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1Gb Talon Rust Revival

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MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX or Scott Grey’s 94 (way back in the day, trying to remember) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.
 
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That's what FP recommends for this turbo.

"This turbo requires that oil be fed off the filter housing which can be accomplished by purchasing our 1G Oil Supply Line. For all of our journal bearing turbos we recommend a high quality oil, see below for our oiling information sheet."
100%. That's what Justin Whitesell recommends as well. Clean, cool(er), filtered oil at the pressure source. Every turbo may have different restrictor needs.
 
MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX (way back in the day) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.
Was that a Sport Compact Car magazine USCC event? If so, do you recall which year? I'm just curious as I have been looking to build my collection of those magazines.
 
MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX (way back in the day) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.
Couldn't have said it better myself. In this case, higher pressure is what's needed and you are absolutely right about BB turbos...those are typically supplied from the head due to the seals being overrun.
 
Still waiting for some parts from Raven Fab and Boosted Fab, but hopefully will arrive soon, but I decided against running water to my turbo. I'd rather be rid of the lines and I also didn't like how one of the water lines was touching the exhaust manifold. Even with it being braided stainless, it's still just a rubber hose underneath that will get brittle due to all that heat.
I blocked off the water ports on the turbo. M14x1.5 stainless plugs with copper crush washers.
turbowaterblockoff.jpg

Although I am removing the water lines, I want to give myself the option to have water lines in the future. I wanted to do it cleanly as well, so I didn't want to use a piece of tubing with a bolt in the end, or pinch the nipple and weld it or anything. So, I removed the nipple altogether and tapped it for future use.
The nipple I removed is the one on the top here:
thermhousingnippleremoval1.jpg

Took a bit, but I got it removed. I used MAP gas and a pliers. Heat the housing up thoroughly so it expands around the nipple and do some twisting and pulling. Took me maybe about 4-5 heat/reheat sessions to get it out.
thermhousingnippleremoval.jpg


I then tapped it for a 1/8npt plug, but for some reason a 1/8npt plug is too small. No idea how that's possible, so now I will drill it out and re-tap for a 1/4npt plug/fitting. I don't have one yet, so I'll have to pick one up.
While I had it out I cleaned it up really well with a brass wire wheel. Not sure yet on if I'll paint it. Might have to do black to match the water neck.
cleanthermhousing.jpg

Also figured I'd heat wrap my O2 housing. Since the turbo and exhaust manifold are coated, I may as well try to eliminate as much heat from getting to the alternator as possible. I know this is a bit controversial, but it's not like this is my daily and if it wrecks my cheap-o O2 housing I'm ok with it.
o2housingwrpped.jpg


I also got a small plug for the oil port on the head that I won't be using anymore.
oilportplug.jpg
 
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