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Which Turbo Should I Get [merged] What Turbo

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Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
8,831
4,642
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Which turbo will be sufficient for consistent 11 second times? I've recently decided on a big 16g, but will that be big enough to run 11s with supporting mods and decent tuning? Remember, this is for a budget street car, so any one purchase over $1k is tough. A big 16g will run about $700-900, which is about $300-400 less than the larger alternatives.

Of course, I'll need lots of practice to run these times, but, I just want to make sure that it's possible before the money is spent.
 
If your profile is up to date my suggestion is just to go with 14b..For the time being anyway..Then after you get your fuel mods and tuning device, I might go 16g or bigger..

You could just go with a 16g, but 14b's are cheap..And are damm nice turbo's..

Unless you have a list of stuff your doing soon that you want to post up..
 
Mhi ones are great ive owned a the 14b and the evo loved them both. Also what are your goals, for your car the 16g evo is a bad turbo for the street with the supporting mods. I had fun with it, had to move on a bit, for now and later something else. Get the supporting mods and youll be happy with a a16g.
 
Most people are happy with a 16g..If you want 3-350 hp..If your going moster like 500 hp, fwd might be your only flaw..

16g's are great street level drivable turbo's.. I have yet to go 18g, 20g, 68hta..

If it's track only build then you are gonna have more options..
 
Yep i agree, 350hp a good goal for the 16g evo with mods youll have a street terror turbo.I hate no traction so ill be going awd soon as i can, but now working on engine.
 
Block just got bored .20 over.I plan on getting a stage head 3 head and rotating assembly from slow boy. As far as fuel its gonna be 2200cc injectors with duel wallys. Magnus intake manifold. Dejon 3" intke with fp 3" intercooler and custom exhaust and spark will be from cop.
 
Good point. I was thinking either dsm link or aem with Meth injection.




QUOTE=iugrad92turbo;152743590]Dont forget tuning method you can use yourself, and a wideband.[/QUOTE]

So back to the Turbo I was thinking either a 72mm or t-88
 
I'm the type of guy that wants it done one time that's it no running out of Turbo and having to upgrade.
What type of slicks hoosiers or American racer?
 
I just bought a ram horn style manifold.I was wondering what Turbo I should run with it?
One that fits the manifold and makes the amount of horsepower you're looking for.


Vague questions = vague answers.
 
Yeah true. Plus I never delt with Hoosiers on my racecar I use the American racers. So I think I will stick to those .



I would look into both and choose from there..

I myself have seen so many run hoosier, that, that's where I would start..But that's just me..

If i knew what fit I wouldn't have asked and started a thread!!!!






One that fits the manifold and makes the amount of horsepower you're looking for.


Vague questions = vague answers.

What cam,s should I use with the build the BC 280/280s or..........
 
Last edited:
I'm curious what turbo I should put on now. I had a Jdm t3/t4 kit off eBay and the turbo is starting to go after 3 years. I wanted something smaller that woul bolt right on.. Any suggestions??
 
1990 Turbo 5 speed laser
Bought stock, supposedly had head work, haven't taken it off but it's been off before along with new head gasket at least and Turbo has been replaced before. Still small though LOL
Just cracked manifold

Now:
2g manifold
3" downpipe
Fmic kit


Want:
Injectors
safc
Turbo
320fwhp
tuned


Need to know:
what size injectors and Turbo to be safe for 320 and I will build engine later to get 380-400
 
well at that size of injectors, you will have to turn your afc almost all the way down just to compensate for the injector size, then the afc will be pretty useless for the actual tuning.

Look into a maf translator, the GM style, probably still around the 200$ range, and you can set your injector size and still have the ability to tune.

The only real problem with these types of tuning, is that when you do this (compensate for larger injectors) the device is basically telling the ecu it is getting less air then it actually is, by this the ecu will give less fuel per squirt. cool, the problem is when the ecu sees less air then it will use different timing maps for less airflow, which are higher timing numbers. so you just have to be careful.

Make sure you have a logger, and a wideband is almost a must have but you can use your knock sensor as a tool if you need.

if you are looking for a tuning program that will get you this , and room to grow. i would go with ecmlink.
 
well at that size of injectors, you will have to turn your afc almost all the way down just to compensate for the injector size, then the afc will be pretty useless for the actual tuning.

Look into a maf translator, the GM style, probably still around the 200$ range, and you can set your injector size and still have the ability to tune.

The only real problem with these types of tuning, is that when you do this (compensate for larger injectors) the device is basically telling the ecu it is getting less air then it actually is, by this the ecu will give less fuel per squirt. cool, the problem is when the ecu sees less air then it will use different timing maps for less airflow, which are higher timing numbers. so you just have to be careful.

Make sure you have a logger, and a wideband is almost a must have but you can use your knock sensor as a tool if you need.

if you are looking for a tuning program that will get you this , and room to grow. i would go with ecmlink.

So the maf translator instead of safc?
Or on top of safc

What's cost of just doing dsmlink?

Worth it to skip 16 and go straight to a 18 or 20?
or pte
 
The MAF-T can compensate for injectors, and a GM style maf.

The SAFC can do some rudimentary tuning.

DSM-Link can do both, plus a lot of other much cooler stuff. DSM Link will run you 425 for Lite, which is fine for street use or street/strip use and will be more than most DSMers need. But you also need a Eprom ecu and socketing, or a Non-Eprom and to pay for the conversion.

Unless you get lucky and find an eprom for cheap, or have one allready its going to be about 575-600$ for most of the capability of a full standalone.
 
So the maf translator instead of safc?
Or on top of safc

What's cost of just doing dsmlink?

Worth it to skip 16 and go straight to a 18 or 20?
or pte

eventually i had safc2 and maft , it worked ok.

When you combine the two prices dsmlink is a much better option for the price. also combine the cost of the logger because this has the best one out there.(opinion)

If you are looking to really dive into dsm's and make loads of power, then get ecmlink (dsmlink same thing)

If you just want to take your car up a few notches , maybe just be happy with running 12's then go maft.

16g's are fantastic turbo's , ecspecially the evo 3 16g. The punch it packs is unlike any other turbo i have run. You almost always have full boost at your foot peddle if you so ever need it.
 
eventually i had safc2 and maft , it worked ok.

When you combine the two prices dsmlink is a much better option for the price. also combine the cost of the logger because this has the best one out there.(opinion)

If you are looking to really dive into dsm's and make loads of power, then get ecmlink (dsmlink same thing)

If you just want to take your car up a few notches , maybe just be happy with running 12's then go maft.

16g's are fantastic turbo's , ecspecially the evo 3 16g. The punch it packs is unlike any other turbo i have run. You almost always have full boost at your foot peddle if you so ever need it.


thanks, im getting a maft kit today from someone here local

and waiting on the fmic kit to come from fedex, and probably going to order a turbo from ebay like a big 16g
and last question is injectors one more time

550 650 680
can get the 680 for like 120-150 and they are delphi injectors

any more suggestions would be appreciated
 
My turbo shaft bearings are gone. I just got the car running from the previous owner letting it sit for 4 years because of bad smoking. I got it running again with a walbro 255 hp. Other than that its stock.

I need a bolt out, bolt in turbo that wont brake the bank. I just want a good stock replacement for now. Id rather wait to go bigger or better once I give the car long deserved TLC. Its got alot of problems but this is the biggest one.

Ive looked around and it seems no one keeps new OEM turbos around, so besides craigslist where can I go?
 
Well the 14b swap would probably be your cheapest, but in the long run I would try to get my hands on a 16g. It wont disapoint you. Trust me it wont last long before you want to go faster and faster.
 
I'll second the 16g, great turbos. For a bolt up turbo, a Big T28 would work, but they come with an expensive price tag.

To buy, you can buy new off Forced Performance/Extreme PSI or other vendors, or you can buy a rebuilt one off turbo rebuilders on here in the freelancer section (http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/freelancer-products-services-10/).
 
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