Wiring Nightmare Causing Tons of Issues (420a, A/T)

[gunnermaiden]

Hey guys, long time no post!

I did search before posting but it seems like everyone's electric problems are pretty dang specific, couldn't find anything that answers my question.

So I went out to cruise in my car yesterday and finally it didn't start for the first since I owned it (bought it last year).

It's always been a pretty hard starter, but usually if I depressed the gas pedal just a bit it would be enough to get it going. The last time I drove it, it stalled out at a light but kicked over right away when I turned the key then was fine. (After I just typed this and thought about I should probably make sure there's no fuel clogs too..)

I had it parked in a cool garage for about 2 months after that. (I attached a photo), I found really bad corrosion (which is new) on the positive battery post, traced the wire to where it was grounded and it looked pretty bad on both ends. Obviously I'm going to have to replace it as it's pretty fried.

Now my questions:
1) I'm looking for a battery cable, none of the new ones I'm finding are labeled positive or negative, does this matter or does it only matter how they're mounted/grounded?
2) As I mentioned my car was always a hard starter, could it really have been just that one cable all along or are there other things I should examine electrically too? (The car does click when trying to start, but I can't tell where it's coming from).
3) This car has a million things wrong with it electrically, what are some other symptoms that bad battery cables could cause? I checked the negative wire and it seems to be in good condition and it is properly grounded. I'm hoping I'll kill 2 birds with one stone by replacing the one cable

I should note that the second pic is how the previous owner rigged up the power to the HID kit they installed (thin red wire). I'm suspecting that had something to do with how the cable got fried in the first place as that does not look appropriate to me at all. I disconnected the kit as of yesterday and am planning on redoing it a better way.

 

[PlanZero]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Ec...3A144e08ec15d0ac8074bd7b8afff94967%7Ciid%3A19
Haha that'll tell you. I forget the voltage test for the tps, it's easy because the tps is non adjustable on that car so it either works or it doesn't. You have to remove the CTS to test it, and even though it only takes 5 mins to pull it you still have to drain a little coolant so most people just swap it with a new one. You can probably find one on rock auto for like $5. Sorry couldn't be more help I'm at work.

 

[gunnermaiden]

@1990TSIAWDTALON : I looked at the guide, thank you! However I don't think a TPS on a 420a is adjustable like on the 4g63's

@PlanZero : If it's that cheap I'll just swap it out regardless. Trying to avoid draining the coolant if I can but it's looking like I can't so I'll start there. And that was plenty helpful, thank you!

 

[PlanZero]

Draining the coolant is super easy. If you're at stock height you don't even need to jack up the car. Put a drain pan under the radiator petcock and reach under there and twist it open, open the cap up top and just let it drain enough out of the tstat housing where the sensors are. That's the highest point on a 420 I think so it only has to be drained a little. I've done them without draining the coolant but you have to be quick and you'll still get some coolant loss.
Yeah you definitely need at least a Haynes manual. 90% of the questions you're asking are in there, and it's for all models so you don't have to keep searching through all the 4g related posts on the interweb.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Yep, my bad man. I didn't realize the 420a's were set like my GM car is.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

 

[gunnermaiden]

@PlanZero looks like I found peices of the manual I downloaded online but I'll go ahead and purchase it, it's cheap enough.

@1990TSIAWDTALON : it's all good!

 

[gunnermaiden]

Quick Update: Wanted to pop in for anyone who was following this thread that I didn't abandon the post, just been really busy at my store (and I just closed on a house) and haven't had time. I'm going to pick up the CTS and TPS either tonight or tomorrow and will be getting it done soon after.

 

[gunnermaiden]

Update:

Went to change the CTS and discovered a harline crack on the block. Thought nothing of it as it wasn't leaking and has never showed signs. As soon as I tapped (by HAND) the old CTS to break it loose enough to remove by hand, I heard a "pop", and the crack expanded to an inch in length and wouldn't stop leaking. To entertain myself I started the car anyway after replacing the part just to see if that was the problem - it was. I didn't have to mash down on the pdal anymore and it fired right up as normal! But I have decided that this project is over as this car has a plethora and a LONG list of other things it needs done and it's just sadly not worth it anymore. (UNLESS someone has a really cheap long-term suggestion to fill the crack in the block but I'm pretty sure that's impossible)

In short - my hard start problem was solved by changing the CTS.

Thanks to everyone that ever so kindly helped without judging - I am now in the market for a GS-T though!