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nightmares GS-T

10+ Year Contributor
332
3
Aug 18, 2009
Pearl, Mississippi
So here in the next few weeks I have a good bit of work planned out to do to the car and I was wondering if I could get some opinions on how to go about it. I will be installing a new timing belt along with a waterpump all new pulleys and a balance shaft delete, delta regrind 272s, cam gears if they are necessary, new lifters, new valve springs, motor mounts and trans mounts, new front end bushings, and a new transmission, and a new clutch. Now my question is would it be easier to do all of this in steps or just pull the motor and trans out at once and do it all with the engine removed? Would it be less overall work to go about it that way or would it be easier to just do the trans one weekend then the cams/timing components the next? Any input is appreciated. Also I will be doing my own clutch and replacing the flywheel plate this time around so how do I step it? This is my first go around with a clutch so I dont know about stepping or what it even is.
 
i try to picture you doing all of this with the engine in (practically a complete overhaul) and it seems so complicated not pulling it.

with that amount of work its clearly easier to pull the engine and do it all off the car. it would be less PITA work overall, specially if you are employed.
 
agreed with the guy above, pull the motor and tranny out and do all the work when its sitting outside the car. the trany is a PITA to get in and out when the motor is sitting in the car, if its hanging on the cherry picker is soooo much easier

sounds like a good solid weekend project, hope you have another dd because then you could have something to run to the parts store real quick with if something minor goes wrong or you need a bolt or something
 
I would think that pulling that motor would save you a huge headache and maybe even save you time. And like said above. Hope you have a extra car to drive for back up.
 
i try to picture you doing all of this with the engine in (practically a complete overhaul) and it seems so complicated not pulling it.

with that amount of work its clearly easier to pull the engine and do it all off the car. it would be less PITA work overall, specially if you are employed.

Oh yea I am employed and work 50 hour weeks so thats exactly why I asked time is crucial for me. Anyone have any links on good write ups on how to pull the motor and all? This will be the first time I have done it but im sure I can do it no problem. Since it will be coming out anything else I should check or replace while its out?
 
Oh yea I am employed and work 50 hour weeks so thats exactly why I asked time is crucial for me. Anyone have any links on good write ups on how to pull the motor and all? This will be the first time I have done it but im sure I can do it no problem. Since it will be coming out anything else I should check or replace while its out?

make sure you install the 3g revised 3mm lifters since your doing it anyway. dont want those suckers ticking 1000 miles in. and make sure your set and conforatble with your future hsp goals with your clutch option. you want to do this once. and once only. ask how i know that LOL. youll do the work and then be happy when everythings done and you dont have to go back in there because a clutch job is 10 times harder in the car

looks like you got all the other maintence done or on the list
 
You might be able to find some videos on youtube along with writeups on how to pull the engine etc. Like previously mentioned, you might as well go through a bunch of stuff when you have it out and completely refreshen it before it goes back in.
 
Yea I was definately goin with 3g lifters to get rid of the ticking. And clutch wise im thinking an act 2600 sprung 6 puck with a southbend pressure plate. That should be more than capable of holding my power level because after cams im done with power mods. It will be on to suspension after that. Again I ask though what is stepping the flywheel and how do you do it?
 
i just pulled the tranny out and put back in a couple of months ago and i agree it would be wayy easier with the motor out since you are doing all that work anyways. I would like to know what stepping the flywheel is too because ive never heard of it either and i just replaced mine with a light weight of course
 
If you have the proper equiptment I would pull the motor. I am in the process of do they same stuff. I did the motor mounts and timing with the motor in and it wasnt fun. I also just changed a clutch on a buddies eclipes. I wont do that again without pulling the motor. I currently have my motor out and just got it timed. I was so much easier with it out. Motor mounts would also have been cake. Wish I would have pulled the motor to begin with.
 
Well thanks everyone I guess ill be pulling the motor. Why would I have to pull the head to chang the valve springs? I didn't on my truck I had the tool that keeps pressure on the valves using a compressor.
 
Well thanks everyone I guess ill be pulling the motor. Why would I have to pull the head to chang the valve springs? I didn't on my truck I had the tool that keeps pressure on the valves using a compressor.

you right you dont have to. not everybody has the tool though, i used the tool and its way easier, but people sometimes either cant afford every special tool to make work easy or they just know one way to do things.
 
you right you dont have to. not everybody has the tool though, i used the tool and its way easier, but people sometimes either cant afford every special tool to make work easy or they just know one way to do things.

Ah ok well its not too expensive it only cost me like 20$. And even with the tool there is still a slight chance you can drop a valve we just had to be very careful. And again I ask WTF is stepping the flywheel LOL and how do you do it?
 
Ah ok well its not too expensive it only cost me like 20$. And even with the tool there is still a slight chance you can drop a valve we just had to be very careful. And again I ask WTF is stepping the flywheel LOL and how do you do it?

You have a machine shop to it. Has to be done on a lathe (like a brake rotor). Every clutch/vehicle has a specific step for proper clutch performance. The machine shop should be able to get the step information when you give them the vehicle/clutch info
 
What about putting rope in the cyllinder? I have heard that it works to hold the valves in and you don't have to worry about dropping a valve.

So I'm a little shade tree mechanic....
 
You have a machine shop to it. Has to be done on a lathe (like a brake rotor). Every clutch/vehicle has a specific step for proper clutch performance. The machine shop should be able to get the step information when you give them the vehicle/clutch info

Hmm. I can machine but I dont have a lathe. I have never done this before and this is clutch number 3. Is it absolutely necessary? I have a fidanza flywheel and I was always under the impression that just changing the plate out was good enough. If it must still be machined then should I even bother buying the new plate since mine isnt damaged? Could I just have this one machined?

What about putting rope in the cyllinder? I have heard that it works to hold the valves in and you don't have to worry about dropping a valve.

So I'm a little shade tree mechanic....

Lol well with a thin enough rope to ram down the spark plug hole im sure that would work fine.
 
Hmm. I can machine but I dont have a lathe. I have never done this before and this is clutch number 3. Is it absolutely necessary? I have a fidanza flywheel and I was always under the impression that just changing the plate out was good enough. If it must still be machined then should I even bother buying the new plate since mine isnt damaged? Could I just have this one machined?



Lol well with a thin enough rope to ram down the spark plug hole im sure that would work fine.

With a replaceable plate your flywheel shouldn't need to be stepped because you are not machining away any surface material. And I would recommend replacing the plate unless it is practically brand new, it's just better to start with a fresh surface to seat the new clutch to.
 
With a replaceable plate your flywheel shouldn't need to be stepped because you are not machining away any surface material. And I would recommend replacing the plate unless it is practically brand new, it's just better to start with a fresh surface to seat the new clutch to.

ok, its not brand new. Its got about 15k on it.
 
Well I have decided since its tax season and im pulling the engine I might as well go forged rods and pistons. So now to my next question should I replace the headgasket? I am trying to avoid machining if at all possible and will be turning the boost up to about 30 psi once i get some better injectors. I was thinking acl tri metal bearings. Any more suggestions? This is my first time pulling the motor as well as the bottom end so any advice is appreciated.
 
you cant get by all the work without replacing the head gasket. headgaskets are usually one-time use meaning once you torque the head down thats "used" as it sank and crush into place.

putting a used headgasket back will most likely create leaks of all kinds without mentioning it will mess up the proper torque to the head studs
 
you cant get by all the work without replacing the head gasket. headgaskets are usually one-time use meaning once you torque the head down thats "used" as it sank and crush into place.

putting a used headgasket back will most likely create leaks of all kinds without mentioning it will mess up the proper torque to the head studs

Oh yea i know if i was going to pull the head that was gonna be necessary but i didnt plan on pulling it unless i had too. But after reading some info here i have come to accept that to do it right im going to have to have the bottom end balanced by a machine shop so if i go that far i might as well have the head and block decked and install a MLS gasket. Am I right?
 
Oh yea i know if i was going to pull the head that was gonna be necessary but i didnt plan on pulling it unless i had too. But after reading some info here i have come to accept that to do it right im going to have to have the bottom end balanced by a machine shop so if i go that far i might as well have the head and block decked and install a MLS gasket. Am I right?

you are only right if you do it right.
 
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