1997 GST starting problem

[Kayo Stanciu]

I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST(4G63) and I’m having a starting problem. The only way I can get the car to start is by rolling it to start. The ignition switch clicks, I replaced the starter thinking that was the problem and got nothing, the battery volts read about 13.2 according to the hks turbo timer, once I roll it to start it works great and stays on. But can’t get it to start. Any ideas anyone?

 

[pauleyman]

Hmm...no profile. We don't even know what you have. I'll assume 5 spd. Battery ground? Clutch safety? Battery terminals? Did this start out of the blue or did it always do it?

 

[Kayo Stanciu]

Hmm...no profile. We don't even know what you have. I'll assume 5 spd. Battery ground? Clutch safety? Battery terminals? Did this start out of the blue or did it always do it?

Sorry I’m kinda new . I have a 5sp I just picked it up. I checked the terminals they looked good, no corrosion or anything on them and they are tight. And he said it started out the blue he thought it was the starter, so he changed the starter and it didn’t fix the problem. I’ll have to check the safety switch. Probably a dumbass question but where is it located? I’m new and eager to learn about the car more

 

[chrysler kid]

The neutral safety switch is the clutch depression switch. If I remember correctly you can just unplug it

The other thing to check is the starter switch. My 98 gst has a bad ignition cylinder and I have to be careful and really press the key into the cylinder as I turn it forward, if I dont the car will make a grinding clicking noise from behind the radio

 

[pauleyman]

Visual inspection doesn't cut it. Remove and clean. Look at your clutch pedal. The safety switch is at the bottom. It's pushed by a little rubber thing on the pedal. I've seen those fall out. I pay no attention as I've unplugged my switch.

 

[Kayo Stanciu]

The neutral safety switch is the clutch depression switch. If I remember correctly you can just unplug it

The other thing to check is the starter switch. My 98 gst has a bad ignition cylinder and I have to be careful and really press the key into the cylinder as I turn it forward, if I dont the car will make a grinding clicking noise from behind the radio

Okay tomorrow when I get home from work that will be the first thing I looked at then. Do you happen to have a picture by any chance or is it obvious out in the open by the clutch pedal?

Visual inspection doesn't cut it. Remove and clean. Look at your clutch pedal. The safety switch is at the bottom. It's pushed by a little rubber thing on the pedal. I've seen those fall out. I pay no attention as I've unplugged my switch.

Okay I’ll do that as well tomorrow I’ll take them off and scrub is down with a wire brush see if that helps any. How do I unplug it so I don’t have to worry about it? It would be nice if it’s just that . I was told by a friend the battery voltage might read good but the amperage might be bad. How do I check that

 

[dustyboner]

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[Kayo Stanciu]

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That’s a big ass switch jk. So I’m guessing the little metal switch thing in the part that should be getting pushed in?.. thank you guys for the help btw and not trolling and eating me alive because I’m a rookie to this

 

[chrysler kid]

Go outside and look at it. Just because youre new to this doesnt mean you cant use common sense.

Use Google to help you search for it. We're not here to answer you like siri on your iPhone

 

[Kayo Stanciu]

Alright so I looked at everything it looked good until I got to my fuse box in the engine comparent. The 100a alternator fuse is blown so thinking that’s the problem

 

[chrysler kid]

Yeah that would definitely cause some problems.

The fuse is bolted into the fuse box. There is one bolt on the front and one on the back. They sell that fuse at most auto parts stores

 

[pauleyman]

You alternator won't charge the battery without it but that won't keep a battery from turning the car over.

 

[Kayo Stanciu]

Okay so I changed the fuse out, I hear the relay clicking behind the radio, the battery is reading 11.8v according to the turbo timer, when I hook up jumper cables it reads 13.2 but no start, the battery was low on water, took about 40oz of distilled water(think that might be a problem), the spark plugs looked good, I disconnect the neutral safety switch, was told to try jumping it straight to the battery terminals and that didn’t work, the connections all looked snug going into the starter, the starter was installed yesterday, I’m lost here now

By any chance can you guys tell me what your starter power cable looks like? It’s is black with a yellow or white stripe coming from the right side

 

[pauleyman]

Was it working before? Did you install the ground to the starter?

 

[dustyboner]

By any chance can you guys tell me what your starter power cable looks like? It’s is black with a yellow or white stripe coming from the right side

Black with a yellow stripe from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. this wire has an intermediate connector in the engine bay, make sure it is connected. it looks like

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[Kayo Stanciu]

Was it working before? Did you install the ground to the starter?

No I just bought it Sunday and I’m trying to figure it out, the guy said it stopped working a month or two ago so he’s been popping the clut h to get it started every now in then like 1-2 times a week to take it to work, he thought it was was the starter so he replaced the starter Sunday morning and it didn’t fix the problem, and I tried the rest I listed and still nothing,

Black with a yellow stripe from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. this wire has an intermediate connector in the engine bay, make sure it is connected. it looks like

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Thank you for that I’ll have to get under today and look around, the bigger thick cable is the negative Than I’m assuming. It’s black with a yellow stripe as well I think or might be white. But that’s connected to the negative terminal so it better be the negative

 

[dustyboner]

yeah the 4ga black/yellow cables are (-). one goes to the transmission (starter ground) and one goes to the firewall behind the battery.

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[pauleyman]

Thank you for that I’ll have to get under today and look around, the bigger thick cable is the negative Than I’m assuming. It’s black with a yellow stripe as well I think or might be white. But that’s connected to the negative terminal so it better be the negative

The cable is negative yes but sometimes people forget to hook it to the starter mount bolts at the transmission side. Given it was working before you bought it I doubt that's it. Get a circuit diagram and find the possible failure points. Can't remember it all at the moment. Electrical diagnosis 101.

 

[dustyboner]

http://www.mediafire.com/file/2lv6zr2aysltkda/97-99_full_service_manual_Vol1&2.zip

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[chrysler kid]

Okay so I changed the fuse out, I hear the relay clicking behind the radio, the battery is reading 11.8v according to the turbo timer, when I hook up jumper cables it reads 13.2 but no start, the battery was low on water, took about 40oz of distilled water(think that might be a problem), the spark plugs looked good, I disconnect the neutral safety switch, was told to try jumping it straight to the battery terminals and that didn’t work, the connections all looked snug going into the starter, the starter was installed yesterday, I’m lost here now

My car does this when the key cylinder isnt pressed in as you turn the key. Try pushing the key in and turn the key at the same time

When mine makes that Buzz noise it is not from the starter relay. I could put my hand on the relay and tell it was not clicking or making that noise.

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[Vegas Smith]

I don't think I've see you mention whether the start cranks at all. If it doesn't crank at all then check the starter signal wire to runs to the start spade connector.

 

[Kayo Stanciu]

Sorryy it’s doesnt crank at all only clicks, I jumped the red and black wire with the black and yellow wire from the relay and now I get the click and a buzzing sound from the relay I think is it. But car still won’t crank or anything other than clicking and buzzing

 

[dustyboner]

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[Kayo Stanciu]

Does that look normal? Looks like some kind of harden resin/epoxy in The relay

So I plugged the relay in because I believe I unplugged the cruise control and not the clutch switch. I think I found the clutch switch, I believe it’s the plug against the firewall it’s white and silver with a white button? If that’s it I can’t get my big ass hand in there to unplug it, but I pressed the “button” down and turn the ignition with the relay plugged in and again, I got the buzzing sound. When I release the “button” it just clicks once. What could be causing the buzzin sound? Again the starter is new, I checked the colts to it and it’s getting 12V, the battery is good, fuses are good. Idk what else

 

[pauleyman]

Get a meter and follow the circuit diagrams.