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2.3L stroker build

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95eclipseSlow

15+ Year Contributor
131
2
Dec 10, 2007
Taylor, Michigan
I have read a lot building a stroker motor. The only thing I need help with is the rod choice. At first I was going to go for the eagle h beams but I saw somewhere in a thread that because a 2.3L has a lot more torque, the hp rating on a rod is lowered because of more load. I am looking to put down between 600-700awhp.Eagle is rated in the 600 range.Do you guys think I will be fine with the eagle h beams? I also have more questions but i want to ask them one at a time.Car will be mostly strip, but will see the street on the weekends.I will be running the gt35r. I am of course going to upgrade fuel, intake, trans ,drivetrain, etc. Heres my 7 bolt shortblock build list so far.

Ross Racing 2.3 stroker pistons 9.0:1 and .030 over.
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts
ACL race (tri-metal) main, and rod bearings standard size.
ACL thrust washers
New 4g64 crank
 
I like the H beams better than the I beams.

If you search there are tons of build threads you can see what worked and didnt work for other people
 
weisco strokers and scat h beams.. Someone went with that build at the dsmgraveyard today
 
i searched but there isnt a lot about eagle h beam rods and a 2.3 stroker. None of the threads talk about how much hp these rods can probably handle on a 2.3 stroker. Viper, was that motor in the same hp range as me? I just wanna know if these rods will be all I need.
 
The amount of power the rods can handle isn't specifically related to what piston you use. The Eagle HBeam has been proven on many different builds up into 650hp range or more. I'm using Eagle rods on my 2.4L build.
 
The last time I checked, the Eagle H-beam rods were rated by Eagle at either 1000 or 1100 crank hp. This was for the 2008-2009 year I beleive. I prefer I-beam designs.
 
The last time I checked, the Eagle H-beam rods were rated by Eagle at either 1000 or 1100 crank hp. This was for the 2008-2009 year I beleive. I prefer I-beam designs.

^^^ x 2. I beams are MUCH stronger...also, i have seen Eagles come apart at 650 ish. I wouldnt reliably trust them much past 600 whp especially in a 2.3 stroker where there is much more stress on the rotating assembly because of the rod angle. The cat and carillo H beams are pretty stout..but if your goals are 700hp range id just over built it to be safe, and rock the i beams.
 
Took this off a website that sells Carrillo Rods, but they think they're gold or something.
I have found the H-Beams with the WMC rod bolts for $700 for a set when purchased with pistons and/or a crankshaft.
And I just found the H-Beams with the CARR rod bolts for $900 when purchased with pistons and/or a crankshaft.

Supposedly Carrillo makes the best connecting rod on the planet.
Another good thing about them is if they get heavily abused, they will bend a lot more than the comparable rods in that price range before they window your block!

"Carrillo offers a wide variety of connecting rods to suit every type of import and sport compact application. Each connecting rod is manufactured from CarrilLOLoy, a proprietary blend of steels and alloys, which is similar to 4340. The Pro-H with Carrillo Multiphase (CARR) Rod Bolts H-Beam connecting rods are the strongest rods available anywhere and are nearly indestructible. These rods are for extreme horsepower application that are performing at extreme heat and rpms. The Pro-H with H11 (WMC) Rod Bolts are a heavy duty H-Beam connecting rods that are very strong and suitable for 250 horsepower per rod."
 
600 hp on an hx40... Sorry for the delay.. I have actually talked to alot of people about the rods and scat keeps popping up...
 
600 hp on an hx40... Sorry for the delay.. I have actually talked to alot of people about the rods and scat keeps popping up...

Your profile pic in your gallery is sick!
2gb/2ga conversion with Talon sides FTMFW.
Are you stroked?
I plan on running a HX35 on a Long Rod 2.0L...

On another note, why can't I see people's Avatars when I'm logged in?
But if I'm offline, I can see them?
Anyone know the answer to that?
 
There was a thread on metal hardness,

when it comes down to the material in the H beam was much stronger per square in inch.

that was this forum i believe im looking for the link right now.

It was a good read.

not saying i am right just posting what i read.
 
I'm in the last stage of a 2.3l build. Wiseco pistons and eagle h-beam rods. Eagle says they are good to 600 but that is very conservative! They will handle much more. Don't be scared to run them.

I'm actually going to be using a HX40 when the time is right.
 
I'm actually going with a wiseco/eagle combo in a stroker. I've just had good luck with that combo in the past with other builds. My bolt on hx40 should be a perfect match to the engine.

If your going to be running at the edge of what the rods have been known to be good for.... you might as well not risk it and save some more and get stronger I beam rods. Having Rods go out is usually a pretty catastrophic (expensive) failure.
 
I'd say go for the I-Beams

Here's a comparrison i did with Manley-I Beams and Manley-H Beams

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Im going to just go with the eagle h beams. A lot of people have had great success with these rods. Now for the crank, extremepsi has a sale on the topline 100mm crank. Any input on that crank? I searched but only 2 results showed and they did not help. Now i cant afford an eagle crank so its either a reman. new crank or the topline crank. Which one? Will my car make it to 700awhp when it is only able to rev to 8000rpm safely?
 
As critical as you are of the rods you choose (which is good) and with a goal of 700awhp, you don't want to skimp on the crank. Although in most cases the cranks in these motors are reportedly pretty tough, do you want to chance it with an unknown reman?

FWIW, I went with Eagle H-beams, Weisco 8.8:1's, and an Eagle 4340 crank from extremepsi for my 2.3l build.
 
well the topline crank is a brand new core its not reman. topline crank is also about $400 cheaper. are topline cranks any good?
 
are topline cranks any good?

Can't say... but I know from experience that some of their stuff is really good...and some of it isn't so hot. Personally I wouldn't want to take the chance that their cranks fall into the latter category. :)

I know where you're coming from. I put off getting a crank for a long time. I was originally leaning towards a Mitsu 2.4L stock crank, but there was just too much uncertainty as to what I would end up with, unless I paid big $$$ for one from a dealer. After reading everything I could find and talking to some respected local engine builders, the consensus was that the Eagle cranks are nice pieces, and I didn't really ever find any haters of them. So I just waited an extra month or two until I could go with a new Eagle.

That's just me though...I'm sure others can chime in with actual experience with the Topline or other cranks. Just try to be patient. ;)
 
I think the only thing I would buy from topline is their lifters. Even that's a stretch for me.

If you wanted to save some money, source out a 2.4l crank.

Like already stated though, If your going to build a engine that will support a ton of power, why not put the best parts in it. Save up the money and just go with the eagle crank. This is the route I would take.
 
alright then i will just get the eagle crank. With the gt35r I was thinking about the t3 .82
do you guys think that will get me to where i want to be? what compressor side inlet sizes should i choose?
 
In all honesty I wouldn't do a top line crank. When you set a goal of making high hp you want to make sure you don't skimp on anything. Im currently building a 2.3 and I went with the weisco, manley turbo tuff, new eagle 100mm crank. I've seen alot of people selling the eagle crank in classifieds brand new. Its better to be over prepared then under prepared.
 
I would try calling DSM graveyard... When i was in there getting my build quoted they said they could get the 2.4 crank..

Im trying to keep my build price down... Thats why the weisco/scat combo with a stock 2.4 crank.. Im getting delta regrind 272s and a freshened non ported but polished and deburred head..

STRM TRPR-Thanks for the comment on the combo.. Its taken me a while on the combo.. Im debating on the wing now..


O.P.- are you particular to the garret turbos... Honestly for the price why not go with a hx35 or hx40.. If you wanted to you could go with a smaller t3 BEP housing to increase spool and still have a cheap BAD ASS turbo that flows enough for you goals... You might even hit that HP on a DSM BEP housing with a HX40.
 
336-475-8277 This guy has a 4g64 crank from a 97 Galant, $80

501-945-8880 This guy has a 4g64 crank from a 95 Galant, $100

508-921-4444 This guy has a 4g64 engine with 71k miles from a 97 Galant, $200
 
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