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Resolved 1G ECU testing

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Infamous33

10+ Year Contributor
100
4
May 30, 2011
Chicopee, Massachusetts
I am looking for information on testing the diodes, resistors, ect on my ECU. My car sat for about 4 years, when I went to get it back into shape to put back on the road, it wouldn't start.

I pulled the ECU and found the caps had leaked. I had friend that builds computer boards for a living change out the caps, put it back in and, nuttin.

The CEL still doesn't light and no start. He did a little testing and found a few circuits that were bad, but his limited knowledge on ECU's didn't help him to find all the issues.

I now have a donor ECU and some time on my hands. I am trying to revive this board because it is an EPROM out of a 1990. Does anyone have information or links for testing all the components that could fail due to the electrolyte?

I was thinking everything could be base tested from the pins and then move on to testing the components from there.

Thanks for all the help, if you have any to offer. I will try to get some pics of the board up within about an hour.

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Solution
Update....

So I ended up sending it to ECMTuning. $110 later it is functional and even socketed.

It'll be a few months before I get to test it for myself, since I pulled the manifolds and the head the day I sent it out.

Mild build to come, still making decisions on how far I will go with it. Thanks for all the advice guys!! I might to a build blog once I start ordering parts.
Yes, get it fixed and socketed by ECMTuning. They do great work and it's not even all that expensive. Mine was $140 to fix and socket.
 
I'd recommend ECMtuning 120%. They are great, quick, cheap, and professional. I emailed them at 2am and got a response in a hour. Tom was polite, knowledgeable, and quick. They kept me updated of every step from receiving ECU in mail, starting work, cleaning, diagnostic, ok to proceed, repair complete, ok to test, test results, closing ECU and shipping. That was all same day too. You can even pay for overnight shipping and have it back same week if they can get to it quickly. I wasn't in a hurry so sent it USPS flat rate and got it back from time I dropped it off in 9 days.

My ECU looked similar with that corrosion and had damaged pads from the previous owner removing the old caps himself. They repaired the pads cleaned it up, recapped it, and socketed it all for about 70 bucks. With S&H was a total of 98 bucks. I paid 80 for the ECU off of EBAY, spent another 98 to get it fixed. So was a great deal.

But again ECMTuning is awesome. When I got the board back it didn't even look the same. It was in gorgeous condition. When they remove the corrosion they recoat the board again with a new coating of CIC (corrosion inhibiting compound).
 
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I have a 95 Talon ESI (FWD, 4 cyl, no turbo, auto) and it's having severe ECM related issues. I can trick it into running but it dies like its been hit with a kill switch for no discernible reason.

Removed the ECM, tried to take the housing apart, and I see that my board is set in a block of jelly that's as deep as the ECM housing itself. Is this common? How would you go about removing the jelly to get at the board? Should I ship it off for repairs or attempt to source a new one?
 
Update....

So I ended up sending it to ECMTuning. $110 later it is functional and even socketed.

It'll be a few months before I get to test it for myself, since I pulled the manifolds and the head the day I sent it out.

Mild build to come, still making decisions on how far I will go with it. Thanks for all the advice guys!! I might to a build blog once I start ordering parts.
 
Solution
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