2G 1g TB on 2G high Idle

[Bedicine]

Hello,

Just recently switched from a S90 TB on my 2G as it was constantly whistling and had a leak. I picked up a 1g NT TB, replaced the seals in it (metal inserts), new BISS screw, bypass plate, new TPS and capped the 4 lines on the top. Did the adjustment as per the guide with the feeler gauge and such but when i started the car it is idling at 2k then climbs up to 3k. I screwed the BISS in all the way and that didnt help, loosened the TB stop and it made no change. Also when stepping on the gas then letting off the car drops idle quicks then picks it back up.

Wondering if this is because i capped the 4 lines on top of the TB instead of looping them or if its something else. Did a quick log i can upload but screenshot below. Appreciate any help.

Thank you

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[DSMPT]

but had done 2 before the TB changes o i know the piping and everything else isnt leaking

You can't count on the test result before replacing the throttle body. You have to do it after replacing it. Especially where you have to check is around the throttle body, because that's where you made a change.

When you're refering to the alternator is that the battery section on the log? I'm running a motor cycle AGM battery, voltage was low when i started it as the car has been sitting for 2 weeks and hasnt been on charge.

Doesn't matter what battery you have, at least you had it charged enough to crank the engine. Once the engine is running, you should see the proper voltage in the log if everything is as it should be.

 

[steve]

In that log the alternator finally kicked in about 35 seconds in, almost at the end. I'll have to look and see if we can log the 2G ECU alternator control pin to see if that was why.

Is there a thermostat in the car, it didn't really warm up?

The Coolant temp needs to be at least 87F for much to happen. The ISC only started moving, again, at the very end about when the Alternator started working. You have the ECU locked into open loop, I assume for working on your VE but that's going to impact the idling behavour.

 

[Bedicine]

Yeah I didn’t let the car warm up, just wanted to see if it would idle. The cars in the garage and the little guy was sleeping so didn’t want to wake him. Tonight trying to get time to work on the car between naps.

To be honest I’m not sure what that means about the tune being locked. I didn’t tune the car I had it sent out but we had issues with the car not being able to build boost past 15 psi and had a strong whistling noise. Ended up having the car tuned just so it was somewhat driveable while we troubleshoot the issues. We think it was a combination of a leaky throttle body and the converter in the car causing to much back pressure. The car does have to go back to get t in Ed but most likely that won’t be until the spring now as it’s already started snowing here and there where I am.

 

[Bedicine]

You can't count on the test result before replacing the throttle body. You have to do it after replacing it. Especially where you have to check is around the throttle body, because that's where you made a change.

Doesn't matter what battery you have, at least you had it charged enough to crank the engine. Once the engine is running, you should see the proper voltage in the log if everything is as it should be.

I have a new boost tester coming next week as my old one wasn’t staying in the greatest. I have an oil catch can and the crankcase pulls vacuum off of the intake. Should I block this port when I do the test also and just remove the oil cap?

 

[DSMPT]

I am wondering if the car was running good before with the S90 throttle body?

I have a new boost tester coming next week as my old one wasn’t staying in the greatest.

Especially check for leak between the throttle body and the cylinder head. The leak between the throttle body and the cylinder head is one of the common causes of high idle.

crankcase pulls vacuum off of the intake.

I assume you are talking about PCV valve. But I am not sure about your setup. Can you upload a pic of under hood to show us how exactly it is?
As for how to run a boost leak test, you can find many posts here or some videos in google. You can refer those, too.

 

[chrisman287]

Should I block this port when I do the test also and just remove the oil cap?

Do the boost leak test as is.

 

[steve]

To be honest I’m not sure what that means about the tune being locked.

The ECU normally operates in two modes, Closed Loop and Open Loop. That refers to if the ECU is using the feedback from the front O2 sensor to adjust the fuel or not. You have an option in DSMLink to force the ECU to always be in Open Loop and that's usually used to adjust the maps and then turned off for normal driving. In Closed Loop the ECU targets 14.7:1 AFR while in Open Loop it uses the AFR in the fuel Maps.

 

[chrisman287]

You have an option in DSMLink to force the ECU to always be in Open Loop and that's usually used to adjust the maps and then turned off for normal driving.

Damn, where is that option? I wonder if mine is locked in open loop because if that.

 

[steve]

Damn, where is that option? I wonder if mine is locked in open loop because if that.

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[Bedicine]

Reviving this thread. Went back to the S90 TB. i sent it out for Nick R to rebuild (great guy), reinstalled it last night and did a leak test. I had a leak around where the throttle body meets the Intake manifold even with a new gasket and a leak out of the bypass plate. Took everything apart and used gasket maker on the bypass plate and ditched the paper gasket at the manifold for the gasket maker as well. Waited over night and leak tested this morning. No more leaks, i start the car up and its idling high but eventually comes down to 900rpm roughly at idle.

- Initial warm up throttle position shows 1%, when car is key on it shows this at zero, i did the TPS adjust. When it fully warmed up throttle showed at 0 which was good
- When stepping on the gas the car sometimes hesitates, not nearly as bad as before
- Car idle isn't great, its better when warmed up but after releasing the gas it will sometimes die

Any suggestions? I'll attach the log in a second, appreciate everyones help so far

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[Bedicine]

Log from this morning when it was idling.

I took it for a drive later in the day and it definitely feels like it’s hesitating and I’m not making any boost on my gauge. This could be another issue as I just put the gauge in with the methanol kit

 

[Bedicine]

just noticed in my log that ISC when the car was warmed up at idle is showing 120, i didnt asjust the BISS on the S90 since i got it back, could that be causing all of the issues?

Also what are the odds its the electronic boost gauge thats hooked up to ECMlink, is there a way to see on the logs if its not functioning properly?

Also had a bunch of loose bolts on my exhaust manifold. These must have come loose, tightened them back up but haven’t tested the car since. Tomorrow hopefully

 

[DSMPT]

What cam set do you have? Something is not right. The engine seems to respond very slow against the throttle movement and too rich. Put your tuning issue aside, I think someone who is more familiar to ECMLink would chime in.
You have only 6-7 in/hg vacuum at idle. Since you mentioned you have no more leak, if that's true, then I would check for the valve timing first unless you have a super agressive cam set.

 

[Bedicine]

What cam set do you have? Something is not right. The engine seems to respond very slow against the throttle movement and too rich. Put your tuning issue aside, I think someone who is more familiar to ECMLink would chime in.
You have only 6-7 in/hg vacuum at idle. Since you mentioned you have no more leak, if that's true, then I would check for the valve timing first unless you have a super agressive cam set.

I have BC 268/272 cams with the BC
springs and titanium retainers.

I did have a leak at the exhaust manifold I fixed tonight. I’ll try and get new logs tomorrow including one being driven. I’m going to adjust the isc tomorrow but could my boost controller be hooked up wrong/not functioning for the low vacuum?

 

[DSMPT]

I have BC 268/272 cams with the BC
springs and titanium retainers.

I did have a leak at the exhaust manifold I fixed tonight. I’ll try and get new logs tomorrow including one being driven. I’m going to adjust the isc tomorrow but could my boost controller be hooked up wrong/not functioning for the low vacuum?

Those are very mild cams. Just make sure about the valve timing, if all timing marks are set properly.

 

[Bedicine]

Just make sure about the valve timing, if all timing marks are set properly.

Yes, timing marks were all set properly. I’m hoping the exhaust manifold does the trick.

With the vacuum showing low could that be the boost controller?

 

[DSMPT]

Yes, timing marks were all set properly.

Then should look for vacuum leak once again just for in case. You can upload a pic of timing if you like. Just set the crank/piston 1/4 at TDC and take a pic of cam gear timing marks from center/straight.

I’m hoping the exhaust manifold does the trick.

With the vacuum showing low could that be the boost controller?

No and no.

 

[Bedicine]

Pics attached from when the motor got dropped in.

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[DSMPT]

Pics attached from when the motor got dropped in.

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We can see the cams are in phase for sure, but we can't be sure if you have the right valve timing by seeing those pics. The best is you upload a recent pic by setting it at TDC. Looks like it is probably fine though.
Just make sure no leak on intake manifold before starting to mess with tuning.

 

[Bedicine]

We can see the cams are in phase for sure, but we can't be sure if you have the right valve timing by seeing those pics. The best is you upload a recent pic by setting it at TDC. Looks like it is probably fine though.
Just make sure no leak on intake manifold before starting to mess with tuning.

Will grab some photos tomorrow. Should I be checking timing with the light also? I have a timing light but haven’t used it before

 

[DSMPT]

Will grab some photos tomorrow. Should I be checking timing with the light also? I have a timing light but haven’t used it before

You can check ignition timing (not valve timing) by a timing light but I assume that your car is 2g with 2g sensors. So you have nothing to do with it mechanically.

And just FYI, you should keep in mind that the Fluidampr timing mark notch could possibility be off by a few degrees from TDC.

 

[Bedicine]

You can check ignition timing (not valve timing) by a timing light but I assume that your car is 2g with 2g sensors. So you have nothing to do with it mechanically.

And just FYI, you should keep in mind that the Fluidampr timing mark notch could possibility be off by a few degrees from TDC.

Yeah 2g, but I think there is an adjustment in ecmlink if it shows a different timing but would need to look into that

 

[DSMPT]

Yeah 2g, but I think there is an adjustment in ecmlink if it shows a different timing but would need to look into that

Yeah right. What I just wanted to say is make sure that your car has no mechanical/physical issues before starting mess with the software. That will make the job much easier for your tuner or you who actually tunes the car.

 

[Bedicine]

I think the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. Got the car to idle tonight and took it for a drive. It builds boost very slow and the cockpit stinks of exhaust, so much that the wife made me change when I came inside the house. Got a log from a drive tonight, hopefully someone can chime in on it. Will post it shortly

Also showing the following cel but it’s a new sensor?

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[Bedicine]

log attached, idle is at the end