ECMlink 1G Eagle Talon Has Fuel and Spark Will Not Start!

[Cj Anderson]

Hey Guys, I'm having issues with a new DSM build!

A little back story about the car, I bought the car in late 2018 with the engine removed due to issues with the block and also the transmission. When I got the car it was completely stock with no modifications. I purchased a stock rebuilt 4G63 long block using an N/A block. I am reusing most of the original engine sensors, I did replace the coolant temp sensor and knock sensor.

The car has a newly rebuilt transmission, transfer case. I'm using a used 2G MAF and intake tube with a 1G to 2G MAF wiring adapter, Evo 3 big 16G turbo With aftermarket exhaust header, 750cc RC Injectors, AEM Fuel Pressure regulator with rewired Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump, EGR/Emissions delete, New spark plugs and wires, ECMLink, Innovate SCG-1 wideband in the downpipe and wired to the Front 02 ECU Pin.

The issue I'm experiencing is the car will not start at all, a few months back I was able to get the car to sputter and try to run but after months of not touching the car, it will not even act like it wants to start. Today I drained the fuel tank added fresh gas with fuel filter then tried to start but nothing. I verified I have spark and fuel and the plugs are a little wet at times. I don't know if there is something wrong with my ECMLink tune that causes the car to flood itself or maybe a sensor causing the issue.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor thinking that could be causing issues, I did the TPS adjustment in ECMLink, adjusted the CAS, and verified it was installed correctly. I did hours of research on this forum and tried many things and still no luck. I hope I can get some help I'm lost on where to start.

I’ve been building this car for years but I have no experience tuning or driving this car as I bought it not running. Any helpful suggestions would be great ! I’m new to the DSM world.

 

[steve]

If the plugs are wet they are likely fuel fouled. Clean or replace them.

Please take a new log of you trying to start the car and post it here.

What's changed since last July when you last posted about this? Did you fix the issue with you intake temp sensor being disconnected?

 

[Cj Anderson]

Since last July I replaced months old fuel with fresh fuel, I removed the plugs and clean them with start fluid and let the cylinders dry out. I replaced the MAF with a spare I bought with a Injen intake. I locked out the coolant and intake temp in ECMlink that made no difference. I removed the timing covers and check to make sure time is correct. I'm in the process of swapping to speed density when i acquire all the parts. I noticed my fuel tab is 0's across the board? Ill put the car back together and try starting it again I'm drying the cylinders again.

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[92AWDHX40]

Do you have compression.

 

[steve]

Please post the log, not pictures of it.
I would suggest holding off switching to SD until you have the car running well.

The fuel table indicates you are neither adding or removing fuel fuel from the factory maps.
When I looked at the old log there was something funny going on that caused your IPW to go to zero and the engine to die. The cause was not diagnosed.

 

[Cj Anderson]

I haven't checked the compression, it's a completely rebuilt long block, I should check it while the plugs are out to confirm. I'll post my logs tonight or tomorrow. I'm away from the car today. Thank you guys for taking the time to read my post.

 

[Cj Anderson]

Here is my log-starting attempt. The car ran rough for a few seconds then died.

 

[Cj Anderson]

2nd log

 

[sicawd]

Check if your ecmlink app and your firmware is up to date. Ecmlink released a update.

I was at my wits end diagnosing a no start when i unplug my maf to replace my bov.

 

[Cj Anderson]

I’m pretty much at my wits end too, I’ll check my firmware tonight. Thank you for the heads up.

 

[steve]

Still happening. Something is causing the ECU to turn off the injectors which causes the engine to stall. The IPW prior seems long/high for 750cc injectors as does the AirflowPerRev. Don't see the smoking gun yet.

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[chrisman287]

Do the injectors have power going to them with the key on? Maybe check continuity on the ECU side of that circuit. Have injectors been cleaned/tested?

Will it run while spraying starter fluid?

Has the ECU been checked for damage or repaired and tested?

 

[steve]

Do the injectors have power going to them with the key on? Maybe check continuity on the ECU side of that circuit. Have injectors been cleaned/tested?

They clearly do during his startups. Something it telling the ECU to stop running. If it thought it was pulsing the injectors and wasn't actually the IPW would still show what it was trying to do and you should get a CEL from the feedback check the ECU does that the injectors are pulsing.

 

[Cj Anderson]

Yes the injectors get power when the key is on, the injectors are brand new, and the ECU was sent out and tested at ECM link , I had to have the eprom socketed. I haven’t tried the starter fluid in a while, but I do recall it running for a few seconds longer than it would die out. I’m going to check my firmware tonight. I can hear each injector clicking with the cam angle sensor removed and me turning it by hand. Also, I have spark when I do that. I don’t have any check engine lights in ECM link. I’m at the point where I might pull the fuel rail off and see if injectors are really spraying fuel. I also noticed a relay inside the dash clicking when the cam angle sensor is moving.

 

[steve]

I also noticed a relay inside the dash clicking when the cam angle sensor is moving.

The MPI relay on the passenger side of the center console contains the relay for the fuel pump. The ECU activates the pump when it see CAS pulses and turns it off when it hasn't seen any for a few seconds. This may be what you're hearing.

 

[Cj Anderson]

I just updated the ECM with the new software and the car will stay running on its own! She doesn't run all that well but she will idle for the most part. I posted a log of the car running but not sure where to go with it now.

 

[steve]

Now that the root cause has been fixed, I suggest starting completely over, clear everything and work forward. Add ISCPosition, Battery, Fuel trims (CombinedFT, LTFT Low, Mid, and High and STFT) to the captured variables and run a log all the way from start to when the CoolTemp reaches 190F.

You have Lock in open loop mode turned on in the Misc tab, you want to make sure that is off when you reset the ECU.

Before the start the car run the throttle all the way up and down so we can see it work.

Right now your AirflowPerRev is still twice what is expected at idle and your InjOn (IPW) is very long for 750cc injectors when idling even with the AirflowPerRev being what it is.

What are you trying to do here?

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[Cj Anderson]

Hey, Steve thank you for looking at my Log, I will reset the ECU today, Do I lock in open loop mode after the reset? As far as the fuel tab setting I noticed the -39.8 not sure what I did there, I noticed it last night when I removed my computer from the car I'll reset it today. Now the car will run I will adjust my timing to hopefully smooth the idle. I'll add the settings to my log and do a sweep of the throttle before starting and hopefully the car will be drivable to start fine-tuning it.

 

[steve]

Do I lock in open loop mode after the reset?

No, I'd like to see if it will go into closed loop and what the trims do when it does.

So, full reset, set injectors, set MAF, make sure no temps are locked, add the capture values and get a log. (update- Add baro as well)

Everything needs to be working correctly before you can move forward.
Have you checked that the base timing is at 5* BTDC?

 

[We're on Boost]

@Cj Anderson
Also add CrankingFuelAdj to your Captured Values. It's probably working but let's see it.

 

[Cj Anderson]

I performed the ECU reset, now the car will not start again. What is the possibility my timing could be off but still be able to run when it did? I keep racking my brain why it will not run when I have spark and fuel. I have a feeling the two used 2g maf might be bad they show -74 temp in ECMLink. The 1G maf reads the correct temp but still no start with the original maf.

 

[chrisman287]

My timing was slightly off and would not allow the car to start all the time. When it did it would run like absolute shit. What’s crazy is that it wasn’t too far off but I do have cams not sure if that played into it. Here’s a before and after

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[steve]

I performed the ECU reset, now the car will not start again. What is the possibility my timing could be off but still be able to run when it did? I keep racking my brain why it will not run when I have spark and fuel. I have a feeling the two used 2g maf might be bad they show -74 temp in ECMLink. The 1G maf reads the correct temp but still no start with the original maf.

I hate to be a broken record but without a log of you trying to start it, it's hard to know what's going on.

It sounds like there is a problem with your cable to adapt the 2G MAF to the 1G harness. Can I see it?

 

[Cj Anderson]

I've attached a new log from today. I cycled the throttle from closed to wide-open before trying to start. I reinstalled the 2G maf and attached a few pictures of the 1g to 2g maf adapter. I clean the spark plugs off and ran a compression check, all cylinders have 160PSI.

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[chrisman287]

I would check continuity on all of those wires. I had a CAS adapter harness on my car that looked perfectly fine but one wire was no good