The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2.3L stroker build suggestions?? Chime in please!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

EclipticalGS

10+ Year Contributor
1,449
19
Aug 25, 2008
walker, Michigan
:hellyeah:Well, i had a fresh motor put in, but reflecting the work done (not by me) I am going to need/want a new motor in at least 6 months.

I was introduced to a stroker by a member on here named twicks, watched his vids and love his beastly 2.3. But, I want this just for a DD/ WW.

Another thing that struck me is where the power curve is, and the fact that I like a stock 7K redline just for mental reasons.

So here I am engine stand in my bedroom, with a 6-bolt bare block.

Goals of 400-450 hp.

The block is being sent in soon for the typical stuff,

*.020 over
*hot tank
*blasted
*decked
*fluxed

and now comes my choice of a stroker kit....

Who has used MAPerformances Stroker kit??

Eagle Crank, Eagle rods, and Wiseco or mahle? pistons, acl race bearings, and arp mains for $1650 sounds good...

or should I piece my own together for $1550 with:

Eagle Crank
Scat rods
Eagle or Ross Pistons
Acl bearings
Arp mains

Things I will plan to run/ some questions.

Block:
*6-bolt .020
*oil squirters
*BSEK
*6-bolt front case, new seals, gaskets, etc.
*Stroker kit, still not sure what to get yet, 9.0 Compress.
*Arp head studs, mains, rod bolts

Head:
*stock 2G head that had an oem rebuild, new seals, lifters, valves, springs, retainers, guides. all oem
*So my plan is just to add some Supertech springs/retainers and some 272's to the head, if anyone thinks i need something else in the head, lemme know!?
*Slight port work if i have it apart
Since strokers dont need to high rev, I am justt doing the springs and retainers so I can have 272's. All the other oem stuff should take me to my goals, if not maybe a Seat grind grind and oversize valves.

Turbo/plumbing:
*HX-40 i got, rebuilt, snagged it for $350.
*DSM flanged BEP housing for the hx40, going to be ceramic coated
*FP race manifold, ceramic coated
or does anyone think a dsm flange wont flow good??
Should i get a T3 mani. and T3 BEP Housing?
*Open dump 02 housing fabbed by me, with 38mm flange, ceramic coated
*Tial Gate
*Punishment DP
*Thermal R&D cat back
*Greddy Type S BOV
*Punishment intercooler
*Stock 2G ported intake
*3.5" GM MAF

Tuning/fuel/spark:
*Ecmlink v3
*Wally 255, unless my 190 will suffice?
*1000cc injectors, 93 Pump Gas
*Aero FPR
*Stock Ignition with MSD wires, ngk 8e's plugs.

Clutch stuff/tranny:
*ACT 2600 PP
*Exedy Disk
*Xact LW Flywheel
*oem TOB, oem fork, oem slave, steel braided line, oem master
*Poly mounts, solid shifter bushings
*Going through my tranny and doing some strengthening. Shouldnt be hard its a FWD LOL.

Random stuff:
*my fabbed sealed (2) Catch cans, should be well for DD.
*keeping all of my accesories, PS, A/C, CC.
*wires are already tucked enough
*my fabbed alt. heat shield, 02 dump killed my friends alt.

Suspension:
*Tokico blues
*Megan springs
*new ball joints, rod ends, oem axles
*Hawk pads, Drilled/slotted rotors
*front upper brace, rear strut bar, rear c-pillar.
*18x7.5 Konig Ziege with 245/35/18 BF Goodrich g-force

Car will not be tracked much, maybe once/ twice a year. Mainly just want a 2.3 torque monster.:hellyeah:

I have 70% of the stuff listed up there, some of the things I dont have yet are where I asked questions, If anyone can help answer some of those questions, or give me some input, even if you want to try to sway me to stay 2.0L, go for it!!

This is not a necessarily a "build" thread because it wont expect to be done within the next 6-months, Im just going over my part list and want you all to catch flaws or parts that I need. Thanks!!
 
A stroker is when you use use a crank with a longer stroke and pistons to work with it to increase the displacement of the engine. The most common case for a 4G63 is to use the 2.0 block with a 100mm stroke crank from a 4G64 with pistons that have the pin height moved so they won't hit the head to give you 2.3l of displacement.
 
RockyHorrorShow 2.3



Eagle 100mm Crankshaft
Groden 150mm Aluminum Rods
Mahle Stroker Pistons
Kiggly Main Girdle

Kiggy Valve Springs
FFWD Connection DKS 272 Cams
Supertech 1mm Over Sized Valves

ARP Standard Head Studs
ARP Main Studs

ACL Bearings
Mitsubishi MLS Head Gasket


Best damn stroker set-up you can piece together!
 
ok.. so as long as i keep it the same height and use the same crank then i'm good??

The setup you listed should be a pretty nice 2.0 motor, not a stroker. Should be a cool motor when it is built.
 
Hey everyone im new and need help asap

i baught a 95' tsi

it needs a tune BAD, i have the software but due to the fact that its all aftermarket and im new to tuning i need help, here is what i was told is put in the car (99.9% sure its all corect)

6 bolt motor
2.3 stroker from slow boy racing
Weisco pistons eagle rods
4g64 crankshaft remanned
Upgraded valve springs and retainers
Race valves (1mm over)
Coil on plug system
NGk plugs
Oil cooler
Koyo radiator
Gates racing timing belt

Shepard stage 3 trans with all options.
Act extreme clutch.
Lightweight fly wheel

FIC 850cc injectors
wally 255 pump

3 inch cat less down pipe
3 inch pipe back to muffler

Precision sc62 turbo
Ram horn style manifold
Tial 35mm wastegate
God speed intercooler
3inch intercooler piping
Tial bov new model
Turbo xs dual stage boost controller




The car starts like crap, idles like crap, and drives like crap..
A/F is way off but the engine needs broken in (drive 200ish miles without boosting it) before a final tune, it only has less than 50 miles on it.

new to tuning but i need to smooth it out the best i can so i can drive the car to break it in WITHOUT breaking the car..

it has dsmlink v3 and i have the software...

i need help (practically walked through) getting this thing tuned up the best i can..

it either has a weak starter or its to lean to start because i have to give it gas to get it to start up it seems like.

i need specs based on what is done to the car and personal "dos and don'ts" so that i can get this done if you can help please pm me.. im sorry for posting this on multiple places on here but im ting to get this mostly done tomarrow

PM
or
email: [email protected]

thanks for ANY help...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here is the deal man, you can build a 2.0 6 bolt for a lot cheaper if you use the stock crank if its buildable. I went the 2.3 route and with bigger turbos like my 3076hta you start getting to a place where when our running boost you start needing a lot more other things built to take it. like trans, center diff etc. Currently in my 2g there isn't a factory style gear that WON'T explode (3/4). So that is something to consider. The head doesn't need much attention to spin the motor to 9 k in a 2.0. Just valve springs and ti retainers, unless your using beehive springs with al or ti retainers. NOTE last night i saw some aluminum retainers that were DESTROYED LOL. So if you want to build it beefy, take some of the cash for the crank and put that in valve springs. With proper tune it will be more than enough power to put a smile on your face. ARP everything, Wiseco hd(std ones are crap), eagle rods, and stock crank will take you to 600 with good tuning. Call nate at MA Performance and he will get you good pricing on all that. :)
 
Here is the deal man, you can build a 2.0 6 bolt for a lot cheaper if you use the stock crank if its buildable. I went the 2.3 route and with bigger turbos like my 3076hta you start getting to a place where when our running boost you start needing a lot more other things built to take it. like trans, center diff etc. Currently in my 2g there isn't a factory style gear that WON'T explode (3/4). So that is something to consider. The head doesn't need much attention to spin the motor to 9 k in a 2.0. Just valve springs and ti retainers, unless your using beehive springs with al or ti retainers. NOTE last night i saw some aluminum retainers that were DESTROYED LOL. So if you want to build it beefy, take some of the cash for the crank and put that in valve springs. With proper tune it will be more than enough power to put a smile on your face. ARP everything, Wiseco hd(std ones are crap), eagle rods, and stock crank will take you to 600 with good tuning. Call nate at MA Performance and he will get you good pricing on all that. :)

Did you even read his post? He's not asking what motor to build...he already has a brand new 2.3l stroker and just needs help tuning it and breaking it in.

OP... I responded to the duplicate post you made in the other guy's thread, but here it is again:

1. You need to update your profile to show all the mods done to your car, and change the description to reflect that it is a turbo, not N/T.

2. You have a lot of reading to do. You are going to have to be able to at least get the simple basics out of the way either on your own, or by finding someone local to help you out.

Start here: ECMLink Knowledgebase.
 
Once I get on the computer I'll clean the mess I made on the forum last night, thanks for the link man

Oh, and I'm a "new member" can I post a tread about this so I don't have to steal someone elses? Any help? Where so I post it (what category)


Threads cleaned up and profile updated, sorry guys..
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top