Appreciate it. I was conflicted about it at first. Usually not big on wangs....but this was a totally reversible mod if I hated it.

Last week, I sent out my mechanical fuel pump to Aeromotive to be looked at. I was given a 3 week wait time before they can look at it (when it arrives) and to their credit, they told me this BEFORE I sent it out. Today I shipped out my ECU to Haltech so they can fix an issue I have been having with the communication port. Makes it a pain to load my tunes and datalog. Kinda important. The goal is to make at least one pass before the end of the year...I don't care if it runs 15s. It's a goal. The past few weeks I have just been dialing in the tune and it's running good. I had to gap down the plugs after I noticed some misfires at high RPM this past weekend. I am at 0.017" gap now on the BR7s which I normally don't use...typically BR8s is what I use but the heat on the plugs look great. When I turn it up to the moon boost and tune, I will get the 8s again. I will update when I have an update. It's summer, so, normally not too much car action since it's hot AF and for the first time in years I actually have 2 running projects.

I also bought a GPS speedo (mine needs recalibration in the Haltech software) and I also picked up a power inverter to power the random stuff in my car like the Dragy, laptop etc. Works great. I still need to mount it solidly on the passenger side floor. Too much craziness there right now. That will be the winter project. Also, a photo of my hatch area. I don't think I have posted this before. The fuel cell holds 10 gallons which i have gone through at least 3x now. That is how much street time this "race car" is getting.

Chased a shifting issue all weekend, ended up frying something in my ECU but figured out a workaround. All this because of a shitty $5 relay. POS! Stay away from Amazon Chinese relays on anything important. Buy Bosch, Beuler or any well known brands only! This thing was internally shorted so as soon as it was plugged in it was 100% active with no switching.

I feel that. My tune has been golden and all of a sudden I started getting lean Idle issues and cruise. Checked everything I could (WB wiring, injectors, spark) ended up opening the ECU and have some corrosion and leakage. Its on the way to ECMtuning. Hopefully this helps, but if not atleast ill have a cleaned up ecu

Working on the launch and man, my best one so far. There was a lot of wheel spin (that's why there is a downward trace in the acceleration graph after launch) so I need to dial it back a little on street tires but I was happy to be able to do this with NO nitrous or a 2 step of any kind, just on the brakes! It was hot AF out too.
0-60mph=3.70s
60 ft = 1.84s
Keep in mind car is on wastegate (18psi) but it's creeping up to 26psi uptop. I will give it more eventually once I address the fuel pump! It's not keeping up at all. Lambda approaching 0.90. No bueno!

PS: If you follow my Mustang build, you can see a correlation between my dragy and track timeslips here. The Dragy 60 is usually slower than what it does at the track so this was easily a 1.7x 60 at the track and there is plenty to improve on. As it gets cooler into the winter months, I will get more aggressive with it...but I need to install the good fuel pump first.

August 2026 Update:
So this weekend, I completed a couple things I had on my ever evolving checklist. I reconfigured my fuel sump setup since I reinstalled my mechanical Aeromotive fuel pump. I made a couple changes. I have the 2 -8s from the fuel cell going to a Y making it a -10, then I have a low pressure Vibrant 1-way check valve, right after that I have the "T" feeding from my primer line which is just an Amazon 044 copy, the 300lph. I was running this pump before to run the engine but at 20psi boost with a 43psi BFP on E85, it was tapped out. The line I used from this pump is a -10, which is not really necessary but I already had the fittings and line this size.

Feeder side of the pump runs to another 1 way check valve (just used generic Amazon) then the line steps down to a -6 from a fitting on the driver's side of the fuel cell. After the T, it goes to the 100 micron Redhorse fuel filter then continues as a -10 to a 7 or 10 micron Magnafuel filter (not in this photo) but it's right by the rear wheel on the driver side. This used to be in the engine bay but I moved it out of there since it just complicated my plumbing in a tight space. The -10 line continues into the engine bay straight to the mechanical pump and into the rail. I tried to make this as direct as possible. -10 exits the Magnus fuel rail to the Aeromotive AFPR then -8 all the way to the fuel cell. The cell has a -8AN venting downwards. Everything works great.

I have the primer pump wired to a momentary switch by my steering wheel and it takes a couple seconds to pressure the line to 43psi. I then crank the engine and it fires immediately. Testing without priming the line, the car starts but needs about two tries for the mechanical pump to pressurize the line, not too bad honestly! I do intend to always prime the line with the primer pump tho.

I also mounted my coilpack behind the block to free up some space by the strut tower. Came out great. Now, I just need to go test it all out once I get a chance and it's not 100 degrees outside. Enough with the yapping, now some photos.

Photos from a couple weeks ago. Next is more tuning and cranking the boost up. Lots of fuel. The flow chart for this pump is ridiculous. Around 300-400lph at 1500rpm and like 1300lph at 4000rpm.