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1g 7bolt into a 2g (double check me)

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mygsx2120

15+ Year Contributor
354
2
Jan 4, 2006
Newark, Ohio
TO ANYONE WHO READS THIS POST, I DO NOT NEED TO KNOW WHICH PARTS PERfORM BETTER. I AM SELLING THE CAR AND BUILDING A 1G SO I PEFER TO NOT USE THE BETTER PARTS. JUST NEED TO MAKE SURE I AM CORRECT IN UNDERSTANDING WHAT IS INTERCHANGABLE

Alright, this should be the ultimate in dsm part compatibility. I pulled out the motor in my 2g (brand new 6 bolt with 2g head) and am going to replace it with the motor out of my 1g (older 7 bolt, 1g head) I think I understand everything but want to make sure. I ended up last minute buying quite a few part for my 6 bolt swap.

1. Can I plug in the crank sensor just like on a 2g motor? Or do I need to retain my RRE harness for the crank and cam sensors? I believe I can just plug in the crank sensor and sell my harness, right?

2. I plan on using the 1g head, since it is coming out of a running car I will have the IM, coil pack, etc. Also I plan on using my 2g TB. Is everything just plug and play?

3. I know I will have to change the driver side mount and use my 2g alternator. Anything else? Does it matter which starter?

Also if anyone has any helpful advice or words of wisdom I am all ears. Thanks in advance:rocks:
 
If you've already had a 6 bolt in your 2g then putting in a 1g 7 bolt will be easy. There's no provisions for the 2g crank angle sensor on either 1g motor so you will just have to wire it like it was a 6 bolt swap. You'd be better off either leaving it alone or putting a 1g head on the 6 bolt (but honestly the 1g head isn't all the much better than a 2g, some say it's not as good as a 2g because the 1g head has bigger ports, but the 2g head has a better port design)

My only question is why on earth would you pull out a "brand new 6 bolt" to put in an old 7 bolt? Or are you asking us to double check your head for improper thoughts???

Also, your 2g TB is smaller than a 1g, so if you can get it put the 1g on, keep the 1g intake as well.

And whatever mount is on the car at this point is the mount you will use either way, the alternators aren't that much different as far as fitment from what i remember.
 
My only question is why on earth would you pull out a "brand new 6 bolt" to put in an old 7 bolt? Or are you asking us to double check your head for improper thoughts???

I knew that was the first thing someone was going to ask. The 7 bolt motor is coming from my 1g. I am going to sell my 2g, as I cant afford three toys (have an rx7 also) I am keeping all the goodies for my 1g and putting my 2g back to moderately stock as that is how I will benefit most. I want to use the 2g head on my 1g project as it atomizes better and I plan on having it pretty heavily ported so flow will not be a factor. This is also why I plan on using my 2g throttle body, so I can keep my 1g TB.

And whatever mount is on the car at this point is the mount you will use either way, the alternators aren't that much different as far as fitment from what i remember.

Yes, I was saying I will need to put the modified mount from my 6 bolt engine and use it on my 1g 7 bolt. I read that the plug ins for the altermators are generation specific and asked because the one on my 2g is much newer and I would like to keep it for my 1g project.

Thanks, Craig
Also, about the crank sensor, when I searched there were alot of conflicting posts. There were some where wiseman stated that a 1g 7 bolt did have a provision for a crank sensor. But there are also many very well proven members such a turboglenn who have posted other wise. ???????
 
Also, your 2g TB is smaller than a 1g, so if you can get it put the 1g on, keep the 1g intake as well.

I would also recommend this, so long as you are keeping a 1G head on the car. (not sure if that's the plan, OP?)

Thanks, Craig
Also, about the crank sensor, when I searched there were alot of conflicting posts. There were some where wiseman stated that a 1g 7 bolt did have a provision for a crank sensor. But there are also many very well proven members such a turboglenn who have posted other wise. ???????

For as long as I've known, there are 5 types of CAS systems. 90, 91-92,93-94, 95-96, and 97-99. Saying a 1G or 2G CAS system is actually incorrect. Based on that information, I will safely bet that the 1G 7 bolt uses a 1G CAS mounted at the intake cam/head and does NOT have a crank angle sensor.

this page further backs me up.
 
Thank you both turboglenn and blackspooln for you help. My 7 bolt does has a black top CAS so I will just plan on retaining the RRE harness.

I would also recommend this, so long as you are keeping a 1G head on the car. (not sure if that's the plan, OP?)

The car will have a 1g intake manifold and a 2g TB. I know this is far from ideal but do not care as I am selling the car once it's back together. I need to keep the 1g TB to put on my 1g car with a heavily ported 2g head and a SMIM.

The first time I tried to sell my 2g, it seemed no one who was interested cared about performance parts. I got the most emails from girls and high school kids who didn't even know what a 50 trim turbo meant or what DSM even stood for. I am even debating putting back on the T25 in place on the EVO III 16g.

Alright guys, I think I am ready to rock. I will post back if I have anymore specific questions. Thanks, Craig
 
Tom, I remember Eric telling me that the black top CAS is only more beneficial if you don't have DSMlink. I think it may cause some problems with DSMlink, or it just doesn't work any better than a green top. Maybe Eric can chime in if he remembers what he told me :p

Plus, I want to powdercoat my CAS and I know the green tops work fine, but I'm not sure how the black tops work with this.
 
Tom, I remember Eric telling me that the black top CAS is only more beneficial if you don't have DSMlink. I think it may cause some problems with DSMlink, or it just doesn't work any better than a green top. Maybe Eric can chime in if he remembers what he told me

The black top CAS is less likely to 'throw' the misfire code that is common with a 6 bolt swap. If you have dsmlink you can clear the code so it is almost irrelevent which on you use. I don't believe the black top CAS is known to cause any problems though. I believe the difference is the green top CAS is a hall effect and the black top CAS is optical, but don't quote me on that.
 
Correct, the black top cas is less likely to throw a misfire code thus making it beneficial for people without dsmlink. You got the types mixed up though. Black top = hall effect type, green top = optical type. I have read of a few people having trouble setting base timing with a black top because they couldn't get enough adjustment out of it. Who knows though, they probably weren't doing it right or something.
 
Correct, the black top cas is less likely to throw a misfire code thus making it beneficial for people without dsmlink. You got the types mixed up though. Black top = hall effect type, green top = optical type. I have read of a few people having trouble setting base timing with a black top because they couldn't get enough adjustment out of it. Who knows though, they probably weren't doing it right or something.

LOL yes I know, I was just being cynical because he happened to have a very-much sought after 1G hall CAS (for those unfortunate enough to not run DSMLink) :) For us, we just have to click off the misfire option and everything is gravy. :rocks:
 
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