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1Gb Talon Rust Revival

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I've run through it all. I'll check out the intake manifold again this weekend to make sure. It's the JMF intake mani that has the o-ringed head flange, so I don't need a gasket there. The throttle plate shouldn't be closed 100% to prevent sticking, but even when I have let out the throttle plate screw all the way, it hasn't made a difference. I'm wondering if I don't have a massive crack in the intercooler core that I'm just not able to see, so that's where I'll be spending most of my time next weekend. I appreciate the tips though.
That wouldn't matter as that's before the throttle plate. Don't suppose you're running a 1g intake on a 2g head?
 
IC leak won’t affect idle, but it would affect boost

Your problem is between the TB and the intake manifold head flange.
Dammit, you're right, I wasn't thinking. The TB was leaking a bit but it wasn't a huge leak. Even so, with Speed Density, it's not a big enough leak to jump idle that high. I'll check the intake manifold but I didn't hear anything or see anything there. If anything I'll remove and reinstall to be sure.

That wouldn't matter as that's before the throttle plate. Don't suppose you're running a 1g intake on a 2g head?
JMF street intake on a 1g head.
 
Dammit, you're right, I wasn't thinking. The TB was leaking a bit but it wasn't a huge leak. Even so, with Speed Density, it's not a big enough leak to jump idle that high. I'll check the intake manifold but I didn't hear anything or see anything there. If anything I'll remove and reinstall to be sure.


JMF street intake on a 1g head.
Injector seals also - the tip of the injector needs to hold vacuum/boost.
 
I was gonna say when I first started my car up on the current new set up with an s90 my car was idling crazy at like 4 grand and it was simply the throttle plate screw was adjusted in too far, that portion is tricky to get dialed in just right but if it’s idling that high there’s obviously way too much air entering the intake
 
alright, we made some progress on the idle this weekend guys (I appreciate all the help thinking this through with me).
I had mentioned last weekend I did a smoke test and boost leak test. Here's my boost leak tester and my smoke machine and where I inserted it to check for leaks. I used the brake booster hose. Only smoke leaks were at the TB.
IMG_2765.jpg
IMG_2766.jpg
IMG_2767.jpg


I also needed some more real estate at my battery terminals. I noticed that the Odyssey batteries have a threaded post so I did some digging and found the appropriate hardware to allow me to utilize that. I now have the main harness on one post and my fuel pump and amp on the other. Makes it easier and cleaner down there. ALso used it for the grounds.
IMG_2848.jpg
IMG_2854.jpg


Next up was removing the intake manifold to check for massive leaks. It's not a super hard job, I just had to remember the order to remove things in order to get to all the IM bolts.

IMG_2843.jpg


nothing really stood out for me that would be causing a leak....BUT, when I removed the IM, one of the o-rings did fall off rather easily. Upon reinstall I noticed it didn't stay in the groove easily and firmly like all the other ones. So it POSSIBLE maybe this o-ring was not seated all the way or perhaps became twisted when I originally installed it. There were no crushed spots on it and it was still in really good shape. I used some RTV to make sure it was seated properly and let it dry before re-install.
orings.jpg


I also took this time to remove the TB and RTV the damn thing upon reinstall as the paper gasket it comes with looks pretty worthless. Also reset the throttle plate screw while I had easy access to see the plate. Did about a half-turn once I saw it just start opening.
IMG_2844.jpg


Got it all reinstalled again, checked to make sure al the o-rings were good and buttoned her back up. Let her sit for 24hrs to allow the RTV to cure. I then re-set my throttle cable and TPS at .63v. I then started her up and she settled right down to a healthy 1400 rpms while warming up. After warm though I got idle surge from about 1000-1500rpms. Not great, but it's an improvement...something changed so I'll take it.

Also, I'm having a massive brain fart...where does this connector go? I'm thinking it was something for the cruise control, but I can't remember and I saw it dangling there today so.......anybody? And no, it's not the ISC connector or the grounding pin connector.

IMG_2762.jpg
 
Real quick update for you guys. I'm a bit frustrated. I got her all back together and started her up and my idle immediately jumps up to 4k and stays there. Checking boost leaks revealed a few (especially around the S90, which I guess is a common problem). I fixed them up where possible and set the throttle cable, tps, checked the ISC and all good. STILL jumping up to 4k idle and staying there. The thing I'm having a problem rationalizing is I have it switched to Speed Density, so some boost leaks shouldn't impact the idle too much anymore anyway. Gonna rip my front bumper off and pressurize the intercooler to make sure there...I also have a JM race bumper coming too since I'm in there, might as well lighten up the front a bit and make more room for a bigger intercooler core just in case.
It’s probably the S90, get Nick Rollison to rebuild your s90. Well worth it.
 
First I've heard of anyone rebuilding these things. How do I get in touch with him?
I know he’s been doing it a few years. Exceptional service, had it back to me in a few days. I sought his service off Facebook .
 
I know he’s been doing it a few years. Exceptional service, had it back to me in a few days. I sought his service off Facebook .
Message sent. Hopefully he's still doing it.
 
My leaky S90 is all packed up and will be shipped to Nick (@MindBlowin03 ) tomorrow. I also had a moment of weakness and ordered some new goodies for the Talon...I'll just say they are from Forced Performance. I'll show you all when they arrive.

P.S. Damn, that is one fiiiiiine 2g Talon Nick!
 
P.S. Damn, that is one fiiiiiine 2g Talon Nick!


Yes, yes it is. Research his old Cyclone/HX40 setup too, and find his dyno numbers before and after. It's ridiculous. His ride has been clean for like 35.4 billion years. Lol.
 
My leaky S90 is all packed up and will be shipped to Nick (@MindBlowin03 ) tomorrow. I also had a moment of weakness and ordered some new goodies for the Talon...I'll just say they are from Forced Performance. I'll show you all when they arrive.

P.S. Damn, that is one fiiiiiine 2g Talon Nick!
Thank you. It does the job and gives the DSM guys the respect they deserve. Very clean, very fast and usually runs LOL.
Yes, yes it is. Research his old Cyclone/HX40 setup too, and find his dyno numbers before and after. It's ridiculous. His ride has been clean for like 35.4 billion years. Lol.
Although it's been off the car for a few years now, I still have a soft spot for that setup. Such a drivable setup for what it was. It may return one day, who knows. And thank you for the compliment on the car.
 
Lots of stuff happening these last few weeks, but not a ton of progress. First thing's first, is I received my TB back from Nick a couple weeks ago. Super fast turnaround time. Got it all put back together, FIAV blocked off, ISC reconnected and reinstalled back on the IM.
rebuilts90.jpg
s90puttogether.jpg
rebuilts90installed.jpg


I also received some goodies from Forced Performance this week, but first I had to get the "old" stuff off.
Removing the ported Evo exhaust manifold I installed about 20yrs ago.
exhaustmanioff.jpg
removingturbo.jpg

Next up was removing the Evo16G and O2 housing. Now I have all kinds of room for the new stuff.
16goff.jpg
o2off.jpg
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The 20yr old ARP hardware I installed all this stuff with using copper anti-seize came off super smoothly. I'll be reusing some of it.
harwareforturbo.jpg


I'm replacing the old stainless studs with new titanium studs that are allen-keyed for easier install/removal. Got some cool gold ones, even though I won't see them. For the old one, I did the 'ol double-nut method of removal and of course, cleaned the threads.
doublenut.jpg
cleanthreadshead.jpg
titaniumexhauststuds.jpg
studsinstalledexhaustmani.jpg


I received my new FP Green UHF with coated turbine housing and FP exhaust manifold, also coated. I had to order two new ARP fasteners that are 30mm for the front of the manifold. I'm re-using two of the turbo to manifold bolts in this case. I also ordered a new heatshield specifically for the FP manifold. Might not need it with the coating, but I want to keep the temps where they belong. Plus , I can always remove it easily later since it's only one bolt holding it on.
fpgreenexhaustmani.jpg
fpmanifoldinstalled.jpg
fpheatshield.jpg


I am going back and forth on this, but for now I have new braided water lines hooked up to the new turbo. I may ditch the water lines altogether and am leaning more toward that way now, so I'm sure this will change. I also installed my oil drain line to the Green as well as FP's oil feed line. This turbo will be fed from the oil filter housing.
dainlineinstallednewturbo.jpg
waterlinesinstallednewturbo.jpg


I had a few "while I'm in there" moments and have a few more things coming in the coming few weeks so I wasn't able to get everything bolted back in., but I did a quick test-fit to see how/what I need to do to make it all fit great. All new metal gaskets between all these pieces as well.
fitmenttestturbo.jpg
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Feeding from the filter housing? Why’s that?
That's what FP recommends for this turbo.

"This turbo requires that oil be fed off the filter housing which can be accomplished by purchasing our 1G Oil Supply Line. For all of our journal bearing turbos we recommend a high quality oil, see below for our oiling information sheet."
 
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