev the motor up a lot to get moving. If drag racing, I didn't have to try to leave to hard either because the big flywheel stored the energy. It is just something that I prefer, I am sure others like the lightweight units but I also bet they have to use more RPM's to do it. Just my .02¢ from my own experiences.

 

[joejoe13]

Well I’m clutch shopping now. Looks like extreme psi offers their kits with the oem tob as well. Would you guys replace the flywheel bolts as well? I have no idea the brand that were in it. I am worried about going with the organic disk not holding the power

 

[We're on Boost]

Would you guys replace the flywheel bolts as well?

I would get new bolts, yes.

I am worried about going with the organic disk not holding the power

Well, it will take the amount of torque you are talking about very well, unless you burn it up by doing a lot of hard launches with purposely slipping the clutch instead of spinning the tires. I don't think you'd be able to do that with a ceramic disc either because it would just bite and you'd spin the tires. But as far as just the ~400 ft-lbs or so from the engine, no problem.

Take a look at my dyno chart (on my specs and photos page). 650 whp and 511 ft-lbs torque. That was dyno run 13. My ACT XT w organic disc did all those dyno pulls, then a little test driving by the shop guys at English Racing afterwards, then the time on the car with me.
I did find the disc today, took some shots of it, and measured the thickness with a Mitutoyo dial caliper.
The disc does look really good. The streaks like strings that you see in the friction material are like strings of copper or something. Anyway it all looks like it is supposed to.
The thickness measures about 0.312 inches.
ACT says a new disc is 8mm thick, that's 0.315 inches.
Jeez, my disc has like no wear?
Here are the pics I took today, both sides of the disc:

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[joejoe13]

No it doesn’t. Seems like it was working just fine. I will be launching the car on the street every once in a while but like the idea of a less harsh engagement. I’m guessing their tq ratings are at the wheel and not the flywheel? I just don’t want to have to pull the tranny back out after 5k miles due to a slipping clutch

 

[We're on Boost]

ACT says a new disc is 8mm thick

Gotta expand on this a little:
ACT says in the general instructions that 8mm is the thickness "when compressed". I suppose they mean with the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel and the disc is in there with the full force of the pressure plate on it, then you measure it. I've never done that.
As for what's in there that could even compress enough to be measurable, it must be the marcel. But in their writeup for this particular disc they say it has "flattened marcel". So I don't think it would compress much, probably only a few thou.
Anyway yeah the disc is in great shape.

I will be launching the car on the street every once in a while but like the idea of a less harsh engagement. I’m guessing their tq ratings are at the wheel and not the flywheel? I just don’t want to have to pull the tranny back out after 5k miles due to a slipping clutch

Their torque rating, I don't know what all they bake into it but it must be a lot more than just how much torque it can take when new. The rating just seems really low compared to what me and some other people have done with it. As far as how long it will last with an occasional hard launch, I'm not really a good one to say about that since I don't do hard launches. I mean, that's because I worry about the rest of the drivetrain (tranny, rear end, driveshaft). The clutch is the least of my worries in that area.

The twin disc I have now has ceramic discs and it is harsh, sudden, all that stuff.
What I do to make it a lot easier for street driving is set the launch limit in ECMlink to 3000 rpm. Then I don't have to be so slow and careful about how I start from 0mph. Even if I goof it up a little it probably won't kill the engine, and the revs are not so excessive as to put a lot of unnecessary wear on the clutch. So I'm hoping it will still last a long time. My Quartermaster "street" flywheel weighs about the same as an ACT Streetlite, I think. I could probably look that up.
The downside of this for somebody who occasionally wants to do a hard "race" type of launch is that you would need the launch rev limit set a lot higher. Probably 5,000rpm or so. And we don't have a 2-stage launch limit in DSMlink. I don't even know what it's called, that's just what I would call it. It would go by throttle %. It would let you set 2 rev limits and it would pick which one to use based on what your throttle % is going into it.

Here's what one of my soft easy starts from 0mph and 3000rpm launch limit looks like in a log. Just showing rpm, throttle%, and speed. RPM low point was 959 rpm, pretty typical. This one was a good one. You can tell by the red line (rpm) leveling off for about half a second at around 1900 rpm before getting dragged the rest of the way down to 959 or whatever. That's from pausing the clutch pedal at just the right place on the way out. If I mess it up, like by letting the pedal out too fast, the rpm will drop lower of course, maybe 700 or so. My cams are GSC S2, not the wildest, so yes the engine does still run at 700 rpm!

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My LinWideband is still my old AEM one that won't log, so ignore that.

 

[joejoe13]

I went with the 2600 pressure plate and the organic disk and oem tob. Thanks for all your help everyone

 

[We're on Boost]

I went with the 2600 pressure plate and the organic disk and oem tob. Thanks for all your help everyone

Hope it goes great for you!

 

[joejoe13]

It should be showing up today so the install can begin