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2.3L stroker build

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95eclipseSlow

15+ Year Contributor
131
2
Dec 10, 2007
Taylor, Michigan
I have read a lot building a stroker motor. The only thing I need help with is the rod choice. At first I was going to go for the eagle h beams but I saw somewhere in a thread that because a 2.3L has a lot more torque, the hp rating on a rod is lowered because of more load. I am looking to put down between 600-700awhp.Eagle is rated in the 600 range.Do you guys think I will be fine with the eagle h beams? I also have more questions but i want to ask them one at a time.Car will be mostly strip, but will see the street on the weekends.I will be running the gt35r. I am of course going to upgrade fuel, intake, trans ,drivetrain, etc. Heres my 7 bolt shortblock build list so far.

Ross Racing 2.3 stroker pistons 9.0:1 and .030 over.
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
ACL race (tri-metal) main, and rod bearings standard size.
ACL thrust washers
New 4g64 crank
 
I went with scat/wiseco 9:1 2.3 with a brand new OEM 64 crank. Kiggly I think runs an OEM crank and so does another tuners member who's running 9's. Now, they're running lighter rods than I so that would help in the stress catagory...
 
i like garrett turbos. i dont have to swap anything out i can just bolt it up. how much boost will i be able to run on 93 pump with no meth, how much boost on e85 no meth? will a bar and plate style ebay intercooler be fine? i had one on my old car, had no problems with it. what size intercooler piping? 3" ?
 
i like garrett turbos. i dont have to swap anything out i can just bolt it up. how much boost will i be able to run on 93 pump with no meth, how much boost on e85 no meth? will a bar and plate style ebay intercooler be fine? i had one on my old car, had no problems with it. what size intercooler piping? 3" ?

Until you see knock.
 
In all honesty I wouldn't do a top line crank. When you set a goal of making high hp you want to make sure you don't skimp on anything. Im currently building a 2.3 and I went with the weisco, manley turbo tuff, new eagle 100mm crank. I've seen alot of people selling the eagle crank in classifieds brand new. Its better to be over prepared then under prepared.


There seem to be some issues with the Eagle cranks. One is quality control. The other is that they may have timed the oil holes wrong which means after a certain rpm it stops oiling the rods. I believe someone at Winberg Crankshaft may have confirmed that.
 
I have seen porblems with the eagle clearances as well.. SOme guy just had some major issues.. Spent like 2000 on balancing, the crank, ect and he was disappointed with how small the tolerance was..

Stock crank does 1000hp.. Why go with something else and spend that money elsewhere...

Well i would say looking the punishment FMIC.. there like 360.. Its a good deal for a nice FMIC. I would say SSAC ebay FMIC but good luck finding one LOL.. 2.5 in piping should be sufficent

I would say in the 30 psi range.. Buy injectors once, buy a fuel pump once, buy a nice tuning program..

If you keep your eyes open and search hard you can find great deals.. Ex. I bought DSMlink yesterday for 285 shipped...
should be here monday!!!
 
There seem to be some issues with the Eagle cranks. One is quality control. The other is that they may have timed the oil holes wrong which means after a certain rpm it stops oiling the rods. I believe someone at Winberg Crankshaft may have confirmed that.

That's kind of a weird thing to say... Any proof on this would be good. And just 1 shop saying so isn't going to work. I've seen 0 issues from anyone using an Eagle crank, regarding oiling.
 
It was on the dsmlink forums.. One guy was talking about using the crank and having problems with the oil holes and then another guy posted a link to his build and i got into reading his and his went way more in depth.. He had clearance issues.. His crank was sooo close to spec. I actually think it was just under and thats what upset him... Not everyday do you hear about eagle cranks being used and then you hear about 2 problems... just saying..
 
That's kind of a weird thing to say... Any proof on this would be good. And just 1 shop saying so isn't going to work. I've seen 0 issues from anyone using an Eagle crank, regarding oiling.

I believe a guy named Lucas at Carz on Colorado was the one who brought it up somewhere. He went to Winberg and had them make a crankshaft. The cross drilled holes in the crank have to be drilled at precise spots. If they are not centrifical force will actually stop the oil in the crankshaft. Now it may have been early production stuff I have know idea. To be honest Eagle cranks aren't anything special. I would consider them the Mcdonalds of forged cranks.
 
I really recommend just snagging up a used crank. I've not used but one topline crank (and it broke all up). I've used oem cut cranks for years and beat the hell out of them with great results. In the long run it will be cheaper; in the short run it will be cheaper.

If you can't find a clean crank, don't hesitate cutting it 10 under. Teh nitriding doesn't make the crank structurally stronger (it's only for the bearing surface). And the nitriding goes .02-.03" deep. So it still will be there. The main thing. FAR more important than even having any nitriding left is magnafluxing the crank before polishing. Cranks break because of microfractures from overheating when a bearing scores it. NOT because the nitriding was removed.

Coltboostin's 700whp colt and Kevin Jewer's RWD monster are some of the built sirius motors using cut cranks.
 
alright so a used stock crank will be fine. i just need to have a machinist check it out and clean it up? my friend has a crank for $200. With the punishment racing fmic kit it says 650hp but tested to 40psi so that should be fine right and 2.5" ic piping is sufficient? The intercooler thats on the car now is like 26x9x3
 
When running a used crank it is wise to have the machinist remove the crankshaft oil galley soft plugs to provide access for thorough cleaning of the oil galleys.
Then it's up to them how they will plug the holes.
I've read that some machinist's drill and tap, then install a set-screw with high strength loc-tite, but there are other methods too.
 
which greddy bov will hold 30-40psi? im going to get the intercooler kit from punishment racing for $360 and there tubing is flanged for greddy bov. Where do i dump the wastegate into the exhaust at? I was looking at the punishment racing t3 manifold/o2 housing/dump tube package. the turbo will be v-band and i want the wastegate v-band also on bottom and side. im going to use the tial v44. is this kit any good?

DSM t3 manifold/o2 housing/ dumptube package
 
i would personally go with a tial BOV, either the 50mm or Q will work great for you.

and regarding the punishment kit, i would say that is an awesome price for what you are getting. i have never heard anything really bad about their products!!
 
the tial bovs only come with up to an 11psi spring dont they?? should i just call punishment racing and see if i can get just the intercooler because its stupid to get all the piping and i can only use a couple pieces.
 
i still dont know which bov to run and for the compressor housing on the turbo do i want
T04S Ported Shroud or just T04S??
 
so whats the deal with the tial bov? it says 11psi spring?? what am i going to have to do for ignition at 35psi+??
 
I bought a Tial once and the bastard always leaked, but i think it was the second hand part i bought not the quality of their stuff.

I always had great success with their wastegates
 
I have seen 40 psi one two greddy type-s BOVs.. Both held fine.. You can adjust how tight the spring is... I run a greddy type-s... Good luck with the build
 
so whats the deal with the tial bov? it says 11psi spring?? what am i going to have to do for ignition at 35psi+??

If you look up on the tial site, there are springs for the bov that match what vacuum you pull at idle. Match up accordingly.

As for the ignition, I have seen the stock ignition go very far. I wouldn't replace the stock stuff until you have issues.
 
alright so greddy type-s bov or tial? which one would be better for my setup? which compressor housing should i get? T04S Ported Shroud or just T04S? will i need a girdle?
 
Ive been running a g4cs 2.4 with my gt42 setup for awhile now. At the crank im sure its making close to 700hp on pump gas. No issues what so ever. The rods come apart usually because of the rod bolt. My one friend made 843 when he had a eagle h-beam let go. Thats over 900 at the crank.
 
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