1Gb Talon Rust Revival

[Justin DuBois]

MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX or Scott Grey’s 94 (way back in the day, trying to remember) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.

 

[92Turbski]

That's what FP recommends for this turbo.

"This turbo requires that oil be fed off the filter housing which can be accomplished by purchasing our 1G Oil Supply Line. For all of our journal bearing turbos we recommend a high quality oil, see below for our oiling information sheet."

100%. That's what Justin Whitesell recommends as well. Clean, cool(er), filtered oil at the pressure source. Every turbo may have different restrictor needs.

 

[LaserRS92]

MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX (way back in the day) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.

Was that a Sport Compact Car magazine USCC event? If so, do you recall which year? I'm just curious as I have been looking to build my collection of those magazines.

 

[Justin DuBois]

That or possibly Motor Trend.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/0501-sccp-2004-ultimate-street-car-challenge/

In 2004 - Scott Grey's Black 94 GSX was in - and I might be remembering a thrash we had to keep it going

 

[Silverspyder]

MHI - TDO5H cartridge journal bearing turbo's have an internal aperture in the oil channels to regulate the pressure to the bearings - and feeding from the OFH will ensure the maximum flow/pressure to the turbo. The oil feed from the head is "lower" pressure as the supply is also addressing lifter and cam journal feeds, but feeding from the head can be good enough.

Maximum pressure is not always what you want. Non-journal bearing cartridges from other turbo manufactures (like ball bearing turbos) can be overrun with pressure from the OFH and push past the seals.

It is best to do what the turbo manufacturer says.

Note: ROYZGSX (way back in the day) burned up two 20G turbo during an event called "ultimate street car challenge" due to lack of oil from the OFH because an inline filter on the feed got clogged. This was not discovered until AFTER the 2nd turbo was killed in the heat of competition. This is one of the reasons I never run an inline filter, and always check for oil flow priming the pump when installing components.

Couldn't have said it better myself. In this case, higher pressure is what's needed and you are absolutely right about BB turbos...those are typically supplied from the head due to the seals being overrun.

 

[Silverspyder]

Still waiting for some parts from Raven Fab and Boosted Fab, but hopefully will arrive soon, but I decided against running water to my turbo. I'd rather be rid of the lines and I also didn't like how one of the water lines was touching the exhaust manifold. Even with it being braided stainless, it's still just a rubber hose underneath that will get brittle due to all that heat.
I blocked off the water ports on the turbo. M14x1.5 stainless plugs with copper crush washers.

Although I am removing the water lines, I want to give myself the option to have water lines in the future. I wanted to do it cleanly as well, so I didn't want to use a piece of tubing with a bolt in the end, or pinch the nipple and weld it or anything. So, I removed the nipple altogether and tapped it for future use.
The nipple I removed is the one on the top here:

Took a bit, but I got it removed. I used MAP gas and a pliers. Heat the housing up thoroughly so it expands around the nipple and do some twisting and pulling. Took me maybe about 4-5 heat/reheat sessions to get it out.

I then tapped it for a 1/8npt plug, but for some reason a 1/8npt plug is too small. No idea how that's possible, so now I will drill it out and re-tap for a 1/4npt plug/fitting. I don't have one yet, so I'll have to pick one up.
While I had it out I cleaned it up really well with a brass wire wheel. Not sure yet on if I'll paint it. Might have to do black to match the water neck.

Also figured I'd heat wrap my O2 housing. Since the turbo and exhaust manifold are coated, I may as well try to eliminate as much heat from getting to the alternator as possible. I know this is a bit controversial, but it's not like this is my daily and if it wrecks my cheap-o O2 housing I'm ok with it.

I also got a small plug for the oil port on the head that I won't be using anymore.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks good paint is good powder coat is my goal for the winter I also used glass beading too .

 

[Silverspyder]

Still waiting on some parts to get fabricated. Until then, I decided to take care of my thermostat housing. Make it look pretty. First thing though was to drill/retap tht port from above. tapped it to 1/4 npt. and made sure a plug fit this time. Perfect.

Decided I could make this thing look better, so I media blasted it to get ALL the crud off and give me a bare surface for paint.

self-etching primer, then black with a coat of clear.

All buttoned back up with plugs and sensors reinstalled. I always use a high-temp thread sealer on these fittings for no leaks. I have all new gaskets on the way from Josh at JNZ as well.

 

[Justin DuBois]

No cooling lines to the turbo? Explain please.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Looks really amazing

 

[Silverspyder]

No cooling lines to the turbo? Explain please.

Not super necessary. I do not plan to run it hard, then shut it off immediately. As long as you cool the oil before shutdown, it's fine. I also have a very large drain line coming from it. No water also eliminates some plumbing from the turbo. If I had a BB turbo, I'd def run water to it. I am also setting my system up so I can run water lines later if I want very easily...which I very well might do one day.

Here's a merged thread on the topic: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/w...out-water-merged-9-8-coolant-lines-oil.48281/

 

[Justin DuBois]

Not super necessary. I do not plan to run it hard, then shut it off immediately. As long as you cool the oil before shutdown, it's fine. I also have a very large drain line coming from it. No water also eliminates some plumbing from the turbo. If I had a BB turbo, I'd def run water to it. I am also setting my system up so I can run water lines later if I want very easily...which I very well might do one day.

Here's a merged thread on the topic: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/w...out-water-merged-9-8-coolant-lines-oil.48281/

This is the first I've ever heard on the subject - but run a cast iron cartridge without water cooling sounds bonker balls to me. That's a LOT of heat soak to hope oil will do the job, when the heat is the killer of oil and to be avoided at all cost.

-edit
The same oil that is going to the pan? That oil - baking in a turbo - now going to my crank, pistons, oil pump - that oil?

Sorry for that - no, not doing that.

-edit
That water neck referb looks really good

 

[Silverspyder]

This is the first I've ever heard on the subject - but run a cast iron cartridge without water cooling sounds bonker balls to me. That's a LOT of heat soak to hope oil will do the job, when the heat is the killer of oil and to be avoided at all cost.

-edit
The same oil that is going to the pan? That oil - baking in a turbo - now going to my crank, pistons, oil pump - that oil?

Sorry for that - no, not doing that.

-edit
That water neck reverb looks really good

I hear ya. I def see both sides, but there are a TON of turbos out there that don't even have water accommodation and they are doing great years later too. Also, keep in mind the older green turbos didn't even have water ports, then you could choose to have them, now they just do both so you have the option.

 

[Justin DuBois]

I hear ya. I def see both sides, but there are a TON of turbos out there that don't even have water accommodation and they are doing great years later too. Also, keep in mind the older green turbos didn't even have water ports, then you could choose to have them, now they just do both so you have the option.

I'm open to the possibility that there are oil only success stories. I choose to lean into the positive power of thermal dynamics and take as much unfair advantage as I can get.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I'm open to the possibility that there are oil only success stories. I choose to lean into the positive power of thermal dynamics and take as much unfair advantage as I can get.

I haven’t ran water to the turbo in over a decade. I also don’t beat the snot out of it and then proceed to shut it off directly. I also monitor my oil temp.

Many vehicles come factory turbocharged without water lines. If you read through the thread posted above you will come across where Justin has a post where he says they are not required

-Daniel

 

[Silverspyder]

doing a few "while I'm in there" projects while I wait for my new water pipe.

I have never been a fan of these brake lines I did way back when. They were just too long, so I decided to take care of it and make it cleaner. I had to loop them over, then under the brake booster and I think it just looked sloppy, so I ordered some new (shorter 15" and 12") black, coated brake lines.

I routed them so it's basically a straight shot now, with a little slack. MUCH cleaner

Next up was taking care of the old, rusty motor mounts. First up was taking care of the bracket for the trans. It was a bit rusty and looked gross under the hood, so I blasted and painted black, just the same as the thermostat housing.

The rest of the mounts, minus the cam side I purchased new from Kurtis at Boosted Fab.

Not a difficult project, but makes a lot of difference aesthetically. First up was the trans mount and bracket. Using new bolts of course and chasing the threads on the trans. So much crap came out of these threads.

Then the front.

And finally, the rear. Which wasn't as tough to get to as I thought.

I'd sure like to change out my driver's side mount, but I def want to keep my power steering. Does any one make a mount that accommodates this? If not, I'll just remove it and repaint it.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Wherer did you find those brake lines mines are too long like you said.

 

[Silverspyder]

Wherer did you find those brake lines mines are too long like you said.

got 'em from Bryke Racing.

 

[Silverspyder]

Got the final piece of the puzzle I've been waiting 6 weeks for...but before we get to that, while I was in there I wanted to remove the driver's side motor mount and repaint it as it was looking a little rough.

I degreased it, then used Eastwoods rust encapsulator to protect it. This is essentially a POR15 in a spray can and I gotta say, I like it. Goes on smooth and dries fairly quickly. I also cleaned up and painted the bracket that holds the mount, since this is something that is rarely accessible.

Got that reinstalled, then it was time to install my new stainless steel water pipe from Raven Fabs. I elected to use the OEM heater configuration and to make the turbo water line a 6-an fitting, which I then capped off in case I want to use it in the future/with a different turbo. New o-ring on the pump end and install is simple.

This water pipe configuration also eliminated the water-oil cooler from the OFH. since these fittings are not an option with this pipe, I had some more work to do with the thermostat housing. I drilled out and tapped those nipples to a 1/4npt like I did with the turbo water line above. I removed the water lines from the OFH and capped them with rubber caps (optional), but I don't want a bunch of crud getting in there. I also don't mind eliminating potential leak points.

After that was all done, it was time for install. This thing is sexy af.

that allowed me to finally get the business end all buttoned up.

Next week I'll be removing my OFH to remove the stock plugs to get the oil feed installed. They are a tiny bit stripped and I want to replace the OFH gasket, so it'll be a good time to do that and remove the plugs at the same time.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Love seeing the steady progress with this car. You’re doing great work. Keep it up!

 

[Silverspyder]

Started working on the OFH. I needed to remove it because I had an NPT plug that was starting to strip out on me, of course it was the port I need for the turbo oil feed line. It was easier to remove the housing to work on it, plus I wanted to replace the gasket. Easier said than done, I could NOT get to the last bolt under the timing cover. i know some of you guys have said to remove the bottom bolts and the cover will be able to be bent back enough....just not the case for me, so I decided to remove it completely and do a bunch of "while I was in there", stuff.

I removed the pulleys to get access, and noticed they are rusting a little on the backside. Decided to spray rust encapsulator and a coat of gloss black like factory. Did the same for the OFH.

The timing cover needed some love too. I cleaned it up (it was gross of course) and needed to fix the rubber gasket on the back. It kept popping off, so I glued the damn thing in place.

The oil port i needed proved to be more difficult to deal with than expected. It would not budge with an impact (stripped it), an air chisel and an easy-out. Decided I'd better drill it out. Started with a smaller bit and worked my way up. Before I got to the size of the port, it started to move, so I used a small chisel and hammer to get it to spin out. I then re-threaded it.

I took the OFH apart in order to paint it, so I re-torqued the large bolt holding the oil-cooler to the housing. 31 ft/lbs is what the manual calls for.

Here's where the different length bolts go in case anyone needs to know. New gasket for the housing too.

Reinstalled. Pretty easy without the lower timing cover in the way.

After that I figured I'd get the DP all bolted back up. I hate dealing with this damn thing. One side is so easy, but the back side requires a different size (smaller bolt) and it almost impossible to get to. Anyway, I hate trying to get a gasket in there, so this time I wanted to try using a copper gasket material. There's a mechanic I watch on youtube ocassionally who swears by this stuff. He says he never uses a traditional gasket...just this stuff.

Next up, I wanted to better take care of some of the wiring on/near the OFH. They were just covered with deteriorating electrical tape so I wanted to clean them up and protect them with heat shrink. Did the power steering pump sensor wire too.

Started to hookup my oil feed line I got from FP, but I'm not thrilled with the connections they provided. It's a 90degree fitting, but when you clock it to the best direction to receive the line from the turbo, there's not room to turn the connection. Pretty disappointing.

The picture makes it look like there's room, but there's not. Also, the line it bent at an extreme angle. I have a straight fitting and a 45 deg fitting on the way, so I'll use whichever is best, but it looks like a straight will be the best.

I also bought JNZ's oil sender relocation kit. I have been reading on here that it's best to do this to preserve the sending unit and to prevent damage to the OFH.

Also received my new race bumper from JM Fab today. Don't really need it, but thought the weight savings would be pretty nice. Saves about 30lbs over stock. Fits well too.

 

[92AWDHX40]

This build inspired me to re do some stuff after the shootout.

 

[Silverspyder]

This build inspired me to re do some stuff after the shootout.

Yeah? Cool. Like what?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yeah? Cool. Like what?

The. Small things and rust repair

 

[Silverspyder]

Didn't have a ton of time this weekend, but wanted to get the oil pressure remote line all situated and get the new fitting squared away for the turbo feed.

I went with a 45deg fitting for the feed and it worked great. The line isn't kinked and it's well away from the hot parts.

Now the OFH is all done.