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1G 1990 Dynatec Arc-2 300M COP Help

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evil_eagletalon

Proven Member
341
195
Jan 21, 2015
Orange, California
Does anyone know what needs to be done to wire up a Dynatec Arc-2 and 300m COP on a 1990 DSM? The coils are wired already on the plate. Also have my Arc-2 setup with soldered in tach interface from OEM coil.

Marty told me something about the PTU needing to be rewired. I cannot find anything.
 
And I wish I had more experience with COP but all of my cars are on stock ignition. Very sorry to not be of more help. :(
 
Not sure if this will help you, but this is how the stock "90 dsm tach setup runs, perhaps if you run red and black [ sometimes white] wire on the filter to the equivalent "91-"94 coil pair wires, that would keep your tachometer working, you would just have to get a "90 dsm coil pigtail and then a "91-"94 triangle one and make an adapter that integrates the tach filter.
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This is a write-up to show how to make the Dynatek ARC-2 CDI box work on a 1990 model year DSM using the installation harness for the 1991-1999 model year cars.

A coil pack from a 1991-up model year DSM will be needed unless the installer wishes to put a 4 pin 1990 model year plug onto the coil pack side of the ARC-2 installation harness and remove the Mitsubishi tach interface from the coil pack. If the tach interface isn’t removed from the coil pack and the ARC-2 is installed the tach interface will fail and catch fire after a few minutes of the engine running.

1. Remove the tach interface from the coil pack. This is relatively easy. It is the small approximately 1” by 1” by 3/8” square block on the side of the coil pack appropriately named TACH INTERFACE. It has a white, red, and yellow wire coming off of it. Remove the white and red wires from the coil pack posts. Using a safety pin remove the yellow wire and its associated pin connector from the 4 pin plug of the coil pack.

2. Here you can see closer how you are going to remove the pins. First pull the center tab (this is on the three pin plug from the ARC-2 harness; the 4 pin plug works the same).



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Now use your safety pin to push back the holding tab and the pin will be able to be tugged out from the back.


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Remove all the pins from the 4 pin plug at the coil pack and all the pins from the 3 pin plug on the ARC-2 harness with the orange, blue/black, and white/black wires. The 3 pin plug on the ARC-2 harness with the solid black, blue, and white wires will remain untouched.

3. You should be left with a coil pack with no plug as well as three pins on your ARC-2 harnesses with no plug. The color of these three wires on the ARC-2 harness should be orange, blue/black, and white/black. Now push the pins into the 4 pin plug as shown below. You will notice that the locking tab for the plug is at the top of the picture. The colors across the top are blue/black and white/black. The orange power wire from the ARC-2 goes in the lower left hole. Take the yellow wire and pin you removed earlier from the coil pack and slide it in the remaining hole in the lower right.


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4. You will notice some extra wires in the above picture. You will be soldering on the red and white wires you removed from the coil pack earlier into the ARC-2 harness. The order doesn’t matter just as long as the red and white wires go to the blue/black and white/black wires on the ARC-2 harness. Leave yourself 2” of wire.

5. Now we are on the homestretch. You will have to shorten the yellow wire to about 3” and solder a new connector on. The red and white wires go the pins labeled “IN” on the tach interface. The yellow wire goes to the pin labeled “OUT” on the tach interface. Zip tie it to the harness to keep it from dangling in your car.



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6. You will have to use a 1991 coil pack to mate to the ARC-2 harness unless you have a female 4 pin plug to put on the output side of the ARC-2 harness. If you have a 4 pin plug you can reuse your 1990 coil pack. If you do use a 1990 coil pack, once again, make sure you do not have a tach interface on the coil pack or it will catch fire as the higher voltage of the ARC-2 will destroy it.

You basically move the tach interface to the ignitor side so that it doesn't get the high voltage from the ARC-2.
 

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The output of the arc-2 goes to the coils. They can be stock or aftermarket, it does not matter. I’m not sure what your question is?
Thats what i thought i just dont want to burn my ecu or car down. I figured since its waste spark i would wire it the same as oem coils just want to be sure. I guess i want someone who has done it to hold my hand.
 
You won’t burn up your ecu. The ecu interfaces with the PTU and drives the coils or arc-2 in your case. The PTU is your ecu buffer. The arc-2 then drives the coils. You will pair 1/4 and 2/3 because the stock ecu is waste spark. The only way to cause a fire is by not keeping the tacho interface on the low voltage side, between the PTU and arc-2. Ask me how I know.
 
You won’t burn up your ecu. The ecu interfaces with the PTU and drives the coils or arc-2 in your case. The PTU is your ecu buffer. The arc-2 then drives the coils. You will pair 1/4 and 2/3 because the stock ecu is waste spark. The only way to cause a fire is by not keeping the tacho interface on the low voltage side, between the PTU and arc-2. Ask me how I know.
Thanks danl I will give it a shot!!! I just put the valve body back in the car. And fixing a leaking turbo drain line.
 
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