Haltech TPS Volts .10, S90 TB, Help With Settings In Haltech

[Car Cannibal]

1G, S90 74mm TB, factory TPS sensor, NO IAC.

TPS shows .10v in Haltech, it can calibrate the pedal etc. Car will run but the idle was a mess so first....

What's the volts supposed to be, .10v normal?

Factory is like .48 etc odor and like 5V WOT.

Haltech is showing .10v idle and like 1.9v WOT.
The scaling is different so it looks like I'm close.

Is there a way to scale it in Haltech to 5v?
I can try this before tuner comes back.

Issue...
When I move the TPS, I can get down to like .007v so it's showing a range. I left it back at .10v.

The S90 TB is very sensitive to blade screw adjustments, idle was like 675rpm, then flew to 2500rpm after maybe a 1/2 turn or more.



Need some help here, appreciate it as I've had a frustrating year with the Talon since a huge issue with a big name IL DSM shop tuner smoked my turbo and head gasket on the dyno and handed me the keys. I've got maybe 20 miles since Sept 2023 on the car, unreal.

Remote Haltech tuner guy is cool and popped in today, Fathers Day, for 45 minutes to help me get things cleaned up but it's been a rough go after OHM harness and initial tuner being a newb.

I want to make sure I have TPS Haltech volt info and can get the car driving in the 2nd session later in a June.

Thanks

 

[steve]

This all depends on what TPS you're using, how you wired it up and the range of motion the S90 has.
Are you giving the TPS 5+ and ground?
What does the output do when you turn the TPS off the TB?
Does the S90 turn the same amount or if the TPS range limited by the S90?

 

[Car Cannibal]

Thanks for the reply Steve

TPS is factory, might still be factory actually, worked on this same S90 with stock computer V3 at 10% TPS on Scanmaster right before I switched to Haltech.

TPS volts will move when you angle TPS up or down when you loosen screws, the Haltech was able to calibrate 100% full throttle when I floored it. It's just showing the scale right now as...

.10v idle to 1.91v WOT
That's like 89% off
.48 and 5V factory numbers

I don't know if OHM harness would change TPS volts from 5v etc. I'd assume it would NOT but I would have to check TPS harness plug.

Which TPS pins would I probe?
Thanks

 

[steve]

When you changed ECUs everything changed.

The Factory ECU supplies the +5v for sensors on pin 23 and reads the output voltage from the TPS on pin 19. The sensor ground from ECU pins 24 and 17.

The TPS gets +5 on its pin 1, ground on pin 4, and provides the output voltage on pin 2. Pin 3 is NA on 1G style TPS and is the IPS on 2G style ones.

So first is make sure you have +5v between pin 1 and pin 4.

BTW all of this is in the FSM electrical book 2. Here's the ECMTuning PDFs recapping the same.

Remember that the manuals show the pin numbering looking into the connector so the TPS pins are like this with the Red being pin 1, Black pin 4, and White pin 2. When you look at an installed TPS pin 4 is on top.

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[Car Cannibal]

Thanks Steve, really helping me here.

OHM harness is seeing 5.07v at pin 1, green wire.

Yet Haltech is only seeing .10v at idle and 1.9v at WOT and the odd thing too is at WOT the volts go 100% down to like 78%, they don't stay steady.

I might have 2 issues, 1 being maybe the TB cable is not staying firm and then this volt thing.

Thanks
Mike

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[Car Cannibal]

I'm seeing on connector...

5v at green wire pin 1 (power)
.15 ohms at brown wire pin 2 (output)
.06 ohms at black wire pin 4 (ground)

Still not 5v in Haltech after a new sensor swap too. I thought maybe the output of the sensor was the issue.

I can't drive the car yet, auto trans tuning isn't possible without a solid TPS. Really been horrible year for all my cars, haven't driven over 200k invested in just mods between the 3 for a full year almost due to other people mistakes, really challenging my every breath to keep at this hobby.

 

[steve]

I fail to understand why you are switching from measuring volts to measuring ohms.

At the connector that leads back to the ECU with it disconnected from the TPS and the ECU on you should see +5v on pin 1, 0v on pin 2, 0v on pin 4. Pin 4 should also have 0 ohms (0.06 is close enough) to your sensor ground point. With the ECU on and the TPS attached you should still see +5v on pin 1, some voltage between 0 and 5v on pin 2, and 0v still on pin 4.

All voltage measurements should be relative to chassis ground. (black lead grounded)
All resistance measurements require stating which two points your measuring.

If pin 2 gave you 0.15 ohms to chassis ground, you have a problem.

You should have a metal lock clip on the connector for the TPS to keep it from getting loose. I see it on your picture but double checking cause that might not be your connector.

 

[Car Cannibal]

I left out that bolt info because it was..
Pin 2 signal = 0v
Pin 4 ground .01v

I saw more ohms so figured that might give me info, my bad.

I found something minor..

Key on .10v and 2v WOT
Car running is pretty much 0v with minor flickers but mainly 0v. Even throttle blips are like .00 to .03v, lower than idle setting key on.

I'm gonna need for someone to get in the harness and test for 5v on Pin 9 in Haltech and then look for anything on the power, signal and grind wires of TPS, it's like something is altering the running aspect of this TPS.

Thanks

 

[Car Cannibal]

Issue found, I got lucky and a shop I use got a new wiring guru who knows his way around Teslas, there was another wire coming off the TPS harness at the connector side and causing all this garbage. I don't the exact details but it works now and he showed me the wire he cut off.

.048v idle and 5v WOT now, pedal change % show when cars running.

There's way more left to do but this guys gonna get me back to 100% on issues aside from this new harness and other wiring issues people have created to the factory items over the 23 years.