Haltech 1g reed switch settings S2 haltech

[Tyeler18]

I know this is somewhat out of ordinary, but I have done a couple of 1g's/my Galant on S2 Haltechs and cannot for the life of me get the speed reading correct. I'm using the reed switch output from the factory cluster and I'll occasionally get accurate speed but the majority of the time it's reading in the 1000-6000 mph and jumping all over.

The first one I did we assumed it was just a wonky reading from the factory cluster since the car started as a bit of a basket case. Now I've got my Galant swapped which worked perfectly normal with the Evo 8 ECU the S2 replaced it with, so I'm assuming this is a setup issue with the Haltech. Most people just switch to the 2g speed sensor but I'm keeping the stock cluster in these cars and would like to have this working without having to pull an ABS sensor reading if I can.

Anyone have what settings their using with a function 1g reed switch?

 

[DSMPT]

This issue has been common with AEM or other standalone ECU. If you would like to keep the factory cable driven speedometer, the simplest solution would be to use a Japanese gearbox probe. It would allow you to still use the factory cable driven speedometer and ECU would receive much more clear pulses.

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[Tyeler18]

This issue has been common with AEM or other standalone ECU. If you would like to keep the factory cable driven speedometer, the simplest solution would be to use a Japanese gearbox probe. It would allow you to still use the factory cable driven speedometer and ECU would receive much more clear pulses.

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While I don’t mind adding this, I don’t think this is a mechanical issue. It seems to be a hardware issue. The Evo ECU had no problem maintaining a consistent speed while logging. The Haltech is reading in the 1000s for MPH though

 

[DSMPT]

While I don’t mind adding this, I don’t think this is a mechanical issue. It seems to be a hardware issue. The Evo ECU had no problem maintaining a consistent speed while logging. The Haltech is reading in the 1000s for MPH though

Many times the reed switch doesn't really work well with some standalone ECU or some device that reads VSS signal, doesn't matter if it works with Mitsubishi ECU or not. And not only AEM. I have tried mine and tried to help a couple of guys. There seems to be some bad combination exist. It didn't happen on AEM v1 at all but happens very often on AEM v2 (not always). It didn't happen on v2 with AEM's test 1g Laser that technically has the same reed switch.
So from my experience, if this happens, and then if you always want to have stable VSS signal and want to still keep the factory cable driven speedometer, this is the safest and easiest option.
I myself have one on my 1g for over a decade. It seems still working well.

 

[Trebi2]

Hmm, that sounds like the OEM Sensor gives off a lot of noise. It should be possible to compensate this, whether that's possible in the ECU I'm not too sure.

I got a S3 in my Colt. In the GVR4 and 1G I only got ECMLink but I should be able to hack something together to test this out.
If worse comes to worst it should be possible to clean up the signal with a small interpreter. Could be done with a Arduino Nano/ESP32 or just plain little IC and a few other parts.

I'll see if I get to it this weekends and whether I'm able to reproduce this problem.

 

[Tyeler18]

Hmm, that sounds like the OEM Sensor gives off a lot of noise. It should be possible to compensate this, whether that's possible in the ECU I'm not too sure.

I got a S3 in my Colt. In the GVR4 and 1G I only got ECMLink but I should be able to hack something together to test this out.
If worse comes to worst it should be possible to clean up the signal with a small interpreter. Could be done with a Arduino Nano/ESP32 or just plain little IC and a few other parts.

I'll see if I get to it this weekends and whether I'm able to reproduce this problem.

There is a filter built into the speed input which I have played with to an extent, but I don't know how much is too much and I also don't necessarily think this is a filtering issue since the reading is so ridiculously high. A reed switch should be switching slower than a hall effect sensor so I could see some jumpy/noisy signal but not just consistently crazy high with small burst of accurate signal every so often.