Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

[rayden]

ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.

 

[ninjaneonturtle]

stages are retarded because there's no universal breakdown of it, every manufacturer has a different torque # for stages. I'm going with the spec stage 3 [400wtq] and a fidanza flywheel, so I hope it turns out alright.

 

[1gDSM4g63]

Fidanza 4.3

 

[99gst_racer]

Fidanza 4.3 kit -OR- ACT 2600 with sprung hub 6-puck disk.

You don't need a 2900 pressure plate.

 

[Asimmons90GSX]

ACT 2600 with street disc...streetable clutch that WILL hold

 

[99gst_racer]

ACT 2600 with street disc...streetable clutch that WILL hold

AWD + 400 ft/lbs of torque + a street disk = bad.

At that power level, I would want to have a disk with a higher coefficient of heat, like a ceramic disk. A street disk wouldn't last long to any abuse.

 

[eclipsh]

So I'm trying to decide which clutch to go with:

South Bend TZ for about $265 plus shipping

A Centerforce dual friction clutch for $320 shipped from Amazon.com

Or build my own setup from Clutchnet.com for $262 shipped, yellow pressure plate and an sprung organic friction disc. I called and he says this setup will hold up to 400 ft/lb.

Any other suggestions or thoughts? Am I missing something? I'm leaning towards the Clutchnet.com setup. The pressure plate looks like an ACT but I couldn't say for certain. He said the pressure plate is about 2200 lbs.

 

[Street_Killer]

You could also check out fidanzas 3.2. It holds about 400ft/lbs. About that price range maybe a little less.

 

[twicks69]

Personally, I would use an ACT 2600 Pressure Plate with the South Bend Performance sprung kevlar disk (TZ disk) --

South Bend Eagle Eclipse-Talon Clutch Disks 95-99

$160 for the disk.

 

[project_tsi]

I would use a 2600 pp, with a clutchnet 6 puck ez lock sprung disk. This is THE BEST disk I have ever used. It is very very slip able and holds great. It engages almost as well as an organic disk.





http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=17803&cat=0&page=1

 

[twicks69]

I would use a 2600 pp, with a clutchnet 6 puck ez lock sprung disk. This is THE BEST disk I have ever used. It is very very slip able and holds great. It engages almost as well as an organic disk.

Wow...when I had my Clutchnet sprung 6-puck, it lasted 3200 miles, 5 transmissions, 2 fidanza friction surfaces, and a partridge in a pear tree. The wear pads were unevenly wearing and delaminating from the disk surface.

It was a slippable disk, but under daily street driving; especially stop & go driving, it would drastically change in its disengagement/engagement characteristics.

I went from this disk, TO the South Bend Clutch Kevlar Sprung disk and had excellent results; with much better street driving characteristics, along with better/more consistent street driving engagement/disengagement characteristics, and much longer life. It is equivilant in driving characteristics to a street organic disk under regular conditions, and grips like a 6-puck under a hard launch while remaining very slippable.

 

[project_tsi]

Well I haven't use a SB disk, so it may be much better than the CN unit, but that was my experience with it.

I have no comment on the SB unit.

 

[eclipsh]

Thanks for the feedback so far. I guess I should mention that I am an Auto-Xer and want to do road racing but have ZERO interest in drag racing so I won't be doing killer launches. This is my DD so I need a reliable clutch.

 

[twicks69]

a sprung 6-puck or the kevlar would be fine then. I still stand by the kevlar ONLY because it will be a more streetable clutch than the 6-puck.

 

[wret]

Spec 2+ is a great clutch. Light feel but holds firm. I don't think I every got any smoke from it.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I know your looking for suggestions or opinions here, just wanted to say that I can smoke my ACT 2100 (only has about 700 miles on it now) in my AWD with ease... I'd recommend a kevlar disc also with an ACT 2600 or even 2900 if you don't mind using some muscle, although it's not as bad as everyone makes it seem, you kind of get used to it (the 2900)

 

[project_tsi]

Tim, I see you are running the QM Twin disk setup. How do you like it? I'm thinking of picking one up this off season.

 

[twicks69]

I absolutely love it! Absolutely no problems over 39,000miles, 200+track passes, 150+dyno passes, and 2+years.

It was well worth the money, considering I haven't missed a shift since installation, and the engagement/disengagement qualities are fantastic. I can slip the hell out of it and it doesn't change characteristics whatsoever.

Still on the original set of friction disks, floater plates, pressure plate, etc.

Best of all the flywheel and clutch assembly only weighs in at 12 pounds!

 

[eclipsh]

Well, with the advice above: the yellow plate and carbon fiber disc from Clutchnet would cost $300 plus shipping. The Centerforce dual friction setup would be $320 shipped. So between these two which would you get?

Oh and the yellow plate from Clutchnet sure looks like it is the same as an ACT so I'm betting it that they are ACT's supplier. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[project_tsi]

I absolutely love it! Absolutely no problems over 39,000miles, 200+track passes, 150+dyno passes, and 2+years.

It was well worth the money, considering I haven't missed a shift since installation, and the engagement/disengagement qualities are fantastic. I can slip the hell out of it and it doesn't change characteristics whatsoever.

Still on the original set of friction disks, floater plates, pressure plate, etc.

Best of all the flywheel and clutch assembly only weighs in at 12 pounds!

Thats awesome Tim, exactly what I wanted to hear. Are you running an OE style TOB, or a conical TOB like the PTT unit? If you are using a OE style bearing, how much clearancing was required for the clutch fork? Also, is a pedal stop required?

Thanks again.

 

[eclipsh]

So I talked to South Bend and their TZ clutch will hold 325 ft/lb at the wheels reliably. I'm really not sure how much torque I'm making since I've never been dyno tested with my mods. I'm guessing somewhere up around 300 but I'd need some advice. Of course, at 7000+ feet in elevation I'll be making less too so I could probably use any of the choices listed.

 

[twicks69]

My TZ disk was holding close to 600 torque with my 2600 pressure plate no problems -- they are under-rated when using a 2600 pressure plate.

Also, Clutchnet isn't a supplier to ACT; they do get their parts from the same manufacturer though.

I have NO experience with the Clutchnet pressure plate, and you should really get the specific clamping pressure information from the manufacturer before making your purchase. As well, use a Mitsubishi brand Throw Out Bearing with the setup.



Project_Tsi -- I am using a Mitsu TOB, and had to grind down the clutch fork around 1/8" to clear everything. I will look to see if I took any pictures of the install with the clutch material removal measured. No pedal stop required -- it is just like any other clutch for our cars. I am using the 7.25" V-Drive with cerametallic puck disks, and a PTT chromoly flywheel with automatic flexplate (flywheel) bolts. Picked up the unit from Adam D. at Devotuning.



When making your final decision, please keep in mind that this clutch is a wearable item, and spending a little more in the first place will definitely help down the road when you replace the item the next time. I am still reccomending the ACT 2600PP with the sprung SBC kevlar disk from Horsepowerfreaks - the link that I attached in my earlier post.

 

[Atuca]

Hey, this has been beat into the ground probably a million times, but everyone's goals are different.

I am need to get a new clutch and disk, and flywheel (only want to drop the tranny once) I don't know what my exact goals are, but I want to plan for 450"ish" whp. However, as of now, 350 is alot more attainable as I have an evo 3 16g, and a walbro190. I think with injectors and a FMIC, I can get to the 300+ mark, and finaly, after a year with an eclipse, a 95 EPROM ECU will be heading my way, so DSMlink will be part of the build.

That being said, what clutch and flywheel do I need to go with. The 450 build would require the ACT 2900 according to FFtech, and assuming I am going for a 6 bolt engine and gt30R turbo, sounds reasonable. But without dropping 15k+ on a new engine, I can get 300+ I think with a good tune on my e316g.

So what clutch should i get, what disk should I get, and what flywheel?

I DD so trying to stay away form too much chatter, but I was thinking ACT2600, street disk, and a fidanza flywheel, maybe ACT2900 as apparently it has the same pedal pressure, but than there is risk of crankwalk on a 7 bolt.. so, opinions of people who have run a complete swap on both flywheel and clutch, not one or the other, please chime in, I am looking to hear how long they lasted under what driving conditions, and how satisfied you were and if you bought a second set.

Thanks!

 

[turbosax2]

What's your budget?

 

[kenamond]

ACT2900 and a street disk?

It doesn't cost $15k to build a 450hp longblock. You can start with a stock block and upgrade headstuds, HG, cams, IM, springs, etc. as you need them.

 

[spidy3]

I havent had good luck or liked the ACT or SBR clutches I had in my car. I recently put a Spec stage 3 clutch in and I am very happy with it. Gives the clutch pedal a close to stock feel and at same time grabs very good. It also doesnt put TOO MUCH pressure on the crank. mine is matched up with a act streetlight flywheel.

and my mods and direction were pretty much same as yours are.

hope that helps!